tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-60226466701474595112024-02-19T10:39:58.854-05:00Wood TrekkerRandom thoughts on axes, knives, axe use, woodworking, bushcraft, wilderness survival, camping, hiking, and gear review.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.comBlogger721125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-41950836866295465602016-12-27T09:35:00.001-05:002016-12-27T09:35:23.872-05:00Wood Trekker Update<p>Hey guys. I know I have been absent for a while. For those who have reached out in concern, no need to worry. Everything has been going great, I’ve just been too preoccupied to do much writing. </p> <p>The only subject of note is that I got married in October to my girlfriend of five years, Tara. </p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mwZmLrfO3ig/WGJ7-S-2TeI/AAAAAAAAQwc/tNyNwRT4Jdg/s1600-h/15135808_10108029027142109_7463475442633735685_n%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="15135808_10108029027142109_7463475442633735685_n" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="15135808_10108029027142109_7463475442633735685_n" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EyamUwVCMW8/WGJ7-1J8c7I/AAAAAAAAQwg/diyWK7gFcNo/15135808_10108029027142109_7463475442633735685_n_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="874"></a></p> <p>Together with the new house, things have been busy. There is always stupid stuff to do, like this 200 gallon rain catchment system…</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qWon9swpRYU/WGJ7_YZ3IZI/AAAAAAAAQwk/ypC1MGrXMJQ/s1600-h/20160911_164549%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="20160911_164549" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="20160911_164549" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s0CsluqfbB4/WGJ7_4sOsoI/AAAAAAAAQwo/0eTaNih629Y/20160911_164549_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="352"></a></p> <p>…which I use for my attempt at a small garden:</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZaZBYjRnYeg/WGJ8Ad0qktI/AAAAAAAAQws/DwB-LUrDLY0/s1600-h/20160612_131834%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="20160612_131834" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="20160612_131834" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fT3M9qOH0Ok/WGJ8BADHX3I/AAAAAAAAQww/XtJNXz6JZuY/20160612_131834_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="323"></a></p> <p>And of course, camping and such. Squirrel hunting with Rich:</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s4cvZGaItAE/WGJ8BtiTcMI/AAAAAAAAQw0/WEBr0MPmOEg/s1600-h/15197%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="15197" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="15197" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_1jipKuOMsA/WGJ8CAbVp4I/AAAAAAAAQw4/3NX5RZGhTAQ/15197_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="292"></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IPuDy-Ml1eA/WGJ8CzCJHjI/AAAAAAAAQw8/SYk-EsBJJa8/s1600-h/IMG_6607%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6607" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6607" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BSWRxpz_R0M/WGJ8DRM10sI/AAAAAAAAQxA/JyIaO7nkiXw/IMG_6607_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="330"></a></p> <p>Deer hunting, for which unfortunately I was lazy and missed opening weekend:</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2Te9TxTTeoI/WGJ8D5LA7qI/AAAAAAAAQxE/0sO7HmDBNVs/s1600-h/IMG_6693%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6693" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6693" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aNkUpNDTUEk/WGJ8EEMrNjI/AAAAAAAAQxI/VkPGzzw3Y-s/IMG_6693_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="308"></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GlqjR32ebqM/WGJ8EngYl9I/AAAAAAAAQxM/3XfY5nQQv00/s1600-h/IMG_6701%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6701" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6701" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7t3DIOvDftk/WGJ8E-yM_II/AAAAAAAAQxQ/oQfyEgNm4js/IMG_6701_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="299"></a></p> <p>And hanging out with a cool bunch of guys at Hawk Mountain, PA, half of whom are named Mike.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhAd05ok5Bip0MGkeICKU6-dIYdf04ZXwOn8iDdtHEZ9axAETBwQFnJEZ9otIIOCAmDw74Ug0FdaunZtDT9OHg-G2IS-mr7A2IYLdJ7-iNJPgnptinzJpUq79KM0KBxuajlfkD-L8iA0/s1600-h/IMG_6703%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6703" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6703" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z80WLvC0zrg/WGJ8GBAUJeI/AAAAAAAAQxY/QP6gnV16iJw/IMG_6703_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="299"></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aLFgqfWUdIo/WGJ8GnpVYDI/AAAAAAAAQxc/rA9EXofRDkk/s1600-h/IMG_6709%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6709" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6709" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jnkd955VwwE/WGJ8G5FTjDI/AAAAAAAAQxg/qQjoCpSX2kk/IMG_6709_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="234"></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AMctlBIOEzg/WGJ8HsrvT_I/AAAAAAAAQxk/l3ufb72hkf4/s1600-h/IMG_6711%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6711" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6711" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bOtIqxLIySo/WGJ8JG0rE5I/AAAAAAAAQxo/bmL6Hso7RfE/IMG_6711_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="265"></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1eVAMBAPdkM/WGJ8J1bIhRI/AAAAAAAAQxs/sc_58G3xs-M/s1600-h/IMG_6726%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6726" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6726" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LJAIE_y2ifg/WGJ8KNGTMvI/AAAAAAAAQxw/8T3UAR0z8ow/IMG_6726_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="308"></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qwp3Llzj2UY/WGJ8KhiJiuI/AAAAAAAAQx0/iGLBEUrCgGA/s1600-h/IMG_6734%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6734" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6734" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EABzkzIhCF4/WGJ8K-Lwo7I/AAAAAAAAQx4/W2K5OkoufJw/IMG_6734_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="330"></a></p> <p>That’s about it for now. Hopefully in the near future I’ll have some more time to get back to writing. </p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-73355630587252177092016-08-23T17:48:00.001-04:002016-08-24T16:42:27.482-04:00Why I No Longer Buy Under Armour Products<p>This post is an opinion piece, done to express my disappointment in Under Armour as a company and make clear my intention to stop purchasing any of their products.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DEm1deAqVTE/V7zErzCDmlI/AAAAAAAAQsc/s-UWJ_CfUEw/s1600-h/14089034_1826830357547171_8111186384916575256_n%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="14089034_1826830357547171_8111186384916575256_n" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="14089034_1826830357547171_8111186384916575256_n" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rZzZo92E4KA/V7zEsX4GUEI/AAAAAAAAQsg/bECKmYjtMaE/14089034_1826830357547171_8111186384916575256_n_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="593"></a></p> <p>For those of you not familiar with the controversy, it began when on June 5, 2016, Josh Bowmar, posted a YouTube video, showing him successfully hunting a bear with nothing but a spear. </p> <p>The hunt was conducted in Alberta Canada around May 15, 2016. By all accounts, the hunt was perfectly legal, and all appropriate permits were obtained and applicable regulations followed. </p> <p>The video has since been taken down due to death threats from “peace loving” animal rights activists, but it features the hunt, filmed by Josh Bowmar’s wife Sarah. The hunt took place in a forested area. A bait pile was used to lure the bear to the location. Bait piles are legal in some jurisdictions, and not in others, both in Canada and the US. It was legal in the area of this hunt. Bowmar, who was standing on the ground, waited until the bear was approximately 20 to 30 feet away from him (my approximation based on the video), and speared it with a spear which he threw at that distance. He registered a near perfect lung shot. Reportedly, the bear ran for about 60 to 70 yards before dying. </p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KSsiemT_lJ0/V7zEs5RfA7I/AAAAAAAAQsk/cJuk167S_eE/s1600-h/hunt%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="hunt" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="hunt" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5sbQ0jjNa7U/V7zEtTyz3DI/AAAAAAAAQso/ryo53al_AyA/hunt_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="330"></a></p> <p>By all measures, the hunt was legally and ethically conducted by a skilled and well trained and prepared hunter. </p> <p>Almost imediately, the usual uproar rose up from anti-hunting groups and people. Numerous of false facts were manufactured, including allegations that the bear was trapped, that it was a cub, that it was left to suffer for an extended period of time, etc., and hilariously, that Josh Bowmar is somehow a “coward” for facing a bear with nothing but a spear. </p> <p>Of course, none of that is accurate. The bear was legally hunted. It was not trapped. The animal died less than 70 yards from the area where it was speared. The bear was an adult, measuring 7.1 feet in length. For those not familiar with hunting, large game animals, particularly bear, rarely drop where they are shot, even when a high power rifle is used. The adrenaline rush typically propels them to run for a notable distance before collapsing. Under normal conditions, a hunter would not pursue immediately, but give the animal a chance to stop and die without being disturbed, only then beginning the tracking process. There is nothing in this hunt which would distinguish it in ethical terms from any other hunt, taking a bear with a bow or rifle, other than the melon-sized balls required to get that close to a bear with nothing but a spear. </p> <p>Anyway, all that was background for the actual reason for the post. </p> <p>Not long after the video went viral, an anti-hunting activist from Illinois started a Change.org petition, seeking to have Under Armour pull their sponsorship for Sarah Bowmar, Josh’s wife, who is a hunter in her own right. The petition gathered 4,000 signatures. </p> <p>Shockingly, Under Armour caved, and pulled their sponsorship, even openly condemning the hunt itself. </p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DwCzI60QhrY/V7zEttkbMDI/AAAAAAAAQss/GPfQTJFs4No/s1600-h/AvZwSIwIRsNkvLL-800x450-noPad%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="AvZwSIwIRsNkvLL-800x450-noPad" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="AvZwSIwIRsNkvLL-800x450-noPad" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_2z8lOp1WgA/V7zEuC8_bVI/AAAAAAAAQsw/4RX-d2ASFHQ/AvZwSIwIRsNkvLL-800x450-noPad_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="323"></a></p> <p>For those of you who do not hunt, Under Armour is a large producer of hunting gear. For that reason, their lack of loyalty to the hunting community and their speed in caving to anti-hunting lynch-mob mentality perpetrated by a small group of people who don’t know the first thing about hunting or conservation efforts, is alarming, disheartening, and deeply disappointing. </p> <p>For a company to punish the wife of a hunter because he conducted a legal and ethical hunt, in a manner which our ancestors used for millennia, is very upsetting to me. As such, I will no longer purchase any new Under Armour products. I encourage all people in the hunting community to do the same. </p> <p>I truly hope that hunters can come together on this issue. Unfortunately, as a community, we are horrible in terms of coming to each other’s defense, even in the most clear cut cases. We turn on each other at the drop of a hat, and in a desperate attempt to show the anti-hunters (or perhaps to convince ourselves) that we are one of the “good hunters” and gain their approval; we stab other hunters in the back. Everyone defends their chosen, specific style of hunting, and then dismisses every other style as “not real hunting”. <p>The irony of course is that anti-hunters couldn’t care less about how you hunt, how ethical you think you are, or how readily you sell out other hunters. They simply want an end to hunting because somehow, in their minds, it is more ethical to raise an animal in captivity and electrocute it to death on a production line, than to shoot a fully grown animal in the woods. Or, that chemically castrating whole populations of animal is morally superior to allowing sport hunting for conservation reasons. <p>The only good part of this most recent batch of contrived, flavor-of-the-week outrage, has been that anti-hunters have finally come full circle in their critique of hunting, revealing the disingenuous nature of the usual arguments that are levied against hunters. <p>See, typically, anti-hunters claim that they are outraged by the lack of sportsmanship when it comes to hunting. People who hunt with rifles are attacked because hunting with a rifle is too easy, and “real hunters” use a bow. Bow hunters are attacked because bow hunting is too easy, and if you were a “real hunter”, you would be going after the animal with a knife. Literally, a week ago I had that argument with a guy regarding wolf hunting, who was explaining to me that a “real hunter” would go after the wolf with a knife, because using a rifle is just extermination. Well, here we have a guy killing a bear with nothing but a spear, from about 20 feet away, on the ground. So, are those same people happy? Nope! Now all of a sudden, it turn out (according to them) that real hunters use rifles because it is more humane. Hmmm… <p>Of course, these are people who know nothing about hunting or conservation efforts. They don’t know the first thing about what it takes to complete a successful hunt, what it takes to kill an animal, or how to maintain a balanced ecosystem. Most importantly, they maintain their moral superiority by remaining willfully ignorant of the way their own food gets to their table, or how ecological balance is maintained. The arguments are disingenuous. They are just a tool designed to eliminate hunting. Thankfully, this hunt by Josh Bowmar, and subsequent contrived outrage, has brought that to light, more clearly than ever before. <p>I strongly believe that we as hunters, need to stop the Uncle Tom routine, exemplified by the disappointing actions of Under Armour, and come together as a community. </p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hrUlXlM-B18/V74Gry_U5WI/AAAAAAAAQtE/1xs7XlftoSs/s1600-h/ESaLgojhSYhExAU-800x450-noPad%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="ESaLgojhSYhExAU-800x450-noPad" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="ESaLgojhSYhExAU-800x450-noPad" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-epNytfmCOSg/V74GsrEAubI/AAAAAAAAQtI/ImkPJ40PCGQ/ESaLgojhSYhExAU-800x450-noPad_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="330"></a></p> <p>A Change.org petition has been started, asking for the reinstatement of the Bowmar sponsorship. It already has 7,627 signatures. You can view and sign the petition here: <a title="https://www.change.org/p/under-armour-bring-back-the-bowmar-s-demand-under-armour-to-quit-cowering-to-anti-hunters" href="https://www.change.org/p/under-armour-bring-back-the-bowmar-s-demand-under-armour-to-quit-cowering-to-anti-hunters">https://www.change.org/p/under-armour-bring-back-the-bowmar-s-demand-under-armour-to-quit-cowering-to-anti-hunters</a> Whether or not the petition has any effect, I have signed it because I believe in the message it sends. </p> <p>Lastly, big congratulations to Josh Bowmar for his impressive achievement. I have nothing but respect for anyone who is willing to face off with a bear holding nothing more thatn a spear. I am very happy for him, and wish him and Sarah many more successful hunts. </p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-64973208949698469542016-06-20T08:44:00.001-04:002016-06-20T08:44:31.968-04:00Trip Report: Classic Backpacking 6/18/16–6/19/16<p>As you guys saw in my last post, I’ve been doing a bunch of fishing on my more recent trips. I have also been doing some Clasic Backpacing. I haven’t posted much about the trips because they are fairly standard. The challenging ones were during winter, but now that the weather is nice, they are pretty standard, evin with century old gear. In case anyone is followign though, here is one from last weekend.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FhZzEWQWN0M/V2fk_iFrFGI/AAAAAAAAQpY/7s3RgYcnD3k/s1600-h/IMG_6298%252520-%252520Copy%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6298 - Copy" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6298 - Copy" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uG43s_6NRZo/V2flAZ0PU-I/AAAAAAAAQpg/PTQp86DwW_w/IMG_6298%252520-%252520Copy_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="323"></a></p> <p>It was a very warm day. Temperture was supposed to be up around 85F (29C). I figured it would stay warm enough for me to bring Rhea along. It’s hard to bring her when it’s cold because I can’t keep her int he blanket with me, like I do when I’m carrying a sleeping bag. </p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_7bBNy5JjQQ/V2flBHz6eBI/AAAAAAAAQpo/6qoRSZ_5NmI/s1600-h/IMG_6301%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6301" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6301" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j5xxtcXHTr4/V2flBipH_1I/AAAAAAAAQpw/PEhyC6ea3sk/IMG_6301_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="296"></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9tEkFnaio1c/V2flCIAHL1I/AAAAAAAAQp4/2zQzgNWwOzs/s1600-h/IMG_6306%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6306" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6306" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5R5uwz4YfgA/V2flD2qnPWI/AAAAAAAAQqA/qxhZAecGOP0/IMG_6306_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="330"></a></p> <p>This particular route required a lot of climbing. It was a quick ascent to above the tree line, and a bit down in elevation to the area where I wanted to camp.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i8uLWK9Zdlw/V2flErBx22I/AAAAAAAAQqI/ggYwMqlfIzw/s1600-h/IMG_6314%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6314" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6314" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RILBa-vSlCM/V2flE1_g-uI/AAAAAAAAQqQ/ZkPid58zAjY/IMG_6314_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="267"></a></p> <p>For my summer Classic Backpacking trips, I’ve decided to wear cotton clothing. I had on a cotton shirt and corduroy pants. Reading through original sources, it appears that they wore wool year round, but it’s not practical for me. It is just too warm, and if you get some thinner wool clothing, it wears out way too quickly. </p> <p>In the early afternoon, I reached my destination. I took my time setting up camp.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lSbkyNZA6ZA/V2flGaPvA8I/AAAAAAAAQqY/t_FL16UkmlY/s1600-h/IMG_6332%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6332" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6332" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C_AHXoFj4aA/V2flGv_1x4I/AAAAAAAAQqc/NQeZBlcy2Vg/IMG_6332_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="316"></a></p> <p>The tarp was mostly there for the shade. I didn’t make any type of brush pile for under the blanket. I didn’t need the insulation, and it doesn’t bother me sleeping on a hard surface. </p> <p>The big benefit of doing Classic Backpacking in warm weather is that you save huge amount sof time both building a sleeping surface, as well as gathering fire wood to keep you warm through the night. </p> <p>The down side however is water. I’m trying to keep true to the primary sources, and while writers like Kephart mention the existance of rubber bladders for water storage, and several of them talk about canteen, many carried no water storage at all, or just a single canteen, as I am doing. I have to say, they must have been very limited with respect to the terrain were they could travel. In this type of weather, I wanted to be far away from water sources, as well as higher in elevation. It’s the only way to survive the mosquitoes and the humidity. That however, combined with my single water bottle, necessitated that I make two lengthy trips down the mountain to a water source. I then had to boil it, which wasn’t fun in the heat.</p> <p>The water trips took up most of the day. I used the time to check out the blueberry bushes in the area. Another month and they should be ready.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v_fDvFVvQl4/V2flHFoiNoI/AAAAAAAAQqk/_gpqXC31aHw/s1600-h/IMG_6310%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6310" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuwJR5_dyuN16AspvnBx49TnmbTBMx0QgSWDYzgQLiGB_JNcqZV3Q4th-2UgKha6HtAYnO9S347qmNkILLA3yWvIApZRFShtNxg8dlb2yo2seJ2qX0ht0_fTXNeupAgRdKcDo8yfUb1t0/?imgmax=800" width="584" height="301"></a></p> <p>I was also lucky to spot a turkey. A month too late, and it appeared to be a hen, but still, it’s rare that I can get close enough to one to take a picture.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SVnWKmP1uj4/V2flIf2YFgI/AAAAAAAAQq0/Mb-O5S06F1U/s1600-h/IMG_6381%252520-%252520Copy%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6381 - Copy" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6381 - Copy" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tUz9pNqjM48/V2flI3mJD-I/AAAAAAAAQq8/E6NT9gkXNLs/IMG_6381%252520-%252520Copy_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="277"></a></p> <p>I kept the fire small; just enought to boil the water. </p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrLSzjRMFsoosP7_TfTdhA83xVfLIFlXNuO3sUPY_pdV1sxPzoTydPVBVc-NKMTqXt3AigLPtc3abhBvXgd7D-BVio5ny1Zl1qjz-mbxzhMBLLGfu6k2JQpM4Y5yOLqjzXbki0RFo34rI/s1600-h/IMG_6346%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6346" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6346" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8dIdnzV1hIA/V2flKF6apRI/AAAAAAAAQrM/9TgQ3lq8WO4/IMG_6346_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="306"></a></p> <p>I fell asleep on top of the blanket. During the night however I got a bit chilled and had to toss it over me. I didn’t do the usual wrap, but just folded it over me. The night was short, and I got up bright and early.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4YfPDpWiWOQ/V2flKTMX2sI/AAAAAAAAQrQ/-1Kpjo7W470/s1600-h/IMG_6370%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6370" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6370" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--eaW5NZO98s/V2flKwVzWLI/AAAAAAAAQrY/QnC84R_F3os/IMG_6370_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="330"></a></p> <p>I packed up and headed back. I tried to make my way down the moutnain before the heat really kicked up. </p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xk5mbFgFzeQ/V2flLbkC2nI/AAAAAAAAQrg/mKevZV3pmiE/s1600-h/IMG_6321%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="IMG_6321" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_6321" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NZRBhYK2d2s/V2flL8VuUKI/AAAAAAAAQro/BxLmR245SYg/IMG_6321_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="258"></a></p> <p>So, that’s that. A pretty uneventful trip. It’s how they have been lately. The weather has been very forgiving. </p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-63281604439143366702016-04-27T16:57:00.002-04:002016-04-27T16:57:59.632-04:00What Has Wood Trekker Been Up To?Hey guys. I know I haven’t posted in a while. Nothing to worry about. I’ve
just been very busy with work. I still go out on my usual trips, I just haven’t
had time to write about them. It is a very time consuming process. <br />
<br />
This past month I have mostly been focusing on trout fishing. I’ve been
hitting the local spots with some friends. <br />
<br />
<br />
Lower end of the Neversink River:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmhRoy0YHQGVONwQLWlSeYxCCdBMTuOm4DkZwzyrKcRCmemV93j83VOHfI8Iz5xlQSppIxVZ6v7fVYV5x0vpt5yIJkhDQMNvND3UQfQ9oZSGusvKxvNEPcQxCSC_8LA-erzH5C0gk0FSk/s1600/IMG_6051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmhRoy0YHQGVONwQLWlSeYxCCdBMTuOm4DkZwzyrKcRCmemV93j83VOHfI8Iz5xlQSppIxVZ6v7fVYV5x0vpt5yIJkhDQMNvND3UQfQ9oZSGusvKxvNEPcQxCSC_8LA-erzH5C0gk0FSk/s640/IMG_6051.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphengUKoxPRB5HGm1M4TwYcBW53DhJ1UCckJY_gsRSOQ1HM1xMm3ohGABtYVqgqgfdmSns4CCqCk1TKjxqDGR585tT_2aKAcO9SBbDmINdgVzgWaURXUXVnqVsy0GEP_4C_SlsVzwpGdmw/s1600/IMG_6072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphengUKoxPRB5HGm1M4TwYcBW53DhJ1UCckJY_gsRSOQ1HM1xMm3ohGABtYVqgqgfdmSns4CCqCk1TKjxqDGR585tT_2aKAcO9SBbDmINdgVzgWaURXUXVnqVsy0GEP_4C_SlsVzwpGdmw/s640/IMG_6072.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUIM1a_BX9gI7xKeUrjjhYKsl59mzViBfRnuH_enX1RbjcibSVXnzXz8_3jNN2EkIVumIzRQLm6lvleuC8Hlev6G3Kjb15sO2UlKqBRNcM8r2kNdYJV_5skSuv-SJw9Jc0t2G5nj7lzlk/s1600/IMG_6075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUIM1a_BX9gI7xKeUrjjhYKsl59mzViBfRnuH_enX1RbjcibSVXnzXz8_3jNN2EkIVumIzRQLm6lvleuC8Hlev6G3Kjb15sO2UlKqBRNcM8r2kNdYJV_5skSuv-SJw9Jc0t2G5nj7lzlk/s640/IMG_6075.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOXKHfiYqqHbiAv60k-5UuSuyo7ZSyDRoJB41qgyXmeV8CSeUVsVnUku6wJope-5Tn5wfqUaksSRW441GFJaDp4zj3eFoMd993uY7SLhi95u4Z46dsQAmUWnRKDfIrROu39zgC8eIY1bY/s1600/IMG_6106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOXKHfiYqqHbiAv60k-5UuSuyo7ZSyDRoJB41qgyXmeV8CSeUVsVnUku6wJope-5Tn5wfqUaksSRW441GFJaDp4zj3eFoMd993uY7SLhi95u4Z46dsQAmUWnRKDfIrROu39zgC8eIY1bY/s640/IMG_6106.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpybRhES6Sw-MpXpytV34JMHSFLAghyphenhyphenwBBzEIzPlbqPiNAKWW275N4N7puUnpazaHGce2DV6jxw-AzObvrCmh3MvNwJEVUsNmiy0RGLOW5uaqt8ouLrNzBJAP4FpzQ3XB-Lj36OFtJsQU/s1600/IMG_6152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpybRhES6Sw-MpXpytV34JMHSFLAghyphenhyphenwBBzEIzPlbqPiNAKWW275N4N7puUnpazaHGce2DV6jxw-AzObvrCmh3MvNwJEVUsNmiy0RGLOW5uaqt8ouLrNzBJAP4FpzQ3XB-Lj36OFtJsQU/s640/IMG_6152.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
The Ramapo River:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9UmTeh_ePRqUr9lffDNkhrcJpzOCpg7ocNZXEEe14LrS3dL8pgHYIHdtREPRqA-k8u1Od_VEl05Ia_0QaFwFMSTyNZM221tzEcskWKvDj3pthTTMMpaPVT0dpjQ7WMX5J0PU1AUf5dFY/s1600/IMG_6161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9UmTeh_ePRqUr9lffDNkhrcJpzOCpg7ocNZXEEe14LrS3dL8pgHYIHdtREPRqA-k8u1Od_VEl05Ia_0QaFwFMSTyNZM221tzEcskWKvDj3pthTTMMpaPVT0dpjQ7WMX5J0PU1AUf5dFY/s640/IMG_6161.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQOKKpB_DA8DlwB00QJIR8AJNi1Xg42wIguQMhBCJXt_JKj-AOLTnsdP7aT1Mvz1XohPRt5YBOqCCD6PFugXfYwEbdealPhGumT1JJ65QekOFiXfRL-6XQ0oEfz-BSz0hjOM7WzWlp5U/s1600/IMG_6159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQOKKpB_DA8DlwB00QJIR8AJNi1Xg42wIguQMhBCJXt_JKj-AOLTnsdP7aT1Mvz1XohPRt5YBOqCCD6PFugXfYwEbdealPhGumT1JJ65QekOFiXfRL-6XQ0oEfz-BSz0hjOM7WzWlp5U/s640/IMG_6159.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
West branch of the Croton River:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6OnnuCH-Y8nSCQXf5g_WXg7z_heLPMhhV0Bm3jBFGLWPNUTBa2JDB0fJWdqV6KiXPBrpxfx8Bw_yReIJyH3UbjpLTFHiGReb2pZ69nffdBeMrNn2H9ryEbjURImU_RaMK1EyCXwb3SWc/s1600/IMG_6188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6OnnuCH-Y8nSCQXf5g_WXg7z_heLPMhhV0Bm3jBFGLWPNUTBa2JDB0fJWdqV6KiXPBrpxfx8Bw_yReIJyH3UbjpLTFHiGReb2pZ69nffdBeMrNn2H9ryEbjURImU_RaMK1EyCXwb3SWc/s640/IMG_6188.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJICxsWQSSII6OSt9ZKqLSoqpKB5OxVkbjj-37z_v_wu33iDEvfdGmC38wHDeqYgrucWeCaWDxzlFijZ8Urmpc_BD8Rz6cjIf3Ug3fbJNRo02X2-FWbvw0Fz93lgvaEux4JNlV9qXop_s/s1600/IMG_6210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJICxsWQSSII6OSt9ZKqLSoqpKB5OxVkbjj-37z_v_wu33iDEvfdGmC38wHDeqYgrucWeCaWDxzlFijZ8Urmpc_BD8Rz6cjIf3Ug3fbJNRo02X2-FWbvw0Fz93lgvaEux4JNlV9qXop_s/s640/IMG_6210.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPPB2dWvKTaRfFezbnGZyk1HuNI7waiSPaL4vc1VqdcTknG66XmVRJtzrYPSQeNGTqdIhH15lRcJB68yFz61JM_0LyL7mx9La2tn25TKWx4aksqwYAw6HickY9Pc84sfIbxPr4v1le_z4/s1600/IMG_6262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPPB2dWvKTaRfFezbnGZyk1HuNI7waiSPaL4vc1VqdcTknG66XmVRJtzrYPSQeNGTqdIhH15lRcJB68yFz61JM_0LyL7mx9La2tn25TKWx4aksqwYAw6HickY9Pc84sfIbxPr4v1le_z4/s640/IMG_6262.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGV8ImWpyQ0iwQh6yTk_6IzCdYHx6StDyTneBBW-lkVMpI5A9ciJl9dGjdT8OoaXqsPHQV0e34OAL8RXls3fE97tzxUTNJs-7plQ36Sfbud34hzZ0hZzpmTgrNqhW9T5kxHr5S_Km7fw/s1600/IMG_6248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGV8ImWpyQ0iwQh6yTk_6IzCdYHx6StDyTneBBW-lkVMpI5A9ciJl9dGjdT8OoaXqsPHQV0e34OAL8RXls3fE97tzxUTNJs-7plQ36Sfbud34hzZ0hZzpmTgrNqhW9T5kxHr5S_Km7fw/s640/IMG_6248.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnYUNm7fE6Kuhlm-qfqzYfTNPJnbbZQveeWfMMeGugd95Jn0lGnQXzJpyy4Mc14CPst69IEaxoOw8VnZv7gvfFJk0-6vZi85CbiIR48xdqO0F-9iDOA_yTpSJHGaaWrJjGdHOrsGIgVKY/s1600/IMG_6253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnYUNm7fE6Kuhlm-qfqzYfTNPJnbbZQveeWfMMeGugd95Jn0lGnQXzJpyy4Mc14CPst69IEaxoOw8VnZv7gvfFJk0-6vZi85CbiIR48xdqO0F-9iDOA_yTpSJHGaaWrJjGdHOrsGIgVKY/s640/IMG_6253.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnRcQY4V4Fb_JKqi_ZklvlvbJSHZh1pdGYJmAZj4YHSJZFPrf2prObhQVYv2-Zn3cQy4osaGzVI23dzAmnlCH4ud7g9nx-blXy-yCAg3eNP5GbGu8-ZatxkfbLjL0K5LqjOQnDRCoVx9A/s1600/IMG_6250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnRcQY4V4Fb_JKqi_ZklvlvbJSHZh1pdGYJmAZj4YHSJZFPrf2prObhQVYv2-Zn3cQy4osaGzVI23dzAmnlCH4ud7g9nx-blXy-yCAg3eNP5GbGu8-ZatxkfbLjL0K5LqjOQnDRCoVx9A/s640/IMG_6250.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
Even though water levels have been low, fishing has been half decent. I hope
to get some more free time soon, so I can start writing posts again.
Unfortunately, they are more time consuming than the trips themselves.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-47353943942893296352016-03-08T16:40:00.003-05:002016-03-08T16:40:54.333-05:00Classic Backpacking Gear: StovesThe issue of stoves when it comes to <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a> can be a bit complex.
The reason is that we have to look not only at the options available at the
time, but also at how and if they were used.<br />
<br />
In this post I want to discuss the use of small stoves which would be portable
in a backpack by a single person. The sources are very limited with respect to
such devices. While stoves are indeed discussed at length, the discussions are
almost exclusively regarding large wood burning stoves designed to heat tents,
and which would be transported by pack train. There are however some small
segments, and some peripheral sources which can give us usable information.<br />
<br />
It appears that in the early parts of the classic backpacking period, the
preferred backpacking stove was an alcohol burner. In the source materials they
are typically referred to as spirit burners or spirit lamps. The below
advertisement for a Gogau alcohol stove was featured in the 1904 Hardware
Dealers' Magazine, Volume 22. The J. Picard & Co Spirit Burner circa 1873
and the W.J.D. Mast Alcohol Lamp circa 1896 are also good examples of small,
portable alcohol stoves. Officer mess kits containing a similar alcohol stove
were popular during WWI. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbn1fcpTm5VFaH8iRJKvRDPZTVrc5f0PRqPJsrOSyDiSO6VzkD-QcbOiGs8_O0CLofpFVpQxFiYOxBJav9VUy9tdANdKy2rQ3enKMPg-tdi_WPxfa637winEfwxgCtAO2VZ8Uo1SeZQmk/s1600/Glogau+Stove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbn1fcpTm5VFaH8iRJKvRDPZTVrc5f0PRqPJsrOSyDiSO6VzkD-QcbOiGs8_O0CLofpFVpQxFiYOxBJav9VUy9tdANdKy2rQ3enKMPg-tdi_WPxfa637winEfwxgCtAO2VZ8Uo1SeZQmk/s640/Glogau+Stove.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
While open burner designs like the ones we see most often today, as well as
pressurized versions like the one seen above were available in one form or
another, the preferred configuration appears to have been ones using a wick.
I’ve reached this conclusion based on the limited descriptions provided by
Edward Whymper, Fridrjof Nansen, and Warren Miller. It is possible that other
models were in wide spread use, but I have not been able to find any references.<br />
<br />
“<em>The spirit-lamp was lighted, and the remaining spirits of wine, the brandy
and some snow were heated by it. It made a strong liquor, but we only wished for
more of it. When that was over, Macdonald endeavored to dry his socks by the
lamp, and then the three lay down under my plaid to pretend to sleep.”
</em>Edward Whymper, Scrambles Amongst the Alps, 1872 p.26<br />
<br />
“<em>For fuel there is, no doubt, nothing at all comparable with alcohol, which
should be as pure as possible. In addition to other advantages, such as its
cleanliness, it has the great merit of yielding more heat than anything else in
comparison to its weight… At the bottom is the heating-chamber, containing a
spirit-lamp with several wicks. The air enters by a number of holes at the
bottom in sufficient quantity to insure complete combustion, and, as it must
itself pass through or near the flames, it is either consumed or heated to such
an extent that no cold air can enter the apparatus. Should it be necessary,
owing to the overheating of the lamp, to let some cold air in, this can be done
by holes in the sides of the hot chamber… Experiments made after our return home
showed me that our cooker made use of only 52 per cent, of the alcohol consumed.
This is, of course, a somewhat extravagant use of fuel, though previous
expeditions do not seem to have been much more successful. Yet there is no doubt
that further improvements in this direction will lead to a considerable
reduction in the consumption of spirit</em>.” Fridtjof Nansen, The First
Crossing of Greenland, 1890 p.36-38<br />
<br />
The above quotes indicate that up to the 1890s, alcohol stoves, and in
particular stoves which used a wick to burn the alcohol, were used by climbers
as well as polar explorers. The preference for wick based stoves over other
burners which rely on vaporizing the fuel, is hinted at by Kephart on a later
date: “<em>In this instance it is an alcohol burner of common pad form, which is
less likely to get out of order than an alcohol vapor stove</em>.” Horace
Kephart, Featherweight Camping in England, 1914<br />
<br />
In 1892 however, a new stove design entered wide scale use, the Primus Kerosene
Stove No.1. While it was not the first kerosene stove, the Primus stoves quickly
gained popularity, and quickly started to replace alcohol stoves. The change is
exemplified by the writings of Fridtjof Nansen, who in the span of only few
years went from using an alcohol stove for his cold weather expeditions, to
using a Primus stove. The below advertisement from 1897 references as this being
the stove used by “Nansen the Explorer”.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNMza_y5Zcj8jqNxZyOt9Il17YHxLhTblDFviDUsEMoQ4bpLW8ipEmDIthrBAcbQiid-irPudZSVqWLh5IsykV2qcMZRUQRtZTRddBVLUVNoPh4s8lTb3eSYGtjOCKfD8HJ2DCRcMCa70/s1600/1230317840-primus_1897+-+Copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNMza_y5Zcj8jqNxZyOt9Il17YHxLhTblDFviDUsEMoQ4bpLW8ipEmDIthrBAcbQiid-irPudZSVqWLh5IsykV2qcMZRUQRtZTRddBVLUVNoPh4s8lTb3eSYGtjOCKfD8HJ2DCRcMCa70/s640/1230317840-primus_1897+-+Copy.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>For the heating was used a Swedish gas-petroleum lamp, known as 'the
Primus,' in which the heat turns the petroleum into gas before it is consumed.
By this means it renders the combustion unusually complete. Numerous experiments
made by Professor Torup at his laboratory proved that the cooker in ordinary
circumstances yielded 90 to 93 per cent. of the heat which the petroleum
consumed should, by combustion, theoretically evolve. A more satisfactory
result, I think, it would be difficult to obtain… Together with two tin mugs,
two tin spoons, and a tin ladle, it weighed exactly 8lbs. 3ozs., while the lamp,
the "Primus," weighed 1lb 12oz.</em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em>As fuel, my choice this time fell on petroleum ("snow-flake".) Alcohol,
which has generally been used before on Arctic expeditions, has several
advantages, and, in particular, is easy to burn. One decided drawback to it,
however, is the fact that it does not by any means generate as much heat in
comparison with its weight as petroleum when the latter is entirely consumed, as
was the case with the lamp used by us. As I was afraid that petroleum might
freeze, I had a notion of employing gas-oil, but gave up the idea, as it escapes
so easily that it is difficult to preserve, and is, moreover, very explosive. We
had no difficulties with our "snowflake" petroleum on account of the
cold.</em><em>”</em> Fridtjof Nansen, Farthest North Volume II, 1897 p.113</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This early use of the Primus stove however was not exactly the backpacking
application I am interested in here. The Primus No.1 stove is relatively heavy,
and is better suited to group use, in particular when carried by sled as it was
by Nansen, Shackleton, Scott, and Amundsen. Below you see such a stove used
circa 1911 together with a “Nansen Cooker”, a pot system designed to maximize
the use of the produced heat. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMELRrObta4ucg9PRnX2von_yAhCo1WqGHA8Uzqs-IazmG7Lu6Uo5D1JeGnn0kFwGzYQrt8diaMcZi3apzE4G-H5YG6B-vIkxsnuBhQGBeKUY5O12VzS_a0CzcFpZMYSxxtezSr4TrVlY/s1600/1911+stove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMELRrObta4ucg9PRnX2von_yAhCo1WqGHA8Uzqs-IazmG7Lu6Uo5D1JeGnn0kFwGzYQrt8diaMcZi3apzE4G-H5YG6B-vIkxsnuBhQGBeKUY5O12VzS_a0CzcFpZMYSxxtezSr4TrVlY/s640/1911+stove.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Portable models started to emerge in the early 1900s. From what I understand,
T.H. Holding used a specially modified Primus No.230, which could be carried on
a bicycle. He called it the Baby Primus. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginPMXq0zEZgTEyvJPI80cczhcQtosFjVuBAOwJNvYdVFjMGMGdGGtSBdbjHzY8WeTl0CQcW7kC1KgBdEhvuZ2uSyh_cPXuY3KYsVp6H_yd5BPqXUrDuyuW8MEqoZSkxjfz9JxxhGTsmA/s1600/Baby+Primus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginPMXq0zEZgTEyvJPI80cczhcQtosFjVuBAOwJNvYdVFjMGMGdGGtSBdbjHzY8WeTl0CQcW7kC1KgBdEhvuZ2uSyh_cPXuY3KYsVp6H_yd5BPqXUrDuyuW8MEqoZSkxjfz9JxxhGTsmA/s640/Baby+Primus.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Why I was so slow to take up the "Primus" for Camping purposes, was because
of my hatred of paraffin. Experiments, begun fifteen years ago, both at home and
Sunbury Camp, showed what a powerful and efficient thing it was, but too big to
carry on a cycle. It took me three years to get a smaller size — 5-ins. across —
made, and then it had projecting legs. So I devised a second model and had the
feet set right underneath, the projecting pump shortened, and changed the valve
from the side to the top, christening it the " Baby Primus," which is the best
of all the "Primus" models. Still pursuing my Spartan notions re compactness,
space and solid packing, I designed the "So-Soon" pans for taking the "Primus"
stove inside. This, of course, for cycling… </em><em>I unhesitatingly say that
the "Primus" in its revised form, with these beautiful light pans, is the most
efficient and suitable stove in the world for the average camper.”</em> Thomas
Hiram Holding, The Camper’s Handbook, 1908 p.310-311</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
However, in my opinion, a truly portable, commercially available, kerosene stove
did not come about until circa 1908, with the Primus No.96. It had a half pint
capacity, and weighed 1lb 1.2oz (on my scale, without additional items). </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Even so, the use of backpacking stoves remained extremely limited, especially in
the US. References in the texts of the time are rare, and the average woodsman
had no reason to use a stove rather than a fire. This attitude about backpacking
stoves is exemplified by Horace Kephart when writing about the gear of T.H.
Holding. “<em>Since the English camper can seldom use wood for fuel, he is
obliged to carry a miniature stove and some alcohol or kerosene</em>.” Horace
Kephart, Featherweight Camping in England, 1914</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Until the mid 1950s, with the introduction of the Svea 123 and similar models
like the Primus No.71, the use of backpacking stoves was largely reserved for
people who traveled to areas where it was impossible to make a fire. In the US
that was restricted to climbing above the tree line and arctic exploration,
while in Europe stoves appear to have been more widely used, especially when
camping in more populated areas. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, where does that leave us when it comes to the use of backpacking stoves when
trying to do Classic Backpacking? To me, it appears that the use of backpacking
stoves was reserved for times when it was not possible to make a fire. It seems
the woodsmen of the time would rather use a fire whenever possible, and I
imagine the average woodsman of the Classic Backpacking period might have never
seen a portable stove of the type discussed here. However, backpacking stoves
were available, and they were used when needed. In the US, where fire wood was
abundant, the use was reserved for climbing and arctic exploration, while in
Europe, where I imagine the use of fire was more restricted in some areas, the
stoves had greater popularity. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As such, I would say that when doing Classic Backpacking, a portable stove does
have it’s place. To be period correct, one would want to primarily rely on a
fire, but when that is not possible due to restrictions or unavailability of
wood, it would be proper to pull out the stove. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With respect to the actual stove designs, the choices would be either an alcohol
stove, with a preference for a wick based design, or a kerosene stove. Warren
Miller gives a good summary and description of the options: </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>For work above timber-line, the camp-fire takes the form of a spirit or
kerosene lamp. Denatured alcohol, or just plain kerosene, costing a tenth as
much; both have one-hole and two-hole blue-flame burners available in light,
folding explorer's stoves. The kerosene-burners work on the principle of the
familiar gasolene plumber's torch, a little raw kerosene first being ignited to
heat the burner, after which the affair is self-vaporizing, and the height of
the flame is then controllable with a needle-valve. With these burners is
supplied a sheet-iron radiating drum for tent-warming, after the cooking is
done, and this drum serves as a packing-case for the lamp and its special
kerosene-can when on the trail. With denatured alcohol the process is even
simpler, the burner simply being lighted, when the hot blue flame of alcohol
vapor is at once available, and, of course, it gives many more heat-units per
pound of fuel than kerosene.</em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em>A rig similar to these which a friend of mine uses on his one-man hikes is
nothing in the world but a short, extra-fat candle with a big wick, the only
other apparatus besides the candle being a sheet-iron collar or spider, on which
the bowl or frying-pan rests, held by it a short distance above the flame. A
similar apparatus using solidified alcohol is on the market and gives much more
heat for the weight carried.”</em> Warren Hastings Miller, Camp Craft, 1915
p.93-94</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hlky9QlWtNyfwiNe2OJcJJn68kTkFSBfJZDV_Pdx7wVP1VZUGpOufMFFfwl_OG4bHx5-e8fRkeGv4eo23jJNSsHnhD-G_KnR947BBk_bO8xipG8ATxeMyjf9YwrLW9BDVBSCEiAqevk/s1600/IMG_5982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hlky9QlWtNyfwiNe2OJcJJn68kTkFSBfJZDV_Pdx7wVP1VZUGpOufMFFfwl_OG4bHx5-e8fRkeGv4eo23jJNSsHnhD-G_KnR947BBk_bO8xipG8ATxeMyjf9YwrLW9BDVBSCEiAqevk/s640/IMG_5982.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Above you see a picture of what I consider two good examples of backpacking
stoves from the Classic Backpacking period. One is a kerosene burning Primus
No.96 (left), and the other is a wick based alcohol stove (right).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It may be tempting to just pull out a Trangia Stove, especially since the
Trangia Company was established in 1925, within the Classic Backpacking period,
but unfortunately, Trangia did not start making alcohol stoves until the 1950s.
More accurate designs, either just open burners, or wick based burners can be
found on eBay, or made at home. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
With respect to kerosene stoves, the choices are tougher. The best approach
would be to find an old kerosene stove like a Primus and restore it, like I did
with mine. I will do a separate post on doing a basic restoration. The Primus
No.96 was produced all the way through the 1960s. While there are small
variations between different years, the design was functionally the
same. Unfortunately, that is not a project everyone wants to undertake. A decent
alternative would be to purchase a new Svea 123 stove. They have some
significant differences from the early kerosene stoves, but are the closest I
have found on the market today. <br />
<br />
I'm certainly not a "stove guy", so this has been just a very brief overview of stoves for Classic Backpacking. I'm sure there are many other options available and approaches you can take.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-17145632307136938252016-02-15T12:43:00.000-05:002016-02-16T08:37:59.511-05:00Trip Report: Classic Backpacking 2/13/16 - 2/14/16"<i>Happiness is the struggle towards a summit and, when it is attained, it is happiness to glimpse new summits on the other side.</i>" Fridtjof Nansen<br />
<br />
Last weeks outing was uneventful, so I decided to skip the trip report, but this
past weekend we lucked out with some actual winter weather, so I figured the
trip would be worth shearing. I also wanted to test the limits of my current
Classic Backpacking sleep system, and I figured this would do it.<br />
<br />
I started out early in the morning. The temperature when I left the house
was –7F (-22C).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYostpG_mvULJVrYtb6AwEmXBXcFQR_-bdOsUsyAQFZvYUwAA2xNmtl9TOUGZC-f_qGpaPRH8ydRzRj4DgtvLJDuxFpEwpUQ7y-Pk4Bes0eZoRDyyMco3Q3Wfe7pEBlzU3in2tgqhNSuk/s1600/IMG_5706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYostpG_mvULJVrYtb6AwEmXBXcFQR_-bdOsUsyAQFZvYUwAA2xNmtl9TOUGZC-f_qGpaPRH8ydRzRj4DgtvLJDuxFpEwpUQ7y-Pk4Bes0eZoRDyyMco3Q3Wfe7pEBlzU3in2tgqhNSuk/s640/IMG_5706.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It always sneaks up on you how quickly you can overheat in temperatures this
low. Your instinct tends to be to wear as much clothing as possible, but once
you start moving, you heat up very quickly. I was wearing my base layer, my wool
“vest”, and my crew neck sweater with the anorak on top. It was very windy, so I
needed the shell, but had to be move slowly so I wouldn’t overheat. One problem
with this clothing system is that it’s annoying to layer up and down.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The temperature gradually went up during the day, reaching –3F (-19C) in the
early afternoon. My bushwhacking took me near a small lake. I’ve done some some
trapping there in previous years, and sign was all over the place.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1iure2N4QzT14o5Iq3QWv-XUukDlDdy8rUDGghz6vnoJYfz9EH9SoiunEkXFyDSGufsvXK2EW2V7-K2fA6mSN_r7VqHrv-SHg8t9Ir4GmgTEn5piy9GhSC17SpfrEW75lR_pw2QA3OI/s1600/IMG_5712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1iure2N4QzT14o5Iq3QWv-XUukDlDdy8rUDGghz6vnoJYfz9EH9SoiunEkXFyDSGufsvXK2EW2V7-K2fA6mSN_r7VqHrv-SHg8t9Ir4GmgTEn5piy9GhSC17SpfrEW75lR_pw2QA3OI/s640/IMG_5712.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Unfortunately I haven’t had much time to do it this year because I’ve been
messing around with this Classic Backpacking thing.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I moved away from the lake, and up a small mountain, but not before punching
through some thin ice near the edge of the lake. My left leg briefly submerged
up to about six inches above my ankle. I quickly blotted it with snow, but my
pant leg froze solid, and stayed that way until I got the fire going later in
the day.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A I have been doing recently, I stopped early to make camp. With sunset at
5:30pm, I was setting up camp by 3:30. I picked the most sheltered spot I could
find, right in the middle of a thicket of pine.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Camp was going to be simple. It’s something I have been trying to work out for
the past few week. My goal was to use the blanket as ground insulation, and the
comforter as a top quilt. I got the idea from an article I found by Horace
Kephart titled Featherweight Camping in England. In the article Kephart
describes the sleep system of T.H. Holding. While Kephart dismisses the sleep
system as not suited for American campers, the description is worth noting:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>The ground-sheet is of light mackintosh. Over it goes a little
"groundblanket" of thin cashmere, with eyelets at the corners, so that it can be
pegged down. This is not only for the sake of warmth, but also to save wear on
the mackintosh, which has to be very thin.</em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em>Mr. Holding's eiderdown quilt is only to cover with, not to roll up in. The
Wigwam size is 5 feet 10 inches by 4 feet, to which is added a foot of cloth
valance all around, which is pegged or weighted down so that the sleeper will
not kick off his covering. These quilts are thinner than the domestic ones of
down, and roll up into remarkably small compass.”</em> Horace Kephart,
Featherweight Camping in England, 1914</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It is also the earliest depiction I have been able to find of a down sleeping
bag in use when camping. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2PFu0Xfv9drBmOUkAo2eSHQwPuzu1j0dqcJr4e3lZnG8ELXXSzgTmKAWHs-0fx30E4WBdqIi35_1lYH6vjvrqMrXnLW65x4ArrXqjW28U3k_5vu4RYHDpZ1cP0RmHRzh-MdDqF4Rg60/s1600/Holding+Bag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2PFu0Xfv9drBmOUkAo2eSHQwPuzu1j0dqcJr4e3lZnG8ELXXSzgTmKAWHs-0fx30E4WBdqIi35_1lYH6vjvrqMrXnLW65x4ArrXqjW28U3k_5vu4RYHDpZ1cP0RmHRzh-MdDqF4Rg60/s640/Holding+Bag.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Anyway, my plan was to duplicate this sleep system, except kick it up a few
notches to make it appropriate for the temperature. I haven’t seen any
references of T.H. Holding doing much winter backpacking.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I put my oil-cloth tarp on the ground. I left half of it folded up behind my
back. My plan was to pull it over me if the wind got bad because the comforter I
have is not good at stopping wind. On top I put my blanket, folded over in four
It made for a sleeping platform bout a foot wide. On top I put the quilt, folded
over in half. I pinned it to the blanket using eight blanket pins. The
arrangement was too tight around he shoulders, so I had to stagger the comforter
there a bit, leaving a small section on the side that had only one layer of
comforter. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgKLCJDiHkaVFNPVptN3TuZb5V7HQua3nYL0ectOaBXJmjcnie2LpclkQTSwMUwAY8I4za2lSXDwxMkufoAR9g76Y5UjQ_h-wJ7rS_gg7-PpYFKQsLnlYkiiVHnWdEyujkN-2dEMwPwTA/s1600/IMG_5717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgKLCJDiHkaVFNPVptN3TuZb5V7HQua3nYL0ectOaBXJmjcnie2LpclkQTSwMUwAY8I4za2lSXDwxMkufoAR9g76Y5UjQ_h-wJ7rS_gg7-PpYFKQsLnlYkiiVHnWdEyujkN-2dEMwPwTA/s640/IMG_5717.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The set up was quick, and the folded over comforter lofted up nicely. I gathered
some firewood, and got to the numerous tasks I had to finish before nightfall:
make water, fill up my canteen with hot water so I can use it under my
comforter, cook food, dry out my pants and gloves, etc. I put on my second
sweater, which was warm enough when I was near the fire. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6LxKPo4PCmrqdiDT_LV2EBy2zwcBdedO5PjRQmutBzl6wCEHlVx54FFBldgJHpeUwsFoqcz_IjmIY1d36njU7YeXzneXD7RVpJ7oFEVnDc7S3gH4tkDJvqm01iy66BxTVUajbiOsI6s/s1600/IMG_5734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6LxKPo4PCmrqdiDT_LV2EBy2zwcBdedO5PjRQmutBzl6wCEHlVx54FFBldgJHpeUwsFoqcz_IjmIY1d36njU7YeXzneXD7RVpJ7oFEVnDc7S3gH4tkDJvqm01iy66BxTVUajbiOsI6s/s640/IMG_5734.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
At this temperature everything takes much longer. Every object that gets even a
little warm acquires a coating of ice that you then have to chip off. The pot is
impossible to was. The moment you put any water in it, you get a coating of ice
that you then can’t remove without heating up the pot. When you then put it
down, half the forest floor freezes onto it. You can’t touch your canteen with
uncovered hands because it will freeze to them. That’s why I usually don’t like
metal canteens, but I don’t have a choice here.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiDL9Ku2OswBY7ZQENn3qD1TrmAR_ybwJKOzIfvwZfeGXv8g0aU6p3N1wM7qCqmoQXZ48Ra_QI8WqAZGAYjT67I3rCx4l_uON9bPon-HIvJcb0McH9nhGYC0uvZ241EwgHMEB42DneHLw/s1600/IMG_5742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiDL9Ku2OswBY7ZQENn3qD1TrmAR_ybwJKOzIfvwZfeGXv8g0aU6p3N1wM7qCqmoQXZ48Ra_QI8WqAZGAYjT67I3rCx4l_uON9bPon-HIvJcb0McH9nhGYC0uvZ241EwgHMEB42DneHLw/s640/IMG_5742.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When everything was done, I crawled into my sleep system, and prepared for a
miserable night. I had gathered a small amount of wood and was planning on
keeping a very small fire going all night long just in case. I had plenty of
fire wood within reach.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The sleep system was an unbelievable success. Well, a success in the sense that
it kept me alive during the night when the temperature fell to about –20F
(-29C). I was supposed to be even colder, but I was in a sheltered spot, which
kept the area warm, and more importantly, blocked the wind for most of the
night. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Before I go on, I don’t want to oversell any of this, in case someone else is
thinking of doing it. Over the years I’ve gotten fairly comfortable with the
difference for my own body between being extremely cold, and being close to
death from the cold. When here I say that something worked, I mean that I wasn’t
close to death. You shouldn’t interpret that to mean that I had a cozy night. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On numerous occasions I got very cold and was shivering uncontrollably. It is in
part due to the cold, and in part that my body tends to freak out at certain
points when it gets cold, and it takes several minutes for it to stabilize. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Even though I planned to keep the fire going, the sleep system was so
“comfortable”, that I fell asleep for too long, and the fire went out. I
decided not to restart it because getting out from under the comforter would be
counterproductive. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The main problem was that during the night I would tend to pull up my knees and
curl up, which would push the comforter aside and open up gaps near my knees and
my butt. Both would immediately get very cold, and I would wake up, straighten
out, and then shiver until I warmed up again. The doubled up comforter, provided
nearly five inches of loft, which made this surprisingly doable. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had some other minor problems. The comforter near my mouth froze due to my
breath, even though I was trying not to breath on it. My pant leg apparently
wasn’t completely dry, so it felt chill, although the comforter by my feet kept
giving excellent insulation despite the moisture build up. In the morning when I
opened up the comforter, I had steam coming out from my pant leg. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Overall though, it was a very successful nigh, and I was very surprised by the
effectiveness of the sleep system. The blanket folded over in four provided
sufficient insulation from the ground, and the quilt provided excellent
insulation on top.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There was only one point during the night where I was worried about making it. I
don’t know what time it was, but the wind started coming through, and really
cutting through the insulation. As I had planned, I tried to pull the second
half of my tarp over me, but the oil-cloth was frozen almost stiff. It was like
working with a hard piece of plastic. I’ve noticed it gets stiff in cold
weather, but this was nearly unworkable. It was like putting a rectangular piece
of plastic over me. Even when I managed to do it, the wind would just push it
over. Luckily, the wind died down quickly. I lost a lot of heat because of the
wind and because I was trying to mess with the tarp. The fingers on my right
hand were completely numb, and it took me what seemed like a very long time to
get my body warm enough so that I would not be worried about making it. I
contemplated getting up to restart the fire, but I was shaking so much, that I
wasn’t sure I would be able to. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Anyway, I made it through to the morning. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP1ES9wOpj7xJaor63iWFm-UCN_2cRVszLeIADYjH499jIpYp_egxIPDqqhE16QyEmNV_Lh6qTvsk7_a8-Mp9J4WXDnxu3_8KxOR6XIurzQqaHTb_BAtiPAI7Ky-Zwr0dNAqNvpI3kttA/s1600/IMG_5748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP1ES9wOpj7xJaor63iWFm-UCN_2cRVszLeIADYjH499jIpYp_egxIPDqqhE16QyEmNV_Lh6qTvsk7_a8-Mp9J4WXDnxu3_8KxOR6XIurzQqaHTb_BAtiPAI7Ky-Zwr0dNAqNvpI3kttA/s640/IMG_5748.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I gathered some small pieces of fire wood, and using what was left over from the
night before, got a small fire going again to warm up.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYyuhxwU5HMKUidaxAhbvSc_37kKxrWlIcisGWmHIa3BFcV1TIJ_l3QdqJwWqO-a17TSPsVlxSArVklgx1ozDPpgoDyr-g7W4mIuikFQcixD1x7VGNPaRXoAV20OAsUwkHdbV4XcZuxT0/s1600/IMG_5749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYyuhxwU5HMKUidaxAhbvSc_37kKxrWlIcisGWmHIa3BFcV1TIJ_l3QdqJwWqO-a17TSPsVlxSArVklgx1ozDPpgoDyr-g7W4mIuikFQcixD1x7VGNPaRXoAV20OAsUwkHdbV4XcZuxT0/s640/IMG_5749.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My feet were in very bad shape. They were fine under the comforter, but after I
shoved them into my frozen boots, I lost all feeling in them. I suspect it was a
combination of the frozen boots and the socks getting damp from the moisture
coming off from my not-so-dry pant leg.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When my hands were warm, I packed up and headed out. I was sure that my tarp was
going to snap while I was folding it because it was so stiff, but it worked out
fine. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtrEcFtYZm8s71kBL2ukxkaDaSSH2k509-WHaPDRkq1zfhlAo5rGukLlfeSkB9kkjCZEBPM1vpfQE28f4H_FzHgAL_yGGI5glvzqtLPs6oeI7s6M5LpCpDJz3G6MkJQ-von5LB0B21aQ/s1600/IMG_5766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtrEcFtYZm8s71kBL2ukxkaDaSSH2k509-WHaPDRkq1zfhlAo5rGukLlfeSkB9kkjCZEBPM1vpfQE28f4H_FzHgAL_yGGI5glvzqtLPs6oeI7s6M5LpCpDJz3G6MkJQ-von5LB0B21aQ/s640/IMG_5766.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After about an hour of walking I warmed up and was able to feel my feet again. I
had some home made venison jerky on the go.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZOFXqW5K0qDsNbr1OFur9KR_hF8O7aWfKH9-ugSPq0RnNxjuVvF9P97JHJ_IU_6203VenJaq8u0pZWgI-lM1CZ9mLCouYycPA_Zx6dHPh3oTpWlagnSS02wnjFqjcoS6S-DIyF2ttNE/s1600/IMG_5787.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZOFXqW5K0qDsNbr1OFur9KR_hF8O7aWfKH9-ugSPq0RnNxjuVvF9P97JHJ_IU_6203VenJaq8u0pZWgI-lM1CZ9mLCouYycPA_Zx6dHPh3oTpWlagnSS02wnjFqjcoS6S-DIyF2ttNE/s640/IMG_5787.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
By the earl afternoon I was out of the forest. I was very happy with the
trip. The sleep system performed way better than I expected. If I decided, or
had the money to make a winter specific sleep system, i.e. a folded up blanket
for ground cover with a properly sized folded over quilt on top sewn to the
blanket, I think one could have an excellent winter sleep system. Again, this is
relative to 19th and early 20th century sleep system. If I had my regular
sleeping bag and pad, this trip wouldn’t even be worth reporting. Considering I’m
using 100 year old technology though, I’m happy with the results.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-11154989903414351032016-02-11T08:27:00.002-05:002016-02-11T12:31:59.153-05:00Classic Backpacking Gear: ClothingThe issue of clothing in the context of <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a> is a tricky one. The reason for the
complexity is not the subject matter, but rather giving you any kind of coherent
compilation of the recommendations made by each of the authors. All of the
authors I’ve read as relating to the period of 1880 through 1930 offer their own
preferences for what proper outdoor clothing would be, and the recommendations
vary widely. Just about every recommendation is made, and any garment available
at the time, from sweaters, to hand made blanket shirts, to three piece suits
were in use by woodsmen. Here is just a small sampling of what you can look
forward to when reading the texts, together with a few images:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwnH65HmoNNLkHdr2UgRnX9u0kgg69cAY2n1R5jIVAqPmS-j9IzxvW10egJHM6exxhGY24cSqdcDeArkphJ6oCkZcN8_xZxPYVZLgpz77zYxMvotv6pOwfefHSd1I6pYzhMBh4svEqEo/s1600/Warren+Miller+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="786" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwnH65HmoNNLkHdr2UgRnX9u0kgg69cAY2n1R5jIVAqPmS-j9IzxvW10egJHM6exxhGY24cSqdcDeArkphJ6oCkZcN8_xZxPYVZLgpz77zYxMvotv6pOwfefHSd1I6pYzhMBh4svEqEo/s640/Warren+Miller+2.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
“<em>I am no believer in waterproof garments. Once I owned a pantasote outer
coat which I used to assume whenever it rained. Ordinarily when it is warm
enough to rain, it is warm enough to cause you to perspire under the exertion of
walking in a pantasote coat. This I discovered. Shortly I would get wet, and
would be quite unable to decide whether the rain had soaked through from the
outside or I had soaked through from the inside. After that I gave the coat away
to a man who had not tried it, and was happy. If I must walk in the rain I
prefer to put on a sweater — the rough wool of which will turn water for some
time and the texture of which allows ventilation. Then the chances are that even
if I soak through I do not get a reactionary chill from becoming over heated. In
camp you will know enough to go in when it rains.”</em> Stewart Edward White,
Camp and Trail, 1911, p.56<br />
<br />
“<em>It will be best, therefore, to have a pair of good overalls, with a tongue
to keep the wet out of the boots… For the body a coat (Mackintosh) is
indispensable. A man cannot pitch his tent in a cape with overalls that come to
the middle of the thigh and fasten to the brace button with an upward strap. As
he stoops they come down, and the cape flies up and his arms so get wet. A loose
cover coat, 35 inches long, is best.”</em> Thomas Hiram Holding, The Camper’s
Handbook, 1908 p.222<br />
<div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPIp3S9YcZ_UoqRzGrZrXb_8ZMhyphenhyphenE_cBV1yW2yHeRA4Hwykw5OToc5hd2T2Q88thlL2WXRpfWOv2xcf9anH6WHfHnFhomZP8oYm9VJj7v71VEGwFKPMac58HKomlBlfeBGJ1PIZCmiJSs/s1600/John-Muir-and-John-Burroughs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPIp3S9YcZ_UoqRzGrZrXb_8ZMhyphenhyphenE_cBV1yW2yHeRA4Hwykw5OToc5hd2T2Q88thlL2WXRpfWOv2xcf9anH6WHfHnFhomZP8oYm9VJj7v71VEGwFKPMac58HKomlBlfeBGJ1PIZCmiJSs/s640/John-Muir-and-John-Burroughs.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div>
“<em>A good wool sweater is far preferable (to a coat) and should be included in
every individual pack; you won't use it much more than for a warmer at the
evening camp.</em>” Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916 p.22</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
“<em>With nothing over it, a sweater is not serviceable in the woods, as it "
picks out," " snags," and catches up burrs as a magnet does iron filings…
Personally, I usually discard the sweater in favor of a mackinaw shirt, worn
hunting fashion with tail outside. It has all the good points of a sweater,
except great elasticity, and has the advantages of shedding rain and snow,
keeping out wind, wearing well under hard service, and not picking up so much
trash.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol, I1918 (2nd edition,
1920) p.147</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRLoJZSSUZAWLD-FBKSIqLReadWXYbcbubj75_gQkI98Hj0HpAoRY9Qi7FJTAk-RFkSUjq-Jy2TAuZ2ySFhUaUVlqFE-h2QeWdhyTycq4ICKWCSGqF6fq_cJoId-oHCCP3DfF1Jr-O0kQ/s1600/horacekephart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRLoJZSSUZAWLD-FBKSIqLReadWXYbcbubj75_gQkI98Hj0HpAoRY9Qi7FJTAk-RFkSUjq-Jy2TAuZ2ySFhUaUVlqFE-h2QeWdhyTycq4ICKWCSGqF6fq_cJoId-oHCCP3DfF1Jr-O0kQ/s640/horacekephart.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
“<em>The selection of the undersuit requires more care than the outer garments.
Preferably it should be a loosely fitting union suit of pure soft wool
regardless of season. Wool absorbs perspiration and prevents chill. Cotton on
the other hand retains perspiration and is a clammy chill producer when the body
begins to cool off. Never use thick underwear even in winter: better have an
extra undersuit, a size larger than the one ordinarily worn, for doubling up in
cold weather. Two thin suits worn together are warmer than a thick one weighing
as much as both : this is due to the dead air interspace between the two.”</em>
Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916 p.24</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
“<em>Union Suits are not practical in the wilds. If you wade a stream, or get
your legs soaked from wet brush or snow, you can easily take off a pair of
drawers to dry them, but if wearing a union suit you must strip from head to
foot. Moreover, a union suit is hard to wash, and it is a perfect haven for
fleas and ticks — you can't get rid of the brutes without stripping to the
buff.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918 (2nd edition,
1920) p.141</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDesuKQzQsI8tyDMrsWQ2uE2-3KBY6w5QyjXGcdG8sf9vPqOFx4O838HhJMwlqUblYAlL8mlFtSydgU4Gvdq6yPeWk6JgMU-RZ_xRd8T-eHCTvdOunxUeZHPeQezAGg1u40nPDVr81Ms/s1600/Nansen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="773" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDesuKQzQsI8tyDMrsWQ2uE2-3KBY6w5QyjXGcdG8sf9vPqOFx4O838HhJMwlqUblYAlL8mlFtSydgU4Gvdq6yPeWk6JgMU-RZ_xRd8T-eHCTvdOunxUeZHPeQezAGg1u40nPDVr81Ms/s640/Nansen.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
“<em>I would rather wear corduroy (coat), but Mackinaw cloth is better than
either, especially for cold weather. The Mackinaw coat is light, soft and warm,
is not noisy, turns a fair amount of water, and is in all ways the most
practical article for the big game hunter. In the northern brush it is worn
almost exclusively.”</em> Elmer Harry Kreps, Camp and Trail Methods, 1910 p.31</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
“<em>The coat it to be at once eliminated. One never needs it: it is cumbersome,
it impedes the swing of the arms and is no protection in inclement weather. It
readily soaks up water or if made of waterproof stuff moisture is condensed
inside.”</em> Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916 p.22</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUamRYckTVa38IaRiLPcYXVRbEj9cQiWk76rOV82nDEILh863BwzVJAKq-oVu0aJFqjgX83TzbeytpGuEWw9pTFIQeY6MqzunsHr79YxM49XpuCJ2zkholWppYmKxPD-ftD_j_hnz6P-Q/s1600/TH+Holding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUamRYckTVa38IaRiLPcYXVRbEj9cQiWk76rOV82nDEILh863BwzVJAKq-oVu0aJFqjgX83TzbeytpGuEWw9pTFIQeY6MqzunsHr79YxM49XpuCJ2zkholWppYmKxPD-ftD_j_hnz6P-Q/s640/TH+Holding.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
“<em>With the exception of two tunics of reindeer-skin which the Lapps wore, and
a little coat lined with squirrel-skin which I took, but scarcely used, we had
no furs, but wore woollen things throughout. Next our skins we had thin woollen
shirts and drawers, then thick, rough jerseys, and then our outer garments,
which consisted of a short coat, knickerbockers, and gaiters.”</em> Fridtjof
Nansen, The First Crossing of Greenland, 1890 p.31</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
“<em>As to clothing for the woods, a good deal of nonsense has been written
about "strong, coarse woolen clothes." You do not want coarse woolen clothes.
Fine woolen cassimere of medium thickness for coat, vest and pantaloons, with no
cotton lining. Color, slate gray or dead-leaf (either is good). Two soft, thick
woolen shirts; two pairs of fine, but substantial, woolen drawers; two pairs of
strong woolen socks or stockings; these are what you need, and all you need in
the way of clothing for the woods, excepting hat and boots, or gaiters.”</em>
George Washington Sears, Woodcraft, 1892 p.4-5</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiXT3_aJczsTZlc2UyW2wq_ON0_lcyONxr9daQKNnAY5ed6RW_ZPdi4QyIHN3S7II1piirC3RuJgidyUd7HpDiGZsRaVMKGR7rgC4heC41-m21E5d3P1Y2h1Vm00Ab_LlbdxH02qEQlrg/s1600/Shackleton-South-Pole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiXT3_aJczsTZlc2UyW2wq_ON0_lcyONxr9daQKNnAY5ed6RW_ZPdi4QyIHN3S7II1piirC3RuJgidyUd7HpDiGZsRaVMKGR7rgC4heC41-m21E5d3P1Y2h1Vm00Ab_LlbdxH02qEQlrg/s640/Shackleton-South-Pole.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
Because of the extremely wide variations in style and clothing preferences and
recommendations, which were in large part guided by prevailing fashions at the
time and place where the author lived, it would be pointless for any of us to
try to generate some agreed upon “ideal” for outdoor clothing for the Classic
Backpacking period. I suggest you either use your own judgment and experience to
select period appropriate clothing, or just replicate the choices of your
favorite author. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixozkaix9hxn00CEK2uBsEwpeEk1Hfw-KsBunoxhkPlLl1EGIG-ReRj-SjoVFaOqv2WmH3smOjpr6D3C60W4kEBxZiwKbyux5Di-_s5p_FHjWGvXHxdGr2-DZdNTWBKVZ62Yb_6YeNmLw/s1600/IMG_5263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixozkaix9hxn00CEK2uBsEwpeEk1Hfw-KsBunoxhkPlLl1EGIG-ReRj-SjoVFaOqv2WmH3smOjpr6D3C60W4kEBxZiwKbyux5Di-_s5p_FHjWGvXHxdGr2-DZdNTWBKVZ62Yb_6YeNmLw/s640/IMG_5263.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div>
<br />
I think a good place to start when talking about clothing is to look at the
materials available during the period. Once we know what was available, we would
be free to imitate the style of dress preferred by our favorite woodsman of the
period. <br />
<br />
Generally speaking, what was available was wool, cotton, linen, silk, and fur.
Starting with those materials, many variations were available. Clearly both
cotton and wool came in woven and knitted varieties, but there were also some
more specific variations which are named in the texts. A few of them are:<br />
<ul>
<li>Felt is a material made of matted wool. It is neither woven nor knitted, but
is made by pressing wool fibers together.
</li>
<li>Jersey is a knitted fabric. It can typically be made of either cotton or
wool.
</li>
<li>Mackinaw is a woven wool material similar to a blanket.
</li>
<li>Corduroy is a woven cotton fabric with raised ribs.
</li>
<li>Flannel is a woven fabric with a brushed surface. If can be made of cotton
or wool.
</li>
<li>Moleskin is a cotton fabric with fuzzy surface.
</li>
<li>Macintosh is a rubberized cotton material, created in 1823. By 1855, coats
made of the material were produced and sold. In many of the sources we see
references to the material as ground sheets, coats, or ponchos.
</li>
<li>Burberry is a tightly woven cotton material. It was invented in 1879 by
Thomas Burberry and carries his name. Similar coats of tightly woven cotton
started being produced a few years earlier around 1875. Of the material Nansen
writes: “<em>In wind, snow, and rain we generally wore outside our other clothes
a light suit of some thin, brown, canvas-like stuff. This was reputed completely
waterproof, but it turned out to be nothing of the kind. In wind and snow,
however, it did excellent service, and we used it often on the "Inland ice," as
it protected us well against the fine driven snow, which, being of the nature of
dust, forces itself into every pore of a woollen fabric, and then, melting, wets
it through and through</em>.” Fridtjof Nansen, The First Crossing of Greenland,
1890 p.32 Ventile, a similar fabric available today was not invented until 1941. </li>
</ul>
<div>
Lastly, towards the end of the Classic Backpacking period, down coats started to
be developed. Much like down sleeping bags they were very high end product, and
didn’t seem to have been available to the average person. In the image below
from the Royal Geographical Society, you can see George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce
during the 1922 Everest expedition. Finch in the back is wearing an early
version of a down coat. In front, Bruce is wearing a Burberry wind shell.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpWG-YFdRhHwpm5wR_MUmQrTLFErYe7gBSGZf8E5EUHxAInC_tOJXN4mIhZ2ANAdwLIbREgTj-HzxU6mj97tTV4QjcdzsS1aTL9GuISxXxZZibE3EdbPsc8D_OkJvUMS-zG32Sl5JgpmQ/s1600/1922+Down+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpWG-YFdRhHwpm5wR_MUmQrTLFErYe7gBSGZf8E5EUHxAInC_tOJXN4mIhZ2ANAdwLIbREgTj-HzxU6mj97tTV4QjcdzsS1aTL9GuISxXxZZibE3EdbPsc8D_OkJvUMS-zG32Sl5JgpmQ/s640/1922+Down+2.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div>
<br />
Even though we see a lot of divergence in opinion when it comes to different
authors/woodsmen of the period, there does seem to be a shared understanding of
layering, using the above materials. Generally all of them recommend some sort
of undergarment which would wick moisture away and provide insulation. Then a
mid-layer of insulation, especially for the torso. Lastly, some form of shell to
protect either from rain, snow, wind, or abrasion. The exact choices vary based
on personal preference and the environment, but the general approach is what we
grew up knowing as the layering principle. You can see some clothing lists for
extremely cold weather <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/12/early-20th-century-cold-weather.html" target="_blank">here</a>. <br />
<br />
We also see a general preference for wool clothing, in different variations,
particularly when it comes to insulation layers. Just about every author
recommends that wool undergarments be worn, and despite disagreeing about the
exact form of the additional insulation layers, they largely recommend wool for
that purpose as well, although Kephart warns against getting carried away:
“<em>However, the broad statement that one should wear nothing but wool at all
seasons requires modification. It depends upon quality and weave. Some flannels
are less absorptive and less permeable (especially after a few washings by the
scrub-and- wring-out process) than open-texture cottons and linens.”</em> Horace
Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918 (2nd edition, 1920) p.140<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, at this point in the post we have to make a diversion to discuss
an aspect of wool clothing about which more nonsense has been written online in
the past decade, than any other. You see, some time in the mid 1990s, a
previously unknown property of wool was discovered. This new property is that while a
person is at home, writing comments online, wet wool clothing continues to keep
him just as warm as when the wool clothing was dry. This phenomenon however is
only observed online. When one goes into the woods, it stops doing so. Since the
internet did not exist during the Classic Backpacking period the authors at the
time were not familiar with this new property.<br />
<br />
I joke of course, but the point I am making a serious one. I am writing these
posts both for information, but also in case people are interested in actually
going into the woods and trying this type of backpacking. If you are one of
those people who is interested in actually being in the woods, and facing the
conditions nature may unleash upon you, make no mistake, wet clothing will not
keep you warm. It doesn’t matter if it is made of wool, cotton, some modern
miracle material, or unicorn hair treated with the tears of a bald eagle. If
your clothing gets wet, it will lose significant amounts of insulation. Above
all else, you need to stay dry.<br />
<br />
“<em>The old mythology of clothing said that for warmth-when-wet, it had to be
wool. The modern mythology says synthetics such as polyester and polypropylene
are warm when wet. Both myths are precisely that. Any insulating material which
is wet is no longer an insulating material… The heat loss through a wet garment
will usually be about three times the heat loss through the same garment when
dry. So you need to wear three wet parkas to do the Job of one dry one. Don't
rely on magic materials to keep you warm in the wet, stay dry. If you-do get
wet, change. If you still insist on getting wet, wear a diving suit.”</em>
Technical Note 89-21, Canadian National Defense Research Establishment Ottawa,
1969<br />
<br />
The woodsmen during the Classic Backpacking period were fully aware of that
fact. While they wrote about wool being a better insulator when wet, or giving
less of a chill when wet than the alternatives of cotton or linen that were available at the time, none of them
had any delusions about wool keeping them warm when wet. It didn’t back then,
and it doesn’t now…well, at least not in the woods.<br />
<br />
“<em>Wet (wool) clothing is heavy and uncomfortable. It is much less permeable
to air than dry clothing; consequently it interferes with evaporation of sweat ;
and it is chilly, because water, which is a good conductor of heat, has replaced
the air, which is a non-conductor. Air passes through dry cloth more than twice
as freely as through wet material.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft
Vol I, 1918 (2nd edition, 1920) p.148<br />
<br />
“<em>Carry a change of underwear… Fresh dry underclothes are as warm as an extra
blanket would be if one slept in the sweaty garments he wore during the
day.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol II, 1918 (2nd edition,
1920) p.100<br />
<br />
“<em>It is quite advisable to waterproof all woolen items in the outfit after
the following methods: secure three ounces of anhydrous wool fat and dissolve in
chloroform. This is added to one gallon of benzine and the garments soaked
therein for three minutes and then hung up to dry in a draft. The volatile
benzine evaporates leaving the fibers of the wool encased in the natural oil.
This is of particular advantage to the outdoor man since the woolen fibers thus
treated do not soak up water and swell but only allow water to fill up the air
inter spaces of the fabric from which it can be readily expelled.”</em> Claude
P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916 p.23<br />
<br />
“<em>Whether the work be hard or not, woollen clothes are far the best, as they
give free outlet to the perspiration, whereas cotton, linen, or skins would
check it. Above all things, we had to take care that we did not get overheated,
because the succeeding chill was so likely to lead to freezing. As we got warm
we had, therefore, to gradually abandon one garment after another, and we might
often have been seen in fifty and sixty degrees of frost working in our jerseys,
and yet perspiring as on an ordinary summers day.”</em> Fridtjof Nansen, The
First Crossing of Greenland, 1890 p.31<br />
<br />
So, if you are planning to go into the woods, forget all claims of magical
fabrics, either modern or traditional. Leave that to the marketing executives
and the online woodsmen. Stay dry, and you will stay warm. If you do get wet,
dry out as soon as you can. Both Claude P. Fordyce and Horace Kephart offer
treatment methods for wool which will prevent the fibers from absorbing water,
in effect turning the material into modern fleece. The purpose of the treatment
is to keep as much water out of the fabric as possible, and to allow for easy
removal of the water if it does get wet. Much of the mythology of wool keeping
you warm when wet comes not from some magical ability to retain insulation when
wet, but rather from wool’s ability to shed water much better than comparable
cotton or linen clothing. <br />
<br />
So, all this silliness aside, let me share with you what choices I’ve made.<br />
<br />
For base layer, I wear use a 250g SmartWool merino wool top. It works well
enough alone in warm weather, and as a base layer the rest of the time. It is a
knitted construction, and is not particularly durable. Wool is notoriously
non-durable, especially when thin like this. It has a 1/4 zipper, which is not
exactly period appropriate. While zippers were developed in the early 1900s,
they were not available to the average woodsman. I have not been able to find a
similar shirt with buttons instead of a zipper.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m4sFwBStc_EKK1w0pisKoSaLusimzSrneKH4UZf-ZISGn_nEdBAhY37wmkW_3T9k5V37xYPCv6vTpjrLUYvgS1NdYf7mN8h8ha6LhWzAL7_MV8uKJs4OqRN7cY2cQdKc2NJzayUMk-I/s1600/IMG_5680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m4sFwBStc_EKK1w0pisKoSaLusimzSrneKH4UZf-ZISGn_nEdBAhY37wmkW_3T9k5V37xYPCv6vTpjrLUYvgS1NdYf7mN8h8ha6LhWzAL7_MV8uKJs4OqRN7cY2cQdKc2NJzayUMk-I/s640/IMG_5680.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I generally do not wear a base layer on my legs. Unless it’s –30F (-34C) I find
my legs don’t need the added insulation. Instead, I wear a pair of German Army
surplus wool pants. They look to be early WW II. They have a button fly, and the
slant of the pockets looks period correct, even though I assume the pants were
made in the 1940s. The M51 US Army surplus pants are also a good option even
though they are not pure wool. They are more durable than the pure wool
alternative, but are not exactly period correct. In warm weather I wear cotton
or corduroy pants. On my feet I wear a pair of REI wool blend socks. If you want
socks that are going to last more than a season, they have to be some type of
blend. Pure wool socks wear out very quickly.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-fvL1mZrOzTpUEVtO5P6RdlSzCKWAl3AG8VQ5YLmCd03TjZfAegsrax6-FcKn0_r3YXC-uQs2QGbswaBl-j4XHdAHPzP9mbUNkdwQzur1B6YLNbw58tel24-XqQp8_tVvdHW854bsrcA/s1600/IMG_5680+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-fvL1mZrOzTpUEVtO5P6RdlSzCKWAl3AG8VQ5YLmCd03TjZfAegsrax6-FcKn0_r3YXC-uQs2QGbswaBl-j4XHdAHPzP9mbUNkdwQzur1B6YLNbw58tel24-XqQp8_tVvdHW854bsrcA/s640/IMG_5680+%25282%2529.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My next layer is another wool shirt. I like the Pendleton 100% wool shirts. They
are made of woven wool, and offer a good mix of insulation, durability, and wind
protection.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwiowFqicvzxnbRAjNVv5wK6mKr5n3tpl0aeXbHraDLPk7my4b8jKvcUagMYGeuIdjNfDj0G7E6K8MHMKGwcUeyGHK45L-j1WTeCWlXJPkcPWj3s1Ic9DCFCgnwyJQ70xTRsnBohzFZFI/s1600/IMG_5684.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwiowFqicvzxnbRAjNVv5wK6mKr5n3tpl0aeXbHraDLPk7my4b8jKvcUagMYGeuIdjNfDj0G7E6K8MHMKGwcUeyGHK45L-j1WTeCWlXJPkcPWj3s1Ic9DCFCgnwyJQ70xTRsnBohzFZFI/s640/IMG_5684.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW1c0-mymCpxTQYD__rHlwylFsFkDzZizmnVf6as-hORYA3yOqoEamrVXgGhlNUJlACM-6doIYEmW4ehLpR88H1Yiw5iXhokxOQE7B4dxGfdV8g7TOV3UBrRCg0JgAO1dj7pNbVwM10bE/s1600/IMG_5519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW1c0-mymCpxTQYD__rHlwylFsFkDzZizmnVf6as-hORYA3yOqoEamrVXgGhlNUJlACM-6doIYEmW4ehLpR88H1Yiw5iXhokxOQE7B4dxGfdV8g7TOV3UBrRCg0JgAO1dj7pNbVwM10bE/s640/IMG_5519.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In conditions where I need to layer more clothing, in particular, more than one
sweater, I like to replace this shirt with a vest. Otherwise, I find that I get
too much material in my sleeves and around my neck. The “vest” is just an old
Pendleton wool shirt that I cut up. I removed the sleeves and the fold-down
portion of the collar.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIXmRutdaREA9GIET1JOOzKZLPc7vnZgaoOSQEYKgQl4yLnMGi3lcZZ6-xXLsc0f0PGZm8v4LgvZuzmJX78YncmzxE6n3j0Onq3hZEGaH3eQoma9azczTMU37v8r4H7IMYoMaaELJ91EA/s1600/IMG_5681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIXmRutdaREA9GIET1JOOzKZLPc7vnZgaoOSQEYKgQl4yLnMGi3lcZZ6-xXLsc0f0PGZm8v4LgvZuzmJX78YncmzxE6n3j0Onq3hZEGaH3eQoma9azczTMU37v8r4H7IMYoMaaELJ91EA/s640/IMG_5681.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The next layer involves several items. The main one is a crew neck Woolrich 100%
wool sweater. I have come to prefer sweaters to other forms of insulation like
jackets or blanket shirts because they offer more insulation for the weight and
bulk. They are warm and pack up much better. That is essential since most of the
time when I am backpacking, the sweater stays in my pack. The neck is covered by
a SmartWool neck gaiter. Similar articles were available during the period, and
it is smaller than a scarf. On my hands I use a pair of army surplus wool
gloves, and my head is covered by a wool hat.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHTaa5Cnnr4eH7yUX__OE3Ueb2DhZzNw82QaH1eJAtbVHWK9blwdYH5jRJ_-EB0-R1Nf76XrOj5BBuxWrgpfBROARQogStVFUNyAyZzssLk2N7SAltyslI7lJlm_26xLsz9najr1Hby6U/s1600/IMG_5686.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHTaa5Cnnr4eH7yUX__OE3Ueb2DhZzNw82QaH1eJAtbVHWK9blwdYH5jRJ_-EB0-R1Nf76XrOj5BBuxWrgpfBROARQogStVFUNyAyZzssLk2N7SAltyslI7lJlm_26xLsz9najr1Hby6U/s640/IMG_5686.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh358Xz0BJxprpBfs7_j8HHVxfoaJrbHiLc_0UgwWZhr0H5RKSLvadzCu6fb3TLO7suyq59EMGs5x63XA1QcqAsxZKEcliuIWpc2ZXeNlTcTVTS-qdR-KxyFdNYY5NL6XSmO528G5fryI/s1600/IMG_5565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh358Xz0BJxprpBfs7_j8HHVxfoaJrbHiLc_0UgwWZhr0H5RKSLvadzCu6fb3TLO7suyq59EMGs5x63XA1QcqAsxZKEcliuIWpc2ZXeNlTcTVTS-qdR-KxyFdNYY5NL6XSmO528G5fryI/s640/IMG_5565.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On an average trip, with temperatures down to about 20F (-7C) this is all the
clothing I carry unless it is snowing or I expect rain.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
If it is any colder, I bring an additional layer. It is an Orvis 100% wool
turtle neck sweater. I also use a second pair of gloves. They are army surplus
fingerless gloves, which I layer on top of the other gloves.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy2eJmAJyVvpX9zb4Gv6kOMahoXn1iIss92kmUC-F4NcVNUXCPbd3j6eMuE2pyVEga8tNsYF3VdFZ4seNFsOMQKg4FcawLOagKbahzYDeakuIheGYEhbcnhYvBIv4lcCIR8VebHLIoflc/s1600/IMG_5687.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy2eJmAJyVvpX9zb4Gv6kOMahoXn1iIss92kmUC-F4NcVNUXCPbd3j6eMuE2pyVEga8tNsYF3VdFZ4seNFsOMQKg4FcawLOagKbahzYDeakuIheGYEhbcnhYvBIv4lcCIR8VebHLIoflc/s640/IMG_5687.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij8dK_-MgnbEOsBXNlrhPhYndZ-L8M25Xd2hU40UpVByYvym413_yv_REB6SOeeRZk9rG3Rrlrv7AxvLUL48EPNuVV43NuZn2JhTZ79ild5eCM5rkvR4puuVGBwDzQY5xgs6BRlVkGz1o/s1600/IMG_5347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij8dK_-MgnbEOsBXNlrhPhYndZ-L8M25Xd2hU40UpVByYvym413_yv_REB6SOeeRZk9rG3Rrlrv7AxvLUL48EPNuVV43NuZn2JhTZ79ild5eCM5rkvR4puuVGBwDzQY5xgs6BRlVkGz1o/s640/IMG_5347.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lastly, if there is snow, or rain, or high wind, I bring a shell layer. It is an
Urban Outfitters CPO Anorak. It is made of 65% cotton and 35% nylon. It is
woven, so just like the cotton alternative, it is not waterproof, although it
will shed a decent amount. The effect of the nylon threads is that it takes a
low quality cotton and makes it feel like high quality similar to Burberry or
Egyptian cotton. The anorak has a nylon mesh lining, which I cut off. The zipper
is obviously not period correct, but the anorak is much cheaper than the
available alternatives like those from Empire Canvas. It is also very thin, so
it packs up small. The one in the picture is size XL.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNO0bntOCYEWseE6llAFxZvuhv-LDFeyLw2CrU9Un2JBhU2UKWXVvBcTKYydh4Vfn_rdA-2ySUUsfSe4LiEmvpXYeDtg2PcPIbhxw5QcE6ziWwhLBynNU0DykGxeop8IO082t4f8sKwBY/s1600/IMG_5689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNO0bntOCYEWseE6llAFxZvuhv-LDFeyLw2CrU9Un2JBhU2UKWXVvBcTKYydh4Vfn_rdA-2ySUUsfSe4LiEmvpXYeDtg2PcPIbhxw5QcE6ziWwhLBynNU0DykGxeop8IO082t4f8sKwBY/s640/IMG_5689.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipjhWojAigp0sBGAs3auUehpMZa_QDxjTOcq_GBFYAGL9TyLiDMzuY4s3SIHlLWXVxlyj7LWti_05akR2tgWEXjYYehm5w5gH-fci3o413fwpuHkwx0IPB_THOUEZSFtVE5ghgJ5umtMA/s1600/IMG_5378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipjhWojAigp0sBGAs3auUehpMZa_QDxjTOcq_GBFYAGL9TyLiDMzuY4s3SIHlLWXVxlyj7LWti_05akR2tgWEXjYYehm5w5gH-fci3o413fwpuHkwx0IPB_THOUEZSFtVE5ghgJ5umtMA/s640/IMG_5378.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I like my clothing to be well fitted and minimal. I know this goes contrary to
many of the recommendations you see elsewhere, but I find that those are not
made in the context of backpacking.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In most instances where you see any discussion of wool and cotton clothing with
respect to the outdoors, it is either in the context of bushcraft where more
often than not we are talking about sedentary camping close to a road, or Snow
Walker type travel, traveling with the use of a sled along frozen rivers and
lakes. In both instances, you can afford to have loose and oversized clothing,
and lots of it.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When backpacking however, you need clothing that will allow you to move through
difficult terrain, and more importantly, which will be easily transportable in a
pack. No matter how cold it is, when you are backpacking, you will overheat. As
a result, almost all of your clothing will end up in your pack. For the majority
of the day you will be wearing only one or two shirts. The rest of the
insulation or shell layers will come out when you stop moving or if you get rain
or snow. Therefore, if it can not fit in a pack, it doesn’t come along. Blanket
shirts, large canvas anoraks, fur lines mittens, etc, are very nice to have, but
you can not afford them when you are backpacking. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lastly, since I always get the question, let me give you a brief comparison
between this clothing system and the modern one I use when not doing Classic
Backpacking. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When it comes to shell materials, the difference is not as significant from a
practical stand point as one might expect. A rubberized cotton coat is not as
good as a GoreTex one, but practically the difference is minor in terms of
material. If you are overheating while wearing either one, you will get wet from
perspiration. Such coats should be carried in the pack and only used when
needed. I have not been able to find a suitable coat made from rubberized
cotton, so I have chosen to go with a cotton one. It is not waterproof, but it
will shed a good amount of water in an emergency. It does a good job at keeping
the snow and wind away. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When it comes to insulation, there are some notable differences. If we leave all
of the marketing and hype aside, wool clothing is very similar to its fleece
alternative. Wool has the advantage of being more flame resistant, but it has
the disadvantage of much slower drying time. If you take the recommendations of
Kephart and Fordyce and waterproof the wool fibers, you will have a garment
almost identical to fleece from an insulation and bulk stand point. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
While non-compressible insulation like fleece and wool has its place, in
particular in very wet environments, it doesn’t offer anywhere near the amount
of insulation we get per weight and volume of fill based insulation like
Primaloft. To within certain degree, modern clothing can be replaced effectively
with wool clothing. When the temperature really starts to drop however, the task
becomes harder and harder. If in your regular clothing system you can use fleece
for a particular item, then wool will work fine as an alternative. If the item
is made of fill based insulation, replacing it with wool while keeping the same
bulk and weight will be impossible.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Just as with blankets, you can certainly gather enough wool clothing to keep you
warm; as warm as any modern clothing. The problem is transporting that clothing.
What you see above is the most I am willing to carry while backpacking. It is a
good set of clothing, and will allow me to function in relatively cold weather,
but it’s not as easy to transport as my normal clothing choices. That is why in
cold weather environments you see fur being substituted for wool, and sleds
being used to transport gear. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For a more scientific comparison between modern and early 20th century cold
weather clothing, check out the post <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/12/comparison-between-modern-and-early.html" target="_blank">here</a>. </div>
</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-60746896182456356472016-02-08T08:00:00.000-05:002016-02-08T08:00:29.841-05:00Classic Backpacking Gear: Small ItemsIn this gear post I want to go over all the remaining small items I use as part
of my <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a> equipment. The literature of this time
period is filled with a wide assortment of items that were carried. I’ve tried
to minimize what I use as much as possible, and my selections are in part based
on the items I am accustomed to using in my regular backpacking.<br />
<br />
In the picture below you can see two pouches containing all the remaining items
I carry. I have them next to my Mora #2 for size comparisons. The pouches are
made from Egyptian cotton that has been treated with boiled linseed oil. The
reason for the treatment is not to keep the items inside dry, but to keep the
pouches from absorbing water and getting covered with snow when I put them on
the ground.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_4wkqkOal0LFkEL2kxq3YqdXl9WmzAwmFUEw5bUPepTRyNswVE0KxwQI-I30XRPjh8PLvLyGPj1vvkzdnvpCG15eMptW0jxdkVwmF0X9YHGP4pDRZVWjWqzIKBUaA9lUD_25VcD4RPMg/s1600/IMG_5236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_4wkqkOal0LFkEL2kxq3YqdXl9WmzAwmFUEw5bUPepTRyNswVE0KxwQI-I30XRPjh8PLvLyGPj1vvkzdnvpCG15eMptW0jxdkVwmF0X9YHGP4pDRZVWjWqzIKBUaA9lUD_25VcD4RPMg/s640/IMG_5236.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The small pouch contains toilet paper and a cut down toothbrush. The second
pouch contains all the remaining items.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5EHE-JgPLpD_PYzWkMOHGkc2YtBtSysyS_2noIS8EvVPWvn4mDtADPsH8fpaFggOU8N6prCFjT3HliEUQhakCiKEn6oN1nGnW9rgiuZUlpsy20HcjwXQ-YsyqeneP52P8n0cDe7aLTHw/s1600/IMG_5170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5EHE-JgPLpD_PYzWkMOHGkc2YtBtSysyS_2noIS8EvVPWvn4mDtADPsH8fpaFggOU8N6prCFjT3HliEUQhakCiKEn6oN1nGnW9rgiuZUlpsy20HcjwXQ-YsyqeneP52P8n0cDe7aLTHw/s640/IMG_5170.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On top you have a flint and steel fire kit in a brass box. It is just a back up
fire lighting method for me. I carry it more for fun than anything else. By this
period in time, 1880 through 1930, the preferred method for fire lighting was
matches, not flint and steel.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Wherever one goes matches, knife, and axe should always accompany
him</em>.” Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot. 1916 p.89</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>As a rule you need three supplies of matches, the main store in a
friction-top, air-tight; the daily supply for pipe-smoking, etc., usually an
ordinary match-safe or some of the papers of waxed paste board matches; and,
finally, the emergency matches, always on your person and carried in a special
water-proof shell with the matches wrapped in a few folds of birch-bark
tinder.</em>” Warren Hastings Miller, Camp Craft, 1915 p.150</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Matches, knife, and a compass are the three indispensables.</em>” Stewart
Edward White, Camp and Trail, 1911 p.63</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lighters utilizing a wick were also available. However it appears they were only used as back up to the matches. “<em>A very convenient and
cheap emergency contrivance is the flint and steel pocket cigar lighter to be
had at most cigar stores. With it as a reserve you are sure of a fire no matter
how wet the catastrophe.”</em> Stewart Edward White, Camp and Trail, 1911 p.65 </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next to the flint and steel kit I have a DC4 sharpening stone. I use it both for
my knife and my hatchet or axe. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On the top right are several coils of cotton string that I use to pitch my tarp
and any other chores for which I need string.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On the bottom you have four blanket pins. They are the 4 inch type, and are more
period accurate than the round blanket pins you often see, which date from
earlier periods. A good example can be seen on p.69 of the 1907 Abercrombie
& Fitch Catalog. When I carry the down comforter with me, I bring four extra
pins along with it. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlmHSB_Exic0m7yVwKKuISsbyA7TGlYl0qVzhecK8eKCXUtZr1Bx2kZsBfVtpctamPsNm7Oak5D45LGA-a2vlh1z0VMs2zZdlcZQ-2An2uYp3wuglyvMyfrjzdixEuJXpgOXJXMb5eji4/s1600/Pins+AF+p69.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlmHSB_Exic0m7yVwKKuISsbyA7TGlYl0qVzhecK8eKCXUtZr1Bx2kZsBfVtpctamPsNm7Oak5D45LGA-a2vlh1z0VMs2zZdlcZQ-2An2uYp3wuglyvMyfrjzdixEuJXpgOXJXMb5eji4/s640/Pins+AF+p69.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next to the pins is a small glass bottle with a metal top, which holds all of my
pills. The bottle is from a Potable Aqua Iodine water purification kit. It is
the one that holds the taste neutralizing tablets.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the middle is my compass. It is a cheap replica I found on Amazon. It is made
of brass and is not liquid filled.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUUmPh1dJa15TiwY5D5NJHuVU2TCWbBRP_i2Iz9ugNxlpMsFFuhLJ3_zz2-EWxZKPejtostedP9ZmL0JT1bBTiVb5NTzCQbYAlQFv6tVX8BTiXRhIvLiKEmWBzqulnZLTvzQ7wukKqH4/s1600/IMG_5227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUUmPh1dJa15TiwY5D5NJHuVU2TCWbBRP_i2Iz9ugNxlpMsFFuhLJ3_zz2-EWxZKPejtostedP9ZmL0JT1bBTiVb5NTzCQbYAlQFv6tVX8BTiXRhIvLiKEmWBzqulnZLTvzQ7wukKqH4/s640/IMG_5227.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lastly, I have three Marble’s waterproof containers. They are cheap modern
versions, but in design and construction they are period correct.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Matches are carried in a Marble's waterproof case. I also carry a small
file and sharpening stone for the axe and some pieces of strong
cord.” </em>Elmer Harry Kreps, Camp and Trail Methods, 1910 p.223</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In two of the cases I carry strike anywhere matches. One container stays in my
pack, the other goes in my pocket along with the compass. The third container
holds my sewing kit. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKz53x7H-6tS4blrvfFyLIDrlYwnEXAv9BdtH-sDE514rGzoVREQpkhyphenhyphenD4QoIyV8Zga5uB0fdMVKbISoZi2aunPwxkC8nQbWUhKQSaFD1rx249znt9Us9NeaZGu9zRRBf_oJsZzqYh5o/s1600/IMG_5214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKz53x7H-6tS4blrvfFyLIDrlYwnEXAv9BdtH-sDE514rGzoVREQpkhyphenhyphenD4QoIyV8Zga5uB0fdMVKbISoZi2aunPwxkC8nQbWUhKQSaFD1rx249znt9Us9NeaZGu9zRRBf_oJsZzqYh5o/s640/IMG_5214.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Inside each of the cases holding the matches, I have some waxed jute twine,
which serves both as kindling as well as to keep the matches from moving around.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the sewing kit I have a few needles, some cotton string, and some artificial
sinew. The match box that I keep in my pocket has a string tied to it so that I
can recognize it.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
The weights of the items are as follows:<br />
<ul>
<li>Flint and Steel Kit …………………………………………………….... 5.3oz</li>
<li>Match Safe (Full) x 2 ………………………………………………....... 1.3oz each</li>
<li>Sewing Kit ……………………………………………………………... 1.1oz</li>
<li>Sharpening Stone ………………………………………………………. 2.7oz</li>
<li>Pill Bottle (Full) ………………………………………………………... 1.0oz</li>
<li>Compass ………………………………………………………………... 2.3oz</li>
<li>Rope ……………………………………………………………………. 2.8oz</li>
<li>Pins x 4 …………………………………………………………………. 0.3oz each</li>
<li>Toothbrush and Toilet Paper …………………………………………… 2.7oz</li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This wraps up the gear that I have been carrying so far on my Classic
Backpacking trips. There is a lot more gear that was available at the time, and
will write posts about it as I use it. The above items however, together with
the gear I have covered in my previous posts, has been sufficient for the trips
I have undertaken so far. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-55378280220356828792016-02-04T07:44:00.000-05:002016-02-04T07:49:04.197-05:00Classic Backpacking Gear: Pots, Cups, and CanteensThe next set of gear I would like to discuss in the context of <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a> is the cooking and water carrying system.
Some of the items are very similar to what we use today, others are not. Just
like with the cutting tools, the exact pieces of gear are a matter of personal
choice, so I will focus on what items were actually available and used during
the time period rather than on what any particular author used.<br />
<br />
<strong><u>Cups and Cooking Pots</u></strong><br />
<br />
The first thing that must be noted is that you will see a significant difference
in the sources between cooking pots and utensils used for non-movable camp as
opposed to those used for traveling on foot through the woods. It appears that
just like today, numerous kits were available, and one could find anything from
cast iron pots to reflector ovens. When traveling on foot however, most of that
was dispensed with, much as we do today.<br />
<br />
“<em>I take a small frying pan, No. 0 size, which has a square socket for using
a wood handle. It is Very light and takes up very little space. I also take a
small tinned pail or a quart can fitted with a hay wire bail. If I wish to have
a boiled meal occasionally I take a small tin kettle also, but when I wish to go
very light, I leave this article behind. Knife, fork and spoon are also
dispensed with. A flattened stick answers for a spoon, a pointed one makes a
good fork, and the sheath knife answers for cutting everything from slicing
bacon to whittling shavings to kindle a fire with.”</em> Elmer Harry Kreps, Camp
and Trail Methods, 1910 p.222<br />
<br />
Of course, everyone had their own idea of what comprised “minimal” gear: “<em>It
is easy to make up a good light weight set of utensils for two or more men (see
Vol. I. pp. 118-123), but a satisfactory one-man kit is another matter. The Boy
Scout sets do fairly well for a short outing when baked bread is carried, but
are inadequate for baking on the journey. A reflector is too cumbersome for a
lone woods-cruiser. Let him bake his bread and cakes in a frying-pan (see Vol.
I, pp. 344-345). This, calls for an 8 or 9-inch pan. Get one with folding handle
(detach able ones are easily lost), or take a common one, cut off all of the
handle but about inches, and rivet on this stub a semi-circular socket into
which you fit your stick for a handle when you go to cooking. For general use I
do not like aluminum frying pans, but when traveling afoot they are
satisfactory. A deep aluminum plate fits inside the pan in my kit, along with an
aluminum fork, white- metal dessert spoon, and a dish towel. When tied up
tightly in a light bag they do not rattle around. You want two little kettles
for cereals, dried fruit, tea or coffee, to mix dough in, and the like. A pot
that is broad and shallow boils water much sooner than one that is deep and
narrow, and it is easier to clean. The kettles must not be too big to stow in
the knapsack. Anyway, when one is going afoot he does not want to bother with
food that takes long boiling, and so has no use for a large kettle. I choose two
1 -quart aluminum buckets, which can be bought through any dealer in kitchen
ware, fill them with part of my foodstuffs, set them bottom to bottom, and tie
them tightly in a bag so that the covers will not come off. So there is no waste
space, for the food must go somewhere, anyway. The kettles are good protection
for perishables. Thus no sooty vessel goes inside another, and you have a
package of small diameter. A seamless tin cup is carried wherever convenient,
generally outside the pack, where it can be got at when one is thirsty. Aluminum
is much too hot for cup and spoon. The complete kit weighs just 2 lbs. 2 oz.
including bags. No table knife is carried, as I wear a sheath knife.”</em>
Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol II, 1918 (2nd edition, 1920) p. 103<br />
<br />
A wide range of materials was available when it came to pots, from tin to steel,
to aluminum, to enamel ware. Each woodsman had his preferences.<br />
<br />
“<em>Of materials tin and iron are the cheapest and they may be light enough.
Here their merits end. Iron will rust and neither iron nor tin will stand rough
handling. Utensils of such material are hard to clean when greasy and if the
joints be soldered one is kept in mortal fear of their early destruction… Enamel
ware is the easiest to keep clean and its poor heat conducting properties makes
it for some things preferable. It has a tendency to chip and flake under rough
handling or in cold weather… Aluminum alloy is a boon to the camper, it being
the ideal material for certain outdoor utensils. It stands up in all climates —
tropical, frigid north, in use on horseback trips, in canoe work, sledging or on
the hike. It is much the lightest material we have… Aluminum alloy has few
merits beyond lightness: it is a quick heat conductor, hence the cup had better
be of some other material such as enamel ware so as to save the lips from
blistering. Also under the application of dry heat to an aluminum fry pan the
food sticks and burns so the fry pan is preferably of light stamped steel.
However, where lightness is the great desideratum all parts of the cooking kit
should be made of aluminum alloy.”</em> Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916
p.119-120<br />
<br />
One big difference which can be noted between what was carried by writers during
the Classic Backpacking period and today is the use of a frying pan. Virtually
all of the authors at the time speak of the frying pan as an essential item. In
contrast, the item will rarely be seen in the outfit of a modern backpacker. The
reason appears to be that a century ago, woodsmen loved to bake bread. They all
speak about it at great lengths, and the frying pan was an essential tool even
for those traveling light. These days most backpackers have figured out that
bread can be replaced with rice or mashed potatoes, and the frying pan has gone
out of use. <br />
<br />
In the picture below you can see an assortment of pots, cups, and pans available
from the 1907 Abercrombie & Fitch Catalog on p.51.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjolafwQWsNdV2sKdC7G_yOdULzhaEr9PjSsroVmDUhxQ8EB2Y0c9SGh-03q99HES91AfPfhMODL7QRU2GQ5sALy2rq9T-PJd60TgYSc5J9hVQPESEo-VrcHzi3nV1Cpp8vjQkm-4vhHkw/s1600/Pots+p51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjolafwQWsNdV2sKdC7G_yOdULzhaEr9PjSsroVmDUhxQ8EB2Y0c9SGh-03q99HES91AfPfhMODL7QRU2GQ5sALy2rq9T-PJd60TgYSc5J9hVQPESEo-VrcHzi3nV1Cpp8vjQkm-4vhHkw/s640/Pots+p51.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In summary, cooking kits back in the Classic Backpacking period were as
numerous, as diverse, and as attractive to woodsmen as they are today. They
could be selected from a wide range of materials including tin, steel, enamel
ware, and aluminum. The pot, kettle, frying pan, and cup were popular items, and
the size of the kit depended on how light one needed to travel. The preferred
material appears to have been aluminum, except for cups, where less conductive
materials were a better choice.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong><u>Canteens</u></strong></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The issue of canteens is a tricky one. In this respect, the authors in the 1880
through 1930 period seem to differ significantly from our current accepted
practices. Specifically, water storage was not a significant consideration for
them. Some carried no canteen at all, and those who did usually settled for only
one. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>I have not included a water bottle, but, although I have never carried one,
there are a few places, such as the New Forest, where it would be most advisable
to take one.”</em> Thomas Hiram Holding, The Camper’s Handbook, 1908 p.374</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Canteens are nearly always a necessity in mountainous regions where your
work carries you on the ridges high above the valleys where the streams are. In
the desert a special water supply must be planned for. In ordinary hunting or
tramping trips the smaller Army canteen supplies the more urgent needs. Where
the water supply is contaminated it is necessary to boil and filter the water
for drinking. This can be done at mealtimes and then cooled and carried in the
canteen for use on the march. The purpose of the felt covering of the canteen is
to keep the contents cool by the evaporation from the wetted felt.”</em> Claude
P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916 p.122</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>One may travel where water is hard to find, though this seldom is the case
in a timbered region. The best canteen is one of aluminum, which neither leaks
nor rusts like the old-fashioned tin affairs. It should have a canvas cover with
felt lining. When the felt is wet its moisture cools the water in the canteen by
evaporation. The canvas cover prevents too rapid evaporation, and keeps the
canteen from wetting one's clothing. At night, or in case of illness, the thing
can be used as a hot-water bottle, the insulation keeping the water hot for a
considerable time. The best pattern is the present regulation army canteen,
which is shaped like a flat flask, but with one side rounded a little and the
other concaved to fit the body. It has a flat bottom, so you can stand it up.
The aluminum screw-cap, held by a chain, cannot jolt out like the corks of
common canteens.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol II, 1918 (2nd
edition, 1920) p.134</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The only reference I have found to needing to carry more water, and specifically
how to do it, is a paragraph written by Kephart: “<em>In mountaineering it often
happens that one plans to camp on or near the summit, and wants to carry water
with him from some head spring, to save a long climb down after it. A large
canteen would be cumbersome. A half-gallon rubber water-bottle solves the
problem. It weighs less than a pound, and takes up little room in the pack. In
cold weather, such a bottle, filled with hot water, may save packing the weight
and bulk of an extra blanket.” </em>Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol
II, 1918 (2nd edition, 1920) p.135</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
From reading through the texts, I have extrapolated several theories. One is
that woodsmen at the time primarily stayed to areas where water was readily
available. That would allow for the use of a single canteen or no canteen at
all. While Fordyce mentions boiling one’s water when in camp and then carrying
it in a canteen, doing that with just a single canteen when traveling for a full
day is not exactly practical unless more, untreated water can be found and used
along the way. Two, there is a notable lack of discussion about water storage
and winter travel. While Kephart talks about using the bottle as a hot water
bottle in cold weather, it seems very academic, with little discussion about the
issue that come up with such canteens in cold weather. As someone who has used
canteens from this time period, I can tell you that there is a lot of
information left out with respect to cold weather use. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now, let’s look at some more specific examples of available canteens. Let’s
start with the one used by Kephart himself. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDH9M3S4BQ2k2T2Ogt4S3yMQtxEumbOWOvvVRTo9f6wQ3LPu2n9DR9iEscH1ei149V75lPfTUS3ra4Un27VL_miEitfezuPC-8zQzm6IMh2lDoTk_tIxMDYCaRTvsK4WgGwt2nLCe1L5A/s1600/download1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDH9M3S4BQ2k2T2Ogt4S3yMQtxEumbOWOvvVRTo9f6wQ3LPu2n9DR9iEscH1ei149V75lPfTUS3ra4Un27VL_miEitfezuPC-8zQzm6IMh2lDoTk_tIxMDYCaRTvsK4WgGwt2nLCe1L5A/s640/download1.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It is a complete kit. The exact same kit can be seen on p.58 of the 1907
Abercrombie & Fitch Catalog.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
From a functional standpoint there are two types of canteens that were available
and widely used during the Classic Backpacking period of 1880 through 1930.
During the earlier period the most widely available canteens would have been
Civil War surplus similar to the one in the picture below, belonging to Kephart.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2LW3TlN-eBEAdKmvZNWyFPTmvp3qR1IjeWmwIMYG8CaUlqEchSkHpczQqupBOwGf9sbrCugvLRwmmRdw3m5g7o1NwNWBUX9yPSOLf1iw4j79MyosIzrN6eUTa0pvtjcVAkAJbAit1GyA/s1600/canteen+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2LW3TlN-eBEAdKmvZNWyFPTmvp3qR1IjeWmwIMYG8CaUlqEchSkHpczQqupBOwGf9sbrCugvLRwmmRdw3m5g7o1NwNWBUX9yPSOLf1iw4j79MyosIzrN6eUTa0pvtjcVAkAJbAit1GyA/s640/canteen+2.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
These canteens were made of tined or enamel steel and later aluminum. They
featured a cork stopper.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In 1903 the British Mark VI canteens entered the market, and were widely
available especially in Europe. They were made of blue enamel steel and had a
cork stopper. Just like the above Civil War canteens, they had a felt lining
designed to cool the canteen through evaporation in hot weather.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In 1910 the US Army adopted the M1910 canteen. It is the one referred to by
Kephart in the above quote. Unlike its predecessors, it utilized a threaded
screw-on aluminum cap. Similar German canteens were also available in Europe
during this time. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the 1940s the US Army transitioned to a plastic screw-on cap for the M1910
bottles. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcV8jZK1jWYgOyOzMLbpVFKw8GTZ5YJAVVa1KCwbRquI5eqrLif6hZYa_pDH8kHMEzWXQZShfpf8j7p8CGJbypsH9lmmNjy8FPuLOtBm45Bdwugiwx4MIk_PTqhsFQ4TNQHyT4cOMakMc/s1600/IMG_5508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcV8jZK1jWYgOyOzMLbpVFKw8GTZ5YJAVVa1KCwbRquI5eqrLif6hZYa_pDH8kHMEzWXQZShfpf8j7p8CGJbypsH9lmmNjy8FPuLOtBm45Bdwugiwx4MIk_PTqhsFQ4TNQHyT4cOMakMc/s640/IMG_5508.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the above pictures you see examples of two period correct canteens (left and
center) and the one I am currently using (right).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The one on the left is a Mark VII canteen. It is a later production run than the
Mark VI, but for all practical purposes is nearly identical to the 1903
versions. These are widely available on the market. As you can see, it has a
cork stopped. Overall it is a good bottle, but I’ve resisted using it because it
is horrible to use in cold weather. The felt lining inevitably gets wet and then
turns into ice. The narrow opening freezes very quickly, and the cork stopper
absorbs water and freezes in place. If you are planning on using such bottle in
cold weather, replace the cork stopper with a solid wood one. It will not hold
as well, but it will be less likely to freeze shut. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The middle bottle is a M1910 model. It is a version produced in 1916. The
original 1910 versions had a cap that had a flat top. As mentioned by Kephart,
the screw-on top is an improvement over the cork one. If you can find such a
bottle in good condition, it would be a great choice. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The bottle on the right is a Laken Clasica 34 oz Water Bottle. They are
currently in production and will cost you about $15. I’ve discarded the cover
that comes with the canteen. In most respects it is functionally similar to the
M1910 bottles. It is good quality and I think it is much better than the replica
army aluminum bottles that you see elsewhere. The shape is also reminiscent of
designs during this period. It is not period correct in that it uses a plastic
cap, which would not have been in use until the 1940s. The reason why I
decided to use the Laken canteen instead of my M1910 bottle is that I know that
for most people who maybe interested in doing this, it is very hard to find a
M1910 bottle with aluminum cap in good condition, and certainly not for an
affordable price.So, I wanted to give another, readily available option. While
the plastic cap is an improvement, it is not large enough to significantly alter
the experience. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong><u>My Choices</u></strong></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigqhGxZTAph9WvScgQ8arZf4P2t0bIcuSCDEiOliKffL7jSsO-A-yJdVqRHwJyIOLNrjtgfHaITGlKFSLdQTT9P5PMwvv-MYeFEPOt4hjOBylVcHMf9QH6M-QNmertNpCh8Q6cCCyGS8Q/s1600/IMG_5011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigqhGxZTAph9WvScgQ8arZf4P2t0bIcuSCDEiOliKffL7jSsO-A-yJdVqRHwJyIOLNrjtgfHaITGlKFSLdQTT9P5PMwvv-MYeFEPOt4hjOBylVcHMf9QH6M-QNmertNpCh8Q6cCCyGS8Q/s640/IMG_5011.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I’ve already mentioned why I chose the Laken canteen in my discussion above. It
holds a quart of water and weight 6.5oz.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My pot is an Open Country 2 quart aluminum pot. It is cheap, readily available,
and weighs 7.7oz. It also has the added benefit of being virtually identical to
the ports in the 1907 Abercrombie & Fitch Catalog.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For the cup I went with a GSI enamel ware cup. It weighs 3.8oz. It is heavier
than the aluminum equivalent, but it reminds me of a cup I used to use when I
was young, so I like it. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The spoon is just a regular tea spoon. It weighs 0.9oz. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Unlike many most of the authors in the Classic Backpacking period, I have not
included a frying pan in my kit. For many years now I have managed without one,
and I don’t see a need for it now. I’m not interested in baking bread, and if I
was to try it, I’m sure I can come up with different methods. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong><u>Water Purification</u></strong></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
While I am on the topic of canteens and pots, I might as well touch on the
subject of water purification. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As I have noted previously, water purification was not a major topic of
conversation during this period. Fordyce mentions boiling one’s water when in
camp, but that’s about it, and only when the water source was “polluted”. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There seems to have been some thought given to removing turbidity from the
water. In one of the above pictures, next to the early model canteen, there
seems to be something like a Milbank bag, and in catalogs there were more
elaborate filtration contraptions. On p.73 of the 1907 Abercrombie & Fitch
Catalog you can see the following contraption:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjo0hTYPCNqj8RZ6sDAaQffkp8Pc7ZLlJlf_ZYwqi7XmM5PjqkR1A2n8VmxpLU3lJi69vftOLuGr0sQJ211ixW4u7l_oGGAAvnHrJla7YW1NrxyEuCHKjCACIEQnIvW6poKVncn_SDsAI/s1600/Filter+p73.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjo0hTYPCNqj8RZ6sDAaQffkp8Pc7ZLlJlf_ZYwqi7XmM5PjqkR1A2n8VmxpLU3lJi69vftOLuGr0sQJ211ixW4u7l_oGGAAvnHrJla7YW1NrxyEuCHKjCACIEQnIvW6poKVncn_SDsAI/s640/Filter+p73.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The idea is similar to modern
filter bottles, but it was only designed to filter out turbidity. It did not
purify the water or filter out bacteria or protozoa. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
While chemicals like iodine and chlorine existed at the time, they were not used
in water purification. Iodine was developed as a purification method in the
1940s by the Army.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, the only period correct method for actually purifying one’s water is
through boiling. For those of us who are trying to do this these days, and are
not willing to risk drinking unpurified water, this creates a serious challenge.
For people on the move, it is not practical to stop and boil water whenever you
need it and wherever you find it. Carrying a single canteen adds to the problem
because it makes it hard to boil all of your water at night and carry enough of
it for a full day until you set up your next camp. It is a tricky issue and I
have not been able to find a good solution. So far I have managed fine, where
the days are only 10 hours long, and the temperatures are cool. I’m not sure how
well that will do in the summer. I could just get a rubber bladder like Kephart
recommends, although I might just end up with a second canteen if the pack can
fit it. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-55227633945219038052016-02-01T16:34:00.004-05:002016-02-02T07:59:17.845-05:00Trip Report: Classic Backpacking 1/30/16 - 1/31/16<div class="MsoNormal">
"<i>Surely, when one is going on a camping trip he does not
desire to live just as he would at home, for in my opinion much of the pleasure
of camping is derived from taking things just as we find them, of sleeping on a
bed of boughs rather than on a cot, sitting on an old log rather than on a
folding camp chair, and of eating off of the ground rather than from a table,
in fact I think that most of the pleasure is in the novelty of the thing. And
to the practical woodsman, this camp furniture is an abomination.</i>" Elmer Harry Kreps, 1910 </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
Again, I know not everyone is interested in these trip reports, and I usually
try to give you only one per month, but I’ve been writing more of them because I
want to keep you updated on what I’m doing as I am trying to figure out this <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a> thing I’ve undertaken.<br />
<br />
My drive behind this most recent trip was to figure out a better sleep system.
After my last trip it became clear to me that camping out with just a blanket,
even if it’s a very good one, is not doable when the temperature is much below
32F (0C). While you can stay alive with the use of a fire, sleep becomes almost
impossible as you spend your nights trying to maintain the fire, as your warmth
is directly and immediately connected to it.<br />
<br />
After my last trip Steve Watts recommended that I try a down comforter. They
were in fact used at the time, and a cotton shell comforter, filled with goose
or duck down, with sewn threw baffles would be period correct. “<em>There is no
doubt that, for comfort, economy of space, lightness, and simplicity, the down
quilt has it.</em>” Thomas Hiram Holding, The Camper’s Handbook, 1908 p.163<br />
<br />
References to down quilts, comforters, and even bag designs can be found in the
writings of most authors at the time. By the 1920s most well funded expeditions
relied on down sleeping bags. Between the 1880s and the 1930, sleep systems
evolved very quickly and by the 1940s down sleeping bags like the A. H. Ellis & Co down filled “Nordenskiöld” bag with water-resistant cover was available.<br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> </span><br />
I have been resisting the use of a down comforter for two reasons. One, I wanted
to see what could be done just with the traditional one blanket. Two, even
though it was available, none of the authors seem to recommend it as their
primary form of insulation. They seemed to resort to wool sleeping bags, woven
fur blankets, etc, but none of them appear to have abandoned their other systems
for a down filled comforter or sleeping bag.<br />
<br />
But, furs are not a realistic option for backpacking, and a woven fur blanket
that might be light enough is cost prohibitive. Wool blankets clearly weren’t
going to do it, and I’m just not excited about doing too many cold weather trips
where I have to be up all night feeding a fire. I also figured, if it’s good
enough for the guy teaching classes on Kephart, it’s good enough for me.<br />
<br />
So, I went to a local department store, and bought a cotton shell down
comforter. It’s the thickest, cheapest, and smallest one I could find: twin
size. I went home, made a stuff sack for it from a pillow case, strapped it to
my pack, and headed out.<br />
<br />
Then came my next big problem. As bad as the weather was last week, this week in
my area we have been having temperatures as high as 40F (4C) during the days.
Not exactly a good test for the comforter. I decided to drive north for a few
hours in the hope that the weather would be cooler there. It was slightly
better. When I headed into the woods, it was 24F (-4C). What I didn’t anticipate
was how little snow there had been further north from me. There were barely any
patches on the ground. It was disappointing, and a bit strange considering I was
further north. I decided that because of the nice weather I should add some more
difficulty to the trip, and camp out in an area of the forest where I only had
hard woods.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj87cxikp__3BywC8VQ25hGm83GjXtx8isPfMj3Czp9rhxsrhnPM8s3ixU7QQTOasGMhb8Bf-i8VMhB-yu8G9rc5r2ucFl-f6C1_Zl7kEjBknPY1I-z0l0W4fMTmy1oJZBOXuFKPIONCY/s1600/IMG_5529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj87cxikp__3BywC8VQ25hGm83GjXtx8isPfMj3Czp9rhxsrhnPM8s3ixU7QQTOasGMhb8Bf-i8VMhB-yu8G9rc5r2ucFl-f6C1_Zl7kEjBknPY1I-z0l0W4fMTmy1oJZBOXuFKPIONCY/s640/IMG_5529.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Shortly after starting out I had to cross a decent size stream. Water level was
high because of the warm weather. I stopped there for lunch and then did a
pretty stupid crossing. I should have looked for a better spot to cross.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrBBxZekFFpSN16LVuuG1BPK3W-5xbRgyxcYiucw_yJcxm1OPHhHXwqQnYGGtJIumVjYPIbDZFbn1m9wB0fELM80aht35gwCrQnHy6h7K_4jXqenT2iJKryFJo5i5D7HohbbZyXOWWzuc/s1600/IMG_5530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrBBxZekFFpSN16LVuuG1BPK3W-5xbRgyxcYiucw_yJcxm1OPHhHXwqQnYGGtJIumVjYPIbDZFbn1m9wB0fELM80aht35gwCrQnHy6h7K_4jXqenT2iJKryFJo5i5D7HohbbZyXOWWzuc/s640/IMG_5530.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Crossing done, I spent a few hours backpacking. The drive had taken up most of
the morning, so I didn’t have much time. When I found a level patch of ground in
a hardwood forest, I got to setting up my camp.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Since I was in an exposed location, and winds were going to be a problem, I
opted for a more sheltered tarp set up. I kept it open while cooking in the
evening by flipping one of the sides over. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbfQGc5T9ywUcTSWak355eKNVzqnFosnG6-9tSIJkGwKPuVNHZHuMRKZl-BNz1fH7xOMd5EszRrpW-v3POUeLMXj3J4fPjL9VdUBtDvQhYL83frJ_z9_qKLVmtil9b75k_utBd_sOJpqE/s1600/IMG_5566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbfQGc5T9ywUcTSWak355eKNVzqnFosnG6-9tSIJkGwKPuVNHZHuMRKZl-BNz1fH7xOMd5EszRrpW-v3POUeLMXj3J4fPjL9VdUBtDvQhYL83frJ_z9_qKLVmtil9b75k_utBd_sOJpqE/s640/IMG_5566.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had my wool blanket with me. I folded it over and used it as a ground pad. At
first I pulled some dead leafs together, but they were wet, and I decided to
rely primarily on the blanket. Folded in two it’s almost as thick as a regular
closed cell foam pad.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It quickly became apparent why authors during the Classic Backpacking period
were reluctant to rely on down quilts. We all understand that down is
problematic around moisture, but we, or at least I, forget how good modern shell
materials really are. While not waterproof, modern down sleeping bags have
shells that will resist a lot of moisture. The cotton shell on the down
comforter does nothing of the sort. The moment it touches any moisture, it gets
absorbed immediately. At first I thought of using different configurations with
the blanket, but the blanket had to be on the ground to make sure the comforter
doesn’t touch the damp ground. It’s a serious limitation that I have to work
around. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Before going to sleep I staked down the second part of the shelter, and wrapped
myself in the quilt as I would in a blanket.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7_9Hw9A4ejhXQ1HkHdS4pvuM0KjwMzpoDVNuGb25G0rvszfCY_yuXVCMrDyNQNRT_ks3VllsH7DTUaVAaqZmy5tBQMd_uGGmSvK0SORI_NsMVBg4-9zemJ1xovBZeH70TP0D5YwXfyLM/s1600/IMG_5601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7_9Hw9A4ejhXQ1HkHdS4pvuM0KjwMzpoDVNuGb25G0rvszfCY_yuXVCMrDyNQNRT_ks3VllsH7DTUaVAaqZmy5tBQMd_uGGmSvK0SORI_NsMVBg4-9zemJ1xovBZeH70TP0D5YwXfyLM/s640/IMG_5601.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
During the night it got down to about 18F (-8C). Not cold, but cool enough to
test the comforter. It performed very well. Obviously it’s much warmer than a
wool blanket. I slept through the night without the use of a fire.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There were some issues though. The wool blanket was not perfect as a ground pad.
It worked fine, but I still felt some cold from the ground. I suppose I still
need to use some bedding even with the folded wool blanket. Also, even though I
had pitched the shelter to cut into the wind, as it usually is, the wind was
blowing from every direction. The down comforter, while warm, is not
particularly resistant to wind, and the wind cuts right through it. As a result
I got cold several times and had to adjust. Overall though, not a bad night. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the morning I made my way out. I went a considerable distance off my previous
path in order to cross the stream further up at an easier location. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjczdcZBNUnuwJfrOali_4zbbKbmYtByVgLzp-UKhu7Ofk1UxjE4dYQQlN6EcBM0tkk_zjv7N8Wtb8ed2_6MlGa-Vc94nr0q1T807j6EXVse0JDGaEG9mdUlGqh3t0iW9lEWbnL9WRbv94/s1600/IMG_5641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjczdcZBNUnuwJfrOali_4zbbKbmYtByVgLzp-UKhu7Ofk1UxjE4dYQQlN6EcBM0tkk_zjv7N8Wtb8ed2_6MlGa-Vc94nr0q1T807j6EXVse0JDGaEG9mdUlGqh3t0iW9lEWbnL9WRbv94/s640/IMG_5641.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The down comforter turned out to be a pretty big success. Together with the
blanket, using the blanket as ground insulation and protection from the
moisture, it once again opened up the possibility of doing actual cold weather
backpacking with traditional gear. The comforter is bulky, weighs 4lb 3oz, and
the stuff sack and four extra blanket pins weigh an additional 4oz. It is very
susceptible to moisture and doesn’t stop the wind too well. That however is a
small price to pay for being able to sleep through the night.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, that’s it. I just wanted to give you an update on the changes I have been
making to my sleep system. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-60323663185512768092016-01-29T08:51:00.001-05:002016-02-02T08:44:23.998-05:00Classic Backpacking Gear: Cutting ToolsIn this post I want to focus on butting tools which would have been available to
and used by woodsmen during the <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a> period of 1880 through 1930. As with
shelters, actual choices by particular woodsmen or authors are not particularly
significant because the chosen tools are a very personal thing to each
individual and reflect as much the person’s tastes as they do the practical
aspects of the tools. Therefore, the information I want to provide here is
focused more on what would constitute period correct tool from which you can
make your selection if you are interested in the activity.<br />
<br />
<strong><u>Axes and Hatchets</u></strong><br />
<strong><u><br /></u></strong>
Let’s start with the axe, perhaps the most important cutting tool. <em>“On the
ax more than on anything else depends the comfort and success of the northern
forest traveler, whatever his calling. He may, to lighten his load, discard all
of the articles in his outfit which are not absolutely essential, but never by
any chance is the ax among those cast aside, because this tool is the most
necessary and the most useful article used by the bushman. Not a day passes that
the ax is not put to strenuous use, and on the trap line nearly every hour of
the day finds the ax at work, smoothing the rough path of the traveler and
providing for his comfort and welfare</em>.” Elmer Harry Kreps, Woodcraft, 1919
p. 52<br />
<br />
The first thing to consider would be what exactly constitutes a period correct
axe or hatchet.<br />
<br />
Starting in the 1750s, the axe went through some significant changes, giving us
axes we recognize today. Starting with a tomahawk-like axe, with round eye and
long bit, the axe progressed into the American Felling Axe which came do
dominate the market ever since. In the picture below you see three axes. The
first axe on the left is an example of a 1850s axe, the second is a 1890s W.C.
Kelly Perfect axe, and the one of the right is a 1940s modern Plumb axe.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwpQiBz_Se1c7Fo4YxtzF2BQ8O9puJYf7HKLsWfxkYT9vT0xSDnXX6O3XN7vgGOhjcR_5Jhn6GlRDmhkZca_oGxCkc7U7sIoPntQ6sF1Bdukz5DwhhvTFc_OvN-majhWzbaSveKMaPDs4/s1600/IMG_5472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwpQiBz_Se1c7Fo4YxtzF2BQ8O9puJYf7HKLsWfxkYT9vT0xSDnXX6O3XN7vgGOhjcR_5Jhn6GlRDmhkZca_oGxCkc7U7sIoPntQ6sF1Bdukz5DwhhvTFc_OvN-majhWzbaSveKMaPDs4/s640/IMG_5472.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkrh0KAJDxUwbFVXLhoRF9XBgrQjyWVCDyvAoB-LCjJB3YrMU5adipB3dghcRdP52CwYbYNRmM3TGFMMINVXOyk7ktZpa-TGBEkP1qlswkY_bW0p_g_N7qmRYhUPNekQEmipIJRSArM9g/s1600/IMG_5488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkrh0KAJDxUwbFVXLhoRF9XBgrQjyWVCDyvAoB-LCjJB3YrMU5adipB3dghcRdP52CwYbYNRmM3TGFMMINVXOyk7ktZpa-TGBEkP1qlswkY_bW0p_g_N7qmRYhUPNekQEmipIJRSArM9g/s640/IMG_5488.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
There are certainly differences in the axes starting from the 1850s and going
through the 1940s. You can see a more in dept discussion about them <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/11/axe-head-geometry-phantom-bevels-and.html" target="_blank">here</a>. The bottom line however is that most modern axe designs
will fit perfectly well within this time period. You don’t have to look for
anything out of the ordinary.<br />
<br />
You can see an example of available axes on p.67 of the 1907 Abercrombie &
Fitch Catalog. They are clearly a completely modern design.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kMZBWHTnhzv-Siq1PakJcv0ejPzYQEiPkGAW6y-SMjXFXG9tSigtrzyeYN31oaiE-ZHlwzTqc-gfp7gu6_DMVfbe2wVCbqLYGwNkL8FzCoTT0zjnrrnvmfCvZmUbY7rW9WO9pr-a-BI/s1600/Axes+AF+p67.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kMZBWHTnhzv-Siq1PakJcv0ejPzYQEiPkGAW6y-SMjXFXG9tSigtrzyeYN31oaiE-ZHlwzTqc-gfp7gu6_DMVfbe2wVCbqLYGwNkL8FzCoTT0zjnrrnvmfCvZmUbY7rW9WO9pr-a-BI/s640/Axes+AF+p67.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Abercrombie & Fitch were not big axe distributors, nor did they manufacture
their own axes. I believe the axes were actually made by Mann Edge Tool Co. Even
so, this is an example showing that in 1907 the available axes were largely
modern in design.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Similarly, a design shown by Elmer Harry Kreps on p.55 of his 1919 book
Woodcraft shows a modern axe design.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrm_Ctc6HKdGPr0G1HByRyaeGvL0KaMwqLL0VPLjkO3HzxMJg6zftofCAvzWA02hh0TngkYr_Vyu8zggfFKx422uafBc5fWTtw9VCEO4_YnWqMDMkcmGYde557DBJJaRyBxCK8ET7EXw/s1600/Kreps+Woodcraft+Axe+p55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrm_Ctc6HKdGPr0G1HByRyaeGvL0KaMwqLL0VPLjkO3HzxMJg6zftofCAvzWA02hh0TngkYr_Vyu8zggfFKx422uafBc5fWTtw9VCEO4_YnWqMDMkcmGYde557DBJJaRyBxCK8ET7EXw/s640/Kreps+Woodcraft+Axe+p55.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Of course, the issue then comes up of exactly what type of axe to use: size,
handle length and type, etc. As I mentioned above, the choice is a very personal
one to each woodsman, and each of the authors on whom I’m relying his a
different idea of what makes the perfect axe.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The one thing that all the authors have in common is that none of them recommend
a full size axe for anything other than a large camp with transportation other
than backpacking. There is no question that a full size axe gets the work
finished faster, but carrying around such a tool on your back is more of a
fashion statement than a practical use of your resources. “<em>A full-sized axe
should be carried, in cold weather, if means of transportation permit. Its head
need not weigh over 3 or 3 pounds, but let the handle be of standard 36-inch
length for a full- arm sweep. A single-bitt is best for campers, as the poll is
useful for driving stakes, knocking off pine knots, to rive timber (striking
with a mallet), and as an anvil (bitt stuck in a log or stump).”</em> Horace
Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918 (2nd edition, 1920) p.113</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For backpacking purposes, the recommendations varied depending on the author,
ranging from a small hatchet to a boy’s size axe. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For warm weather Kephart preferred a hatchet. You will sometimes see him refer
to it as a tomahawk, but it’s not an actual tomahawk, its a hatchet. Tomahawks
were not in general use around that time and would not have been carried by
anyone other than for nostalgic reasons. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>A woodsman should carry a hatchet, and he should be as critical in
selecting it as in buying a gun. The notion that a heavy hunting knife can do
the work of a hatchet is a delusion. When it comes to cleaving carcasses,
chopping kindling, blazing thick-barked trees, driving tent pegs or trap stakes,
and keeping up a bivouac fire, the knife never was made that will compare with a
good tomahawk. The common hatchets of the hardware stores are unfit for a
woodsman's use. They have broad blades with beveled edge, and they are generally
made of poor, brittle stuff. A camper's hatchet should have the edge and temper
of a good axe. It must be light enough to carry in or on one's knap sack, yet it
should bite deep in timber. The best hatchet I have used (and it has been with
me in the mountains for seven or eight years) is one shown in Fig. 103, except
that the handle is a straight one, 17-inch, that I made myself. Its weight, with
leather sheath, is 1 lb. 10 oz.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol
I, 1918 (2nd edition, 1920) p.165-166</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have omitted the the drawing Kephart provided in the book (you can of course
look at it for yourself) because we know the model hatchet that he actually
used. It was manufactured by Colchester Bros. of Eldorado, PA. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt89PBL3QyMmRk26GQVFmXc9ohetoJlH3-oxU05WHqtiC4bN9zLUxFiTchsVlsf2UHmhF6cq4_neb7Dx66Mh0W4GKYwJYt2xbWM5-3TKicdIdbRdB3OTWue2vqQDVkAzbL7jl0f1MezZA/s1600/kephartad3ax.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="744" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt89PBL3QyMmRk26GQVFmXc9ohetoJlH3-oxU05WHqtiC4bN9zLUxFiTchsVlsf2UHmhF6cq4_neb7Dx66Mh0W4GKYwJYt2xbWM5-3TKicdIdbRdB3OTWue2vqQDVkAzbL7jl0f1MezZA/s640/kephartad3ax.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the above picture, acquired from the West Carolina University Hunter Library
Special Collection, you can also see a version of the Nessmuk double but pocket
axe that he preferred.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For winter travel he recommended a larger axe. “The short axe may be of Hudson
Bay or Damascus pattern. There should be a small mill file to keep it in order,
besides the whetstone.” Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol II, 1918 (2nd
edition, 1920) p.144 He lists the axe as weighing 1lb 12oz. I don’t know if that
is the weight of the head, or the full axe. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Other woodsmen like E.H. Kreps recommend a larger axe for year round use. You
have already seen the drawing he provided above. “<em>For the northern forest
and the western mountain district the ax that I would recommend would weigh only
about two pounds, handle not included in the weight. Some of you may think this
entirely too light, but the northern Indians use axes of only one and a half
pounds, and find them heavy enough for practical purposes, while light to carry
on the trail. To make a light ax effective, however, it must have a long handle.
An ax like this should have a handle of from thirty to thirty-four inches over
all, and with such a tool you will be surprised to see what heavy work can be
done.</em>” Elmer Harry Kreps, Woodcraft, 1919 p.56</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lastly, much has been said about about the shape of an axe handle in recent
years. Unfortunately, in 1981, Dudley Cook published a book titled Keeping Warm
With an Axe, which was later re-published as The Ax Book in 1999. While the book
is generally excellent, it contains a discussion on the “best” shape for axe
handles. Mr. Cook clearly prefers straight handles on his axes, and there is
nothing wrong with that. Unfortunately however, he felt the need to justify his
personal preference by presenting some extremely low quality geometry and
physics as “proof” that a straight handle is more accurate and allows you to
swing harder. While his theory is laughably poor, it did spark a following of
internet axmen, who now have for years perpetuated the absurd statements made by
Dudley Cook. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, let me say this about the shape of axe handles: An S-shaped handle is no
less accurate than a straight handle, and allows you to swing the axe with just
as much power. In fact, the S-shaped handle gives you better feedback as to the
angle of the bit. This deficiency of the straight handle can be compensated for
by using an octagonal handle rather than a rounded one which will give you a
better feel for how the handle is turning in your hands. Octagonal handles are
not needed for S-shaped designs because there the curvature does the job. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Kephart appears to have preferred straight handles, or at least was fine with
them. “<em>In making a new axe-helve, do not bother to make a crooked one like
the store pattern. Thousands of expert axemen use, from preference, straight
handles in their axes — single-bitted axes at that. In making a new axe-helve,
do not bother to make a crooked one like the store pattern. I have seen such
handles full four feet long, to be used chiefly in logging-up big trees. Two
feet eight inches is long enough for ordinary chopping.</em>” Horace Kephart,
Camping and Woodcraft Vol II, 1918 (2nd edition, 1920) p.188-189</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Kreps preferred a S-shaped handle. “<em>Did you ever wonder why an ax handle is
curved in an S shape? It is made to fit the hands of the user without strain on
the arms or wrists, and this curved shape enables him to hold the ax more
solidly when striking a blow than could be done with a straight handle. The
handle should be quite thick and "hand-fitting" near the end where it is grasped
by the left hand (or right, according to whether the user is right or left
handed), but the other part should be shaped so the hand can slide easily back
and forth while chopping.”</em> Elmer Harry Kreps, Woodcraft, 1919 p.57</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The issue of straight handle vs. S-shaped handle is one of personal preference,
and arguing that one is better than the other is the same as arguing that a
Michigan pattern axe head is better than a Yankee patter axe head. It is
something you should leave for internet woodsmen, as it does not concern people
who actually spend any time in the woods. Both handle designs existed during the
time period of 1880 through 1930, and both are equally effective.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, to summarize, if you are interested in Classic Backpacking, any modern
design axe, ranging in size from a hatchet to a boy’s size axe, with a straight
or curved handle, will fit the bill. Smaller axes and hatchets have the benefit
of being more portable, while larger axes get the job done faster and with less
energy. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong><u>Knives</u></strong></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When it comes to knives, most of the American authors of the time period seem to
have taken after the example set by Nessmuk. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>A word as to knife, or knives. These are of prime necessity, and should be
of the best, both as to shape and temper. The "bowies" and "hunting knives"
usually kept on sale, are thick, clumsy affairs, with a sort of ridge along the
middle of the blade, murderous looking, but of little use; rather fitted to
adorn a dime novel or the belt of "Billy the Kid," than the outfit of the
hunter. The one shown in the cut is thin in the blade, and handy for skinning,
cutting meat, or eating with. The strong double-bladed pocket knife is the best
model I have yet found, and, in connection with the sheath knife, is all
sufficient for camp use</em>.” George Washington Sears, Woodcraft, 1892 p.13</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The majority of the wood working seems to have been done with a folding pocket
knife. The belt knife was usually a butchering type knife and was reserved for
game and food processing and typically had a blade between 4 and 6 inches in
length. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A popular design for a fixed blade knife was a common butcher's knife, as can be
seen on p.146 of the 1907 Abercrombie & Fitch Catalog.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhBihnXt3vpZsjnw6-PZVXcZC3ZTeXunTRdmgM2iVl_DIytkurazygtT-PYdZ_6ygAFs1DdFJ_J93ZdKS8VGFjFNEWNgvAnD4OW-XBZoypAY6GADE5-l5i5TdAH8ozTOnEfHlCzfhwOs/s1600/Knife+2+AF+p146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhBihnXt3vpZsjnw6-PZVXcZC3ZTeXunTRdmgM2iVl_DIytkurazygtT-PYdZ_6ygAFs1DdFJ_J93ZdKS8VGFjFNEWNgvAnD4OW-XBZoypAY6GADE5-l5i5TdAH8ozTOnEfHlCzfhwOs/s640/Knife+2+AF+p146.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Such a design can currently be found in the Russell Green River Hunting Knives.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoohNRdEXvuPLQ7bqpoZmnJx4nlERFYTiKNny7wfwA8ghZHtpXpcquHMK9RWs2sj6ReogQ1oz8UTkcZ8gW3-1xJpdaoYLcKtMuv1-il8EPHaiiyJ8VsiAbHxRB0hj-EVodB0luGZ7ODu0/s1600/110%255B3%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoohNRdEXvuPLQ7bqpoZmnJx4nlERFYTiKNny7wfwA8ghZHtpXpcquHMK9RWs2sj6ReogQ1oz8UTkcZ8gW3-1xJpdaoYLcKtMuv1-il8EPHaiiyJ8VsiAbHxRB0hj-EVodB0luGZ7ODu0/s640/110%255B3%255D.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Another popular design was the “hunting” knife. I believe early versions were
popularized by Marble’s. An example can be seen on p.146 of the 1907 Abercrombie
& Fitch Catalog.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsFxg7zk0UagAk_heCQHj4J6RbcMVNLSUmS2PZ9pOu6uIbYY3gCwqZfUJ_Yl106hW5kPg8dRSEBEv3CArOr9bioZs8u9mjdOJXJRUItNHclft6_mrSKTXHcbn-Jdm0TiF0KH-4Nvd0aI/s1600/Knife+1+AF+p146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsFxg7zk0UagAk_heCQHj4J6RbcMVNLSUmS2PZ9pOu6uIbYY3gCwqZfUJ_Yl106hW5kPg8dRSEBEv3CArOr9bioZs8u9mjdOJXJRUItNHclft6_mrSKTXHcbn-Jdm0TiF0KH-4Nvd0aI/s640/Knife+1+AF+p146.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
If we look outside of the Americas there is an additional style of knife
available at the time, the puukko, and similar variations. The Lapin Puukko
Vuolupuukko #31 you see below is a good, affordable example. Similar designs
have been around since long before the period at which we are looking of 1880
through 1930. While they were not widely available in the United States,
examples that were brought over by immigrants must have certainly been around at
the time.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4mk8OasDIeSLRnn69Rj4KgXzrRG_dz7cBaGdgmmUiQ0ap65MEsY9rlNePhyFPnVWNsPfS63irbKQxjsWq06GwxPwRNRcQKKMDklGcsJeazyxCc8QMNRj7lfxd-XG7Eg5lh9GN-H2k814/s1600/1223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4mk8OasDIeSLRnn69Rj4KgXzrRG_dz7cBaGdgmmUiQ0ap65MEsY9rlNePhyFPnVWNsPfS63irbKQxjsWq06GwxPwRNRcQKKMDklGcsJeazyxCc8QMNRj7lfxd-XG7Eg5lh9GN-H2k814/s640/1223.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A slightly different design emerged from Sweden. In 1891 Frost-Erik Ersson
started Frosts Knivfabrik, which was later purchased by KJ Eriksson AB in 1912,
and later became what we now know as Mora of Sweden. Below you can see an early
advertisement for what would be Mora knives in the 1920s.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1jmD0ndzYY72BXSqdyaYIQSB0NJ-_A3DpxazsbdAgaVB1naCNlfP22CO1Xx5yfWiGTEfOMVQQy2fSfA34xtiN4IkoxFQxAOZa7oFXUnRw_Vl7R18lM_RIfOWTnnPJKvGceTlVlSux4yo/s1600/6_No_23and33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="765" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1jmD0ndzYY72BXSqdyaYIQSB0NJ-_A3DpxazsbdAgaVB1naCNlfP22CO1Xx5yfWiGTEfOMVQQy2fSfA34xtiN4IkoxFQxAOZa7oFXUnRw_Vl7R18lM_RIfOWTnnPJKvGceTlVlSux4yo/s640/6_No_23and33.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Below is a modern Mora #1 knife. The design has seen some minor changes like an
epoxied handle rather than a pinned one, but the design is largely the same.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNVi7Iu8EYTPo0cIJvG-aKaNBBmygLYfw3F2Yg-Lb0yjQAuNg7OQ7kmOz0H7LEagfMYx_qXU4W8AefPBubXKEqtQhin05zo6mxzEil7Vs_ZHaaKwZJFVekYscFih7Mf33MG6_MJMgSVQ/s1600/3+%252813%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNVi7Iu8EYTPo0cIJvG-aKaNBBmygLYfw3F2Yg-Lb0yjQAuNg7OQ7kmOz0H7LEagfMYx_qXU4W8AefPBubXKEqtQhin05zo6mxzEil7Vs_ZHaaKwZJFVekYscFih7Mf33MG6_MJMgSVQ/s640/3+%252813%2529.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Pocket knives were typically double blade, non-locking knives. Below is an image
provided by Nessmuk. Similar designs can easily be found today.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
"<i>Many hunters do not carry sheath knives, saying (and it is
quite true) that a common jackknife will skin anything from a squirrel to a
bear. Still, I like a small, light sheath knife. It is always open and "
get-at-able," ready not only for skinning game and cleaning fish, but for
cutting sticks, slicing bread and bacon and peeling " spuds." It
saves the pocket knife from wet and messy work, and preserves its edge for the
fine jobs."</i> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918 (2nd edition,
1920) p.167<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj43-HuE-FKExyN1FC8cKH8QF4hAcP6zY1aVWk0m4ov5Ld95sFuDUE4Y15C3yCYHWNz-1P6Vzv92rAxGMoM9G8hrMrgqMPDs-gkvaVCI7c7-bzOZy0f_UGdbv2BdCCGcElANl1qBVsqDHM/s1600/Untitled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj43-HuE-FKExyN1FC8cKH8QF4hAcP6zY1aVWk0m4ov5Ld95sFuDUE4Y15C3yCYHWNz-1P6Vzv92rAxGMoM9G8hrMrgqMPDs-gkvaVCI7c7-bzOZy0f_UGdbv2BdCCGcElANl1qBVsqDHM/s640/Untitled.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In summary, any of the above designs would be appropriate to use during the
Classic Backpacking period. The American model was to use a butchering style
fixed blade knife, combined with a folding pocket knife. In Europe the puukko
style knife was in use at the time. This by no means covers all types of knives
that were available and used at the time, it’s only a sample of what can be
used. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong><u>Saws</u></strong></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong><u><br /></u></strong></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In all of the reading that I have done while doing research on this subject,
which admittedly is not much, I have not found any references to using small
saws for camp work. There are discussions of large cross cutting saws, both when
it comes to their selections and to transporting them via pack train, but the
use of small saws doesn’t seem to have been popular. For a while I thought that
they just weren’t available at the time, but then I found a pretty good example
on p.70 of the 1907 Abercrombie & Fitch Catalog.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC8wEd_kmzim0BhjGy09TeHKGAPwp8LDIzBN5NAOoH5gs3k0q3ZKzA6C0Hhs1Kc0sq-87pnbT-boX8Gnsod5cvPk95_7WPA8gh0khfTN9vR23xb5PLo_-ce7vX_RFN2mdWOpHGDHM02Zw/s1600/Saw+AF+p70.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC8wEd_kmzim0BhjGy09TeHKGAPwp8LDIzBN5NAOoH5gs3k0q3ZKzA6C0Hhs1Kc0sq-87pnbT-boX8Gnsod5cvPk95_7WPA8gh0khfTN9vR23xb5PLo_-ce7vX_RFN2mdWOpHGDHM02Zw/s640/Saw+AF+p70.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It had a folding 8 inch blade, and in many ways resembles modern folding saws.
Of course, it is hard to tell from the picture how usable the saw actually was.
It might have been unreliable and easily damaged.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Either way, small portable saws don’t seem to have been in use by any of the
authors I referenced earlier. They all preferred to rely on their hatchets and
knives for wood processing. Maybe that’s because the saws available at the time
were not of particularly good design or quality, or it could be that they
were so used to using axes that a small saw seemed like a useless item to carry. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong><u>My Choices</u></strong></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After going through the above options, I decided to go with a hatchet and a
Scandinavian style fixed blade knife.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIiNggaNFHRcFqdMoEgg47LSqWcFaPotu8ctvMYVZNqTZ5IDaDcsJJEDNXlDPsHF-43qjXD_tzl22nJu6NLoA1msheuJT0NxUlTmbYfvGkcmlMn4EKT4zzS3Df6_BewpeYSA5o7RjLiN8/s1600/IMG_5370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIiNggaNFHRcFqdMoEgg47LSqWcFaPotu8ctvMYVZNqTZ5IDaDcsJJEDNXlDPsHF-43qjXD_tzl22nJu6NLoA1msheuJT0NxUlTmbYfvGkcmlMn4EKT4zzS3Df6_BewpeYSA5o7RjLiN8/s640/IMG_5370.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The hatchet is an older model Husqvarna. Since Husqvarna outsources their axe
production to a number of different companies, I can not tell who the actual
maker was, but in design it very closely resembles the Wetterlings Wilderness
Hatchet. It has a head on approximately 1.25lb and a 12 inch handle.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The knife is a Mora #2. I’ve used it for years when backpacking, for everything
from processing game to woodworking. In my opinion it is a much better design
than the style knives used by the likes of Nessmuk and Kephart. It also
eliminates the need for me to carry a separate folding, woodworking knife.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I do have a larger axe that I like to use. It’s an old Collins Homestead axe
that I restored and re-hung. It has a 2.25lb head and a 26 inch handle. Just
like with my hatchet, I made a leather cover for it. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqDDE26iM1OjFFSlZ7Q6a5EhdftwuqKwgDBljubx9mouP289RNELePQfqa6mF4AFS4ojymQS8-3t7hhtxwGZUrl6aqExo6SS_J2HE7kC1ZlaSdGmEk9XBGwhQY86R1BOYi-wiQ68QGmas/s1600/IMG_4734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqDDE26iM1OjFFSlZ7Q6a5EhdftwuqKwgDBljubx9mouP289RNELePQfqa6mF4AFS4ojymQS8-3t7hhtxwGZUrl6aqExo6SS_J2HE7kC1ZlaSdGmEk9XBGwhQY86R1BOYi-wiQ68QGmas/s640/IMG_4734.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It’s an excellent axe, but unfortunately I’ve had no reason to use it. It would
be great for processing large amounts of wood, but I have been trying to
restrict myself to what I would consider responsible practices. On most trips
that limits me to fallen dead wood, which is often no more than three inches
thick. For that I don’t need an axe this size. A hatchet does the job just fine,
and it’s easier to carry. It doesn’t mean I would never use it on a trip, it’s
just that so far I haven’t had the opportunity.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, this is just some background on the issue of cutting tool in the context
of Classic Backpacking, as well as my choices. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-206019198292794352016-01-26T12:27:00.000-05:002016-01-26T16:07:44.096-05:00Trip Report: Classic Backpacking 1/24/16 - 1/25/16<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>This advice is not intended for the tenderfoot, for he
should never attempt to "rough it," and that is just what it means to
"travel light," for when making long journeys over land, carrying the
camping outfit and food on one's back, one must leave behind all of those
little articles which are so necessary for the comfort of the tender one. The
instructions given here are for the hardy outdoor man, inexperienced in bush
life, but with a desire to learn of the methods employed. I give my own methods
of traveling and camping out, and if others think they have better ways, they
should remember that we woodsmen are all cranks and that their modes might seem
as absurd to me as mine do to them.</i> Elmer Harry
Kreps, 1910<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
I know that this is probably more trip reports than you guys want to see, but
since I am doing this <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a> thing as an experiment, I think it’s
important to share what I am doing as much as possible.<br />
<br />
My goal for this past weekend was to do another three day trip. I took Monday
off, and planned to start out on Saturday. We were supposed to get a snow storm
on Saturday, and my plan was to go into the woods right before the storm hit, so
I could try camping in the type of weather which I imagine is the most difficult
to do when Classic Backpacking, where it would be difficult to maintain a fire at
the same time as sheltering yourself from the elements. Unfortunately, the storm
hit earlier than expected, and I couldn’t get the car through the snow. Ye olde
Camry just wouldn’t budge. So, I waited for the snow plows, and started out on
Sunday morning. Most of the roads into the mountains were closed, so I had to
keep driving north until I found one that wasn’t. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiceg6qG4TQf6z80FWVv0KjZVQOp0SkwY7141eRZ9gE0QQfHwfFZ2RC5-d_si6bnPyVanmbKEk-qdOHClXnuh7c7f3PZR2mgUwrsBUEa7iRUr9pqr96jPAItnE8NZGiJZxInzwI0cWtFNs/s1600/IMG_5269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiceg6qG4TQf6z80FWVv0KjZVQOp0SkwY7141eRZ9gE0QQfHwfFZ2RC5-d_si6bnPyVanmbKEk-qdOHClXnuh7c7f3PZR2mgUwrsBUEa7iRUr9pqr96jPAItnE8NZGiJZxInzwI0cWtFNs/s640/IMG_5269.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
I started out around 9 am, low in elevation, with my plan being to move up the
mountain until I found an area with more resources, i.e. pine.<br />
<br />
The snow was knee deep. I didn’t bring snowshoes because I don’t have any period
appropriate ones, but travel wasn’t bad on account of there being no ice layer
that I would have to punch through.<br />
<br />
The weather was supposed to be warm, going up to about 32F (0C) during the day.
However, I figured something wasn’t right with the weather predictions, as when
I left the house it was 9F (-13C), and it was certainly colder in the
mountains. As a result, I brought and extra sweater, and wore my wool pants and
a cotton anorak over my top layers, mostly to keep the wind from cutting through
the wool layers.<br />
<br />
Since I was bushwhacking, some of the terrain was pretty tough to get through.
There were many stream beds that had been covered with snow, making it hard to
figure out where to place your steps. It was a time consuming process.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUgYlz8FPcfaQ23QxkCCGogGtAtrF3mT3LfnIQSOBJeBXh5zjXSm7cqtoSZTED1uctCTbpR4Oca2UAWjYvlNd9TXUzdS8S1A4PICxDMN-HUFjL5OlBWw4xvW-RnzgRh0LKpOLJqu6Sy8/s1600/IMG_5274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUgYlz8FPcfaQ23QxkCCGogGtAtrF3mT3LfnIQSOBJeBXh5zjXSm7cqtoSZTED1uctCTbpR4Oca2UAWjYvlNd9TXUzdS8S1A4PICxDMN-HUFjL5OlBWw4xvW-RnzgRh0LKpOLJqu6Sy8/s640/IMG_5274.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Eventually I reached a small patch of pine. The time was shortly after 1 pm. I
selected a sheltered spot, and started setting up my camp.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXqfRiGvQTU94h5UchgaseHdLyp50JNdINPljOuZq04MQkbtV56t9dLu22gLwWgoH7oVG8NV0DZG4LVafbFZBfYYcEPquCjMR8MwzFS03KzlKTd-n9zyAfq9SO7DdyTUijzOFymjtVllo/s1600/IMG_5303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXqfRiGvQTU94h5UchgaseHdLyp50JNdINPljOuZq04MQkbtV56t9dLu22gLwWgoH7oVG8NV0DZG4LVafbFZBfYYcEPquCjMR8MwzFS03KzlKTd-n9zyAfq9SO7DdyTUijzOFymjtVllo/s640/IMG_5303.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I used the same stick-bed method from last trip. Initially I tried doing it just
with pine boughs, but it was going to take way too much to complete because the
boughs were compressing a lot.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The next step was to gather some firewood. I knew the night was going to be
colder than on my last trip, so I gathered some extra wood. Before I left for
the trip, I contemplated bringing my boy’s axe to make the gathering of firewood
easier, but at the last minute I decided against it. I wouldn’t be able to
utilize it fully because as on the last trip, I wasn’t willing to start felling
large trees. For the wrist-thick firewood which I was likely to collect, my
hatchet was more than enough. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfcJ2hYEG-KkesTUVZ7dNbhmERyCa5J3jXedJGBOSKoicVgkv_1tEqCZE0ixsxH6GZrkNVdaMLeUBD-vF0_Mz0lKeMbTISODvYugYRtDaaLL_wsVxkAVDP2ME0XOEEWjg4neAazzJz3o/s1600/IMG_5370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfcJ2hYEG-KkesTUVZ7dNbhmERyCa5J3jXedJGBOSKoicVgkv_1tEqCZE0ixsxH6GZrkNVdaMLeUBD-vF0_Mz0lKeMbTISODvYugYRtDaaLL_wsVxkAVDP2ME0XOEEWjg4neAazzJz3o/s640/IMG_5370.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The wood gathering was slow going. I was looking for dead wood to process, and
slogging through the snow in search of dry pieces protruding from the snow was
time consuming. The hatchet made quick work of it though.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBbSqiOB6uKpBohSpHoeMEjsq3fMlSrgh0PTG8bgyW0IZRR4Yvuj_FupMxlyRtAY_UzP_jGe6lavsIq6VjZTeRokewnyWO7gG4hfy8GZJdxAY1TS-Yt42XMFo1vL9x7V0RiytR2LRh3Mc/s1600/IMG_5334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBbSqiOB6uKpBohSpHoeMEjsq3fMlSrgh0PTG8bgyW0IZRR4Yvuj_FupMxlyRtAY_UzP_jGe6lavsIq6VjZTeRokewnyWO7gG4hfy8GZJdxAY1TS-Yt42XMFo1vL9x7V0RiytR2LRh3Mc/s640/IMG_5334.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I kept gathering firewood for some time, adding to the pile, and stopping from
time to time to hydrate and have a few crackers. It took me approximately two
hours to set up camp and to gather the firewood. It was faster than I expected,
and I was mostly ready for the night around 3:30 pm.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I took care of some minor tasks, and near 4 pm I was ready for the night. With
sunset at 5 pm, I had some extra time. I usually like to time it so that I am
done setting up right as it gets dark, but I got done early this time. That
meant I had to keep warm for another hour or so before going to sleep. I put on
all the clothing I had, put on my dry gloves, and got the fire going, drying out
my wet gloves and cooking dinner. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBp-uSYbYedA6IER8964r0zcG3uPS8d6tMM6y4rn9sSzuz58O6tbsxi6O08xblEIUJsntZeBmoFkvZMDmhq2A3G7yDJMqQGiqUEumqhSQgu2nTJhJT_mk9QizqsTfDJwiToJc-Yz8KYis/s1600/IMG_5381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBp-uSYbYedA6IER8964r0zcG3uPS8d6tMM6y4rn9sSzuz58O6tbsxi6O08xblEIUJsntZeBmoFkvZMDmhq2A3G7yDJMqQGiqUEumqhSQgu2nTJhJT_mk9QizqsTfDJwiToJc-Yz8KYis/s640/IMG_5381.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As usual, at sunset I wrapped myself up and went to sleep. At first things went
well. I slept for a few hours, but abound 8 pm I woke up with the fire out and
me shivering. The rest of the night was very unpleasant. The temperature dropped
down to about 5F (-15C). Sleeping for any period of time became almost
impossible. Unlike on my last trip, where I could get the fire stoked up, get my
body temperature up, and then sleep for a few hours before I got chilled, this
time, I would get cold the moment the fire died down. I was up every half hour
to feed the fire. With sunrise at 7 am, it was a very long 14 hours of night. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The problem wouldn’t have been as bad if I was using large logs that I could
toss on the fire. Larger logs can burn for two hours or so before needing
tending. With the wrist-thick wood I had though, half an hour of burn time was
about the most I could expect. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Overall, a very miserable night. When I started out with this Classic Backpacking thing, my goal was to explore the origins of backpacking. Well, this is not
backpacking. This is a “survival” trip. Sure, I can do it, but there is nothing
enjoyable about it. Even if I was willing to start bringing down large trees for
firewood, it still wouldn’t be a fun experience. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I’ll have to come up with some other options for cold weather backpacking. Steve
Watts contacted me last week, and recommended a cotton lined down comforter.
They were certainly available at the time, and are mentioned by some of the
authors. It doesn’t seem like they were a primary choice for many at the time,
but they would be period correct, and might solve the issue. A woven fur blanket
might also work, but the cost is too much. Anyway, I’ll keep thinking about it. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
One of the worst problems is getting up to pee. It’s a whole procedure, where
you get very cold, have to stoke up the fire, warm yourself back up, then wrap
yourself again. You can’t tell because of the facemask, but I’m frowning. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJyxrqzA1QYLevl4ZsTPzZt5CdNvrUTiZsF21PCOf4l3CItKIFRYCS5CqThP5vQUJBVz4djcZWuXhxUvicvrdQVOHOvh8_fbZp_WBa_9Yow2aNBhCBPqzrJAQNzoFELXQP3RCVF-o92Ks/s1600/IMG_5461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJyxrqzA1QYLevl4ZsTPzZt5CdNvrUTiZsF21PCOf4l3CItKIFRYCS5CqThP5vQUJBVz4djcZWuXhxUvicvrdQVOHOvh8_fbZp_WBa_9Yow2aNBhCBPqzrJAQNzoFELXQP3RCVF-o92Ks/s640/IMG_5461.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, I made it through the night, packed up, cleared up the camp site and headed
back. It took me about an hour of walking to get completely warmed up.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO5UVBQypKAH9oARHfZbmLSgDMgfFhJn9E3hBnppjVsOSGwlN-9Xl4n1X7Nj5YqH_LG_oBlmp5FCiN38KJ1cyCef0qvH9baqzFFk3IgKEbjuY741ZHWwvjZWTF_gTP0LvOEr9lNxemCgg/s1600/IMG_5468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO5UVBQypKAH9oARHfZbmLSgDMgfFhJn9E3hBnppjVsOSGwlN-9Xl4n1X7Nj5YqH_LG_oBlmp5FCiN38KJ1cyCef0qvH9baqzFFk3IgKEbjuY741ZHWwvjZWTF_gTP0LvOEr9lNxemCgg/s640/IMG_5468.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As with last trip, some of the gear was not exactly period correct. I’m still
using a water bottle with a plastic cap, my anorak is a cotton nylon blend (85%
cotton-I believe) and has a zipper, my boots are still my regular boots, etc.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Anyway, there are still things to work out, especially when it comes to the
sleep system. I’ll figure something out eventually. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-91462608436586682972016-01-18T15:59:00.000-05:002016-01-21T16:25:37.915-05:00Classic Backpacking Gear - BlanketsAlong with the “canvas tarp”, the blanket is one of the most integral parts of
the myth of the woodsman. While it is correct that for warm weather most
woodsmen in the time period between 1880 and 1930 utilized wool blankets, the
notion that they did so because such blankets are “the ideal” form of sleep
system couldn’t be further from the truth. It is in this respect more than any
other that most severely limits the modern woodsman when trying to do <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a>. All other modern materials and tools can be substituted with rough
equivalents from the late 19th century, but when it comes to insulation, the
choices are not as easy.<br />
<br />
All of the authors I have read, covering the time period between 1880 and 1930,
understood that wool blankets, while good, were severely limited due to their
poor insulation to weight/bulk ratio. As long as a single blanket would suffice,
they were content to carry it, but for colder temperatures, they all looked for
better alternatives.<br />
<br />
For warm weather, either listed as down to freezing, 32F(0C) or a bit above
that, depending on the author, all of them seem to have preferred a single wool
blanket, weighing about 5lb. <br />
<br />
“<em>Next in the order of necessities is a woollen blanket,— a good stout one,
rather than the light or flimsy one that you may think of taking… A lining of
cotton drilling will perhaps make a thin blanket serviceable.”</em> John Mead
Gould, How to Camp Out<br />
<br />
George Washington Sears (Nessmuk) preferred a blanket bag, i.e. a single blanket
folded over and sewn along the edges, not to be confused with a sleeping bag of
the time, which wasn’t all that different, but involved several layers of wool
covered by canvas. “<em>A soft, warm blanket-bag, open at the ends, and just
long enough to cover the sleeper, with an oblong square of waterproofed cotton
cloth 6x8 feet, will give warmth and shelter by night and will weigh together
five or six pounds. This, with the extra clothing, will make about eight pounds
of dry goods to pack over carries, which is enough. Probably, also, it will be
found little enough for comfort.”</em> George Washington Sears, Woodcraft, 1892
p.6<br />
<br />
A similarly used blanket bag is illustrated in Scrambles Amongst the Alps by
Edward Whymper, 1872.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDyrjJtDzeu7bdhM7FXYEtaukuCP4_saTQlqrXyIEgRr1W9trbUk_LBINpTPfoWnwLeWjSBwNI7zKaVhVTPLNUBpxXKojbZKARwEcDh_jslVboEKS_QpWjDycOGNvDvu0SHwRS5o3eIU/s1600/Scrambles+Alps+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDyrjJtDzeu7bdhM7FXYEtaukuCP4_saTQlqrXyIEgRr1W9trbUk_LBINpTPfoWnwLeWjSBwNI7zKaVhVTPLNUBpxXKojbZKARwEcDh_jslVboEKS_QpWjDycOGNvDvu0SHwRS5o3eIU/s640/Scrambles+Alps+2.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>A six or seven pound blanket of the best quality is heavy enough. The gray
army blanket, to be purchased sometimes at the military stores, is good, as is
also the "three- point" blanket issued by the Hudson's Bay Company…You will find
that another suit of underwear is as warm as an extra blanket, and much easier
to carry. Sleeping bags I do not care for. They cannot be drawn closely to the
body, and the resulting air space is difficult to warm up. A blanket you can hug
close to you, thus retaining all the animal heat. Beside which a sleeping bag is
heavier and more of a bother to keep well aired. If you like the thing
occasionally, a few horse blanket pins will make one of your blanket.”</em>
Stewart Edward White, Camp and Trail , 1911, p.87</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>They (blankets) should be of generous size, for a white man cannot sleep
comfortably if he must draw his knees up against his chin. What is more, the
blankets should cover his head as well as his feet, so they should be a foot and
a half longer than the user's height. They should also be wide — six feet will
do, but nothing less. With such blankets a man can lie on one-half and pull the
other half over him, and by suddenly elevating his pedal extremities he can drop
the lower edge of the blankets under them, while the upper part can be drawn
tightly around his head and shoulders...</em><em>The Hudson's Bay blankets are excellent, being heavy and of large size. Then
there are many camp blankets of less note, most of which are good. Really good,
heavy, all-wool blankets of a size 72x84 inches will cost from $ 5.00 to $ 10.00
each for single blankets, and twice that much for the double kind, if you can
get them. These single blankets should weigh from four and a half to five pounds
each.”</em> Elmer Harry Kreps. Woodcraft 1919, p.49</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>In all likelihood you will depend for warmth upon blankets. Their use is so
universal that we need no discussion other than in regard to their quality and
shape… The thicker and looser the texture of woolen goods the greater will be
the warmth.”</em> Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916, p.102</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Not all blankets however are made equal, not even the woolen ones. The above
authors make it very clear that the blanket should not only be large enough to
wrap around yourself, but the wool should be loosely woven in order to maximize
the warmth provided for the weight. Using the same amount of wool, if it is
loosely woven, will trap more air and provide better insulation. The downsize is
less durability and it renders the blanket more permeable to wind.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>The warmest blanket for its weight is not a close-woven one but one that is
loose-woven and fluffy. An army blanket is made for hard service, and so must be
of firm weave, but a third of its weight is added for that purpose only, not for
warmth.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918, p.127</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Also see to it that the weight is in the thickness and not in the size. In
this country the regulation Army blanket is to be depended upon. However, if
they can be secured, a person will certainly make no mistake in getting a
genuine Hudson Bay or Mackinaw. The proper weight is about five pounds per
blanket and size seventy-two by seventy-eight is about right. If you get it too
narrow you cannot then roll it up so snugly for packing nor wrap it so closely
about the body at night.”</em> Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916, p.104</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>It has always been my belief that wool loosely woven, so that it forms a
soft, thick cloth, is a better heat retainer than the same quantity of wool
tightly woven, so that it makes a thinner, tighter and harder material. Anyway,
I think the surface should be as woolly as it is possible to make it.”</em>
Elmer Harry Kreps. Woodcraft 1919, p.45</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
You may get a good idea of what a loosely woven blanket would approximate in
volume from the description given by Warren Miller: “<em>Take the army blanket,
single thickness, 84 inches by 66 inches, weight 5 pounds. You may roll it into
a sort of sausage, 7 feet long and 9 inches in diameter.”</em> Warren Hastings
Miller, Camp Craft, 1915, p.42</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A blanket weighing 5lb for bedding that will take you down to 32F (0C) with
proper bedding, is not great my modern standards, where equivalent insulation
would weigh as little as 1lb, but is still portable, and will function well for
a person traveling on foot.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The problem comes when the temperatures dip below that. All of the authors I
have read seemed to agree that a blankets were insufficient, and would
problematic if one attempted to carry enough of them on one’s back. The problem
was nothing new. 18th and early 19th century explorers struggled with the same
problem. Their solution most often was to use fur robes, and travel by pack
train or canoe. As in Nansen’s case below, he used sleds to move his fur
sleeping bags across the ice and snow. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>The sleeping-bag is, of course, a most important article of equipment for
all Arctic expeditions. In our case, the nature of the material of which the bag
should be made needed our best consideration, as it was necessary that it should
be at the same time light and sufficiently warm. On previous expeditions
sometimes wool and sometimes skins have been used. Wool, of course, lets the
perspiration through much more readily, and there is not so much condensation of
moisture inside as in the case of skin ; but, on the other hand, wool has the
disadvantage of being very heavy in comparison with the amount of warmth which
it affords. For a time I thought of trying woollen bags, but I came to the
conclusion that they would not be warm enough, and I now think that if we had
taken them we should have scarcely reached the west coast of Greenland alive.
After several experiments I determined to use reindeer-skin, as the best
material which I could procure in the circumstances. Reindeer-skin is, in
comparison with its weight, the warmest of all similar materials known to me,
and the skin of the calf, in its winter-coat especially, combines the qualities
of warmth and lightness in quite an unusual degree.”</em> Fridtjof Nansen, The
First Crossing of Greenland, 1890 p.29-30</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A similar sleep system was used by Scott and Amundsen during their race to the
South Pole. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In weather a bit below 32F (0C), the answer might have been as simple as bringing an
extra blanket. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Usually they beginner weights himself with a considerable number of
blankets. It is found that during a good part of the night that one blanket is
not sufficient, even in Summer. He therefore takes two.”</em> Thomas Hiram
Holding, The Camper’s Handbook, 1908, p.162</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>At the time of writing, although it is well on in the Winter, we have been
sleeping under two blankets, with the front of the tent wide open, and my eldest
son, who occupies a tent hard by, sleeps under a single blanket.” </em>Thomas
Hiram Holding, The Camper’s Handbook, 1908, p.385</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>But this is only one side of the story: arrange the blanket as you will,
there is but one thickness around you, and this is not enough — not nearly
enough — for comfortable sleeping with the night temperature even as high as 40
degrees. Below that you positively must have two thicknesses of blanket. So we
get the red Hudson Bay blanket (with the four black bars!), 72 inches by 84
inches, weight 10 pounds, which can be doubled around one in a pinch; also the
double mackinaw, 72 inches by twice 90 inches, weight 10 pounds, and the various
gray doubles, usually twice 82 inches long by 72 inches wide. These all require
a whole tump-bag to pack in, with precious little space to spare, and every
thing else you take must go in the other bag. Now, in the summer, early fall,
and late spring one can go as Nessmuk did, with a light knapsack and a single
blanket, total weight, including canoe, not over 30 pounds; but I notice he
usually denned up about the time the first snows fell. If he had stayed out
later he would either have had to change his rig or increase his weight, and as
soon as he got blankets enough his bulk would run out of hand for
lone-wilderness tramping. As I try to get out at least once a month every month
in the year, some sort of a winter pack that would be warm yet total under 35
pounds, including provisions, tent, duffel, and ammunition, had to be devised.”
</em>Warren Hastings Miller, Camp Craft, 1915, p.43-44</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Now, a man with one thickness of blanket has no chance at all against zero
temperatures or even freezing (32 degrees). If he doubles the blanket it is not
wide enough to stay on him, as he has no lacing holding it to the browse-bag. If
he takes two blankets there is 10 pounds of weight, and 2 cubic feet of baggage
to load on a man's back… And at that, the blanket toter will not be really warm.
There are yards of useless extra material around his feet, which he would give
much to have transferred up to his hips and shoulders, where the cold is biting
in ! And his load ! Well, it might answer on a canoe trip, where a portage of a
few miles is the longest back-pack trip, or on a toboggan jaunt, where the snow
carries the load — but not for a free and independent tramp over mountains and
down brooks, such as the trout angler takes in spring or the hunter in the
fall.”</em> Warren Hastings Miller, Camp Craft, 1915, p.56-57</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>The number of blankets needed depends somewhat upon the time of year and
the locality of use and whether or not the all night fire is to be used. In
ordinary summer weather one blanket is enough especially if combined with the
proper browse bag and wind break and is enough even for frosty autumn
temperatures up to stream freezing time, excepting in the higher altitudes. With
the temperature under thirty-two degrees two Army blankets will be needed...</em><em>Many mountaineers to whom strenuous pedestrianism and cold nights of the
higher altitudes necessitate the lightest form of bedding prefer wool quilts
which are folded and sewed on one end and half up one side in the form of a
sleeping bag which is protected from the damp ground by a waterproof balloon
silk cover.”</em> Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916, p.105</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The downside of the extra blanket is clearly the added weight and bulk, as
mentioned above. While carrying 5lb worth of blankets is not an issue, 10lb
starts to become problematic. Some of the authors suggest foregoing the second
blanket and instead relaying on extra clothing for the added warmth.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Where the transportation is inadequate as on a hike trip, the wearing of an
extra suit of underwear is as warm as an extra blanket. One then gets the dead
air space between the wool and the warmth is thereby intensified because the
number of layers of covering retains the heat longer than one thick layer of the
same weight.”</em> Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916, p.105</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>You will find that another suit of underwear is as warm as an extra
blanket, and much easier to carry.”</em> Stewart Edward White, Camp and Trail,
1911, p.87</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
These strategies however seem to have been completely abandoned when the weather
really got cold. Each author seems to have struggled with what to do for
insulation in cold weather, and each had his attempted solutions. As seem from
Nansen above, when transportation was not an issue, i.e. one had access to pack
horses, sleds, etc, fur sleeping bags were the answer. Caribou or Reindeer fur
appears to have been preferred, although it was too heavy of an option for
backpacking.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Some resorted to using the sleeping bags available at the time. These were
noting more than several layers of loosely woven wool, covered by some type of
shell layer. They were heavy and bulky, but not nearly as much as the equivalent
amount of blankets.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Bedding is the problem; a man carrying his all upon his back, in cold
weather, must study compactness as well as lightness of outfit. Here the points
are in favor of sleeping-bag vs. blankets, because, for a given insulation
against cold and draughts, it may be so made as to save bulk as well as weight.
For a pedestrian it need not be so roomy as the standard ones, especially at the
foot end. Better design one to suit yourself, and have an outfitter make it up
to order, if you have no skill with the needle. An inner bag of woolen
blanketing, an outer one of knotted wool batting, and a separate cover of
cravenetted khaki or Tanalite — the weight need not be over 8 pounds complete.
Your camp- fire will do the rest. A browse bag is dispensed with, for you will
carry an axe and can cut small logs to hold in place a deep layer of such soft
stuff as the location affords</em>.” Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol
II, 1918, p.144</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>There is a good deal of waste material in blankets and comforters,
especially at the foot end. Suppose we cut them into a sort of coffin shape, to
conform to the outlines of the body, sew up a side and an end and the lower
third of the other side, then attach buttons or laces or clasps to close the bag
after one has got into it. A good deal of weight and bulk are
saved.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918, p.129</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Some like Warren Miller went to great lengths to design their own sleeping bags,
dedicating a whole chapter of Camp Craft, titled “Eliminating the Blanket” to
describing its construction. The final product can be seen below.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNoqBxjnaP2fZxED_xpGB2YM733BDD-OAHhB7NVOv1en2YVojoQfdAAP0zHbI4zjgacTFg2U4xXYXXDThY4TXFDDpMQpRBgrDzqhq76VLvr_ltYwixcvJbjV-fpiCAzMvRjnnI8Uozm4/s1600/Miller+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNoqBxjnaP2fZxED_xpGB2YM733BDD-OAHhB7NVOv1en2YVojoQfdAAP0zHbI4zjgacTFg2U4xXYXXDThY4TXFDDpMQpRBgrDzqhq76VLvr_ltYwixcvJbjV-fpiCAzMvRjnnI8Uozm4/s640/Miller+2.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Thomas Holding similarly designed his own, stating: “<em>The proper sleeping bag
should fit a man like a coat, only a good deal less.”</em> Thomas Hiram Holding,
The Camper’s Handbook, 1908, p.170</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Others resorted to using different types of fur. E.H. Kreps goes into great
length about rabbit fur blankets in both of his books, Camp and Train Methods,
1910, and Woodcraft, 1919.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Now it is not difficult to get together a quantity of blankets that will
keep a man warm on the coldest night, but the trouble will come when he wants to
transport them. I have slept out on nights when it would have required a
half-dozen or more of the heaviest woolen blankets made to keep me
near-comfortable, but a bed of this kind would have made a pack that would
discourage a bush Indian. No, you can't carry with you enough woolen blankets to
keep you comfortably warm when traveling the northern trails in midwinter. Now
think it over and it will become obvious that either a man cannot be comfortable
in the woods during zero weather unless he has a way of transporting his camp
duffle other than by back-packing, or he must find a lighter, warmer blanket
than can be made of wool. The latter is the solution. Woolen blankets are good,
in fact the best thing made, for camping in spring, summer and fall. As long as
the spirits do not go lower than 10 or 20 degrees above zero and a fire may be
kept burning all night a pair of Hudson Bay blankets are hard to beat. But when
the temperature falls lower the shivering spells preceding each "fire-fixing"
become too frequent and the cat-naps too short…</em> <em>But when zero weather is to be contended with woolen blankets must take a
back seat for the Indian's kind, woven from strips of rabbit fur… One such
blanket, weighing eight or ten pounds, is all that a man requires for sleeping
out of doors in a temperature of 40 below zero… It appears bulky, for with fur
on both sides it is quite thick, but it can be tied up into a fairly small
package. I used to roll mine into a package measuring about 10 inches in
diameter by 20 inches in length, and this could be placed in the bottom of a
common packsack.”</em> Elmer Harry Kreps. Woodcraft 1919, p.48-49</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Many of the authors mention llama wool as a great insulator, twice as good as
sheep’s wool, but they all speak about it as something they have heard of, but
never used themselves.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Of course, there was always the option of last resort, continuing to carry only
a singly blanket, and keeping a large fire burning all night. Such an option
would have been extremely difficult to maintain over a longer period of time.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>The northern or western trapper frequently finds it necessary to make long
trips in terribly cold weather, camping out night after night. Since the entire
camp outfit and food supply must be carried on these journeys the outfit taken
must of necessity be meager. Only a single blanket and a small, light canvas
shelter can be taken and to sleep without a fire under such conditions is out of
the question. A good hot fire must be kept going and such a fire will consume
nearly half a cord of wood during the long northern night. This must be cut into
lengths that can be handled and what would become of the camper if his ax were
to break before the night's wood was cut; he far from the home camp, darkness at
hand, and the temperature far below the zero mark. Freezing to death could be
the only possible outcome, unless he could retrace his steps in the dark and
travel all the long night.”</em> Elmer Harry Kreps. Woodcraft 1919, p.54</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, where does that leave us with respect to sleep insulation when attempting to
do Classic Backpacking? All of the authors seem to agree that a loosely woven
blanket, weighing about 5lb is sufficient to keep you warm down to just above
freezing, 32F (0C). </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For colder temperatures, they all seem to have their own preferences, and at
times outright disagree. Some prefer sleeping bags, others hate them; some
prefer furs, others do not. As a last resort one might just try to tough it out
with a blanket and a large fire. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Ultimately, I haven’t been able to reach any conclusion on what would be a good
solution, especially for someone trying to do Classic Backpacking. I would be
interested in trying out a rabbit fur blanket, but one is nowhere to be found.
On the other hand, I am reluctant to try designing a sleeping bag, because with
the knowledge we have today it would be too easy to come up with a fully modern
down sleeping bag, utilizing silk as a shell rather than nylon. In fact, some
people at the time had that same idea: “<em>Then, as another example, Doctor
Loughren, of the Camp Fire Club, showed me an excellent scheme, a sort of quilt
bag, made of fine, green, paraffined muslin, and lined with live-goose feathers.
It is water-proof and light — 4 pounds, if I remember correctly.”</em> Warren
Hastings Miller, Camp Craft, 1915, p.58</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And thanks to Steve Watts for a reminder, The Woods Arctic Sleeping Robe was introduced around 1898, and featured a cotton shell, lined with duck down and wool. It was advertised as being six times warmer than wool. Despite its heavy weight of 16lb, it was utilized on a number of cold weather expeditions. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, clearly, the idea of using down in the form of some type of sleeping bag was floating around during the time period I am considering. It wouldn't be particularly innacurate to use a cotton lined down quilt. However, for me, the above is dangerously close to a modern sleeping bag, and it is tempting for
me to try to construct exactly that using period correct materials. After all,
in the 1924 summit attempt on Everest, Mallory and Irvine used similar down
sleeping bags. However, I can’t help but feel like that would be cheating. For
one, it would make it too easy, and eliminate the challenge I have been seeking.
Besides, such technology was really at the cutting edge of innovation at the
time, in particular towards the tail end of the time period in which I am
interested. It doesn't seem to have been regularly utilized by the average woodsman. As such, I want to
avoid it.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Well, that leaves me in an interesting position. While all of the woodsmen
between 1880 and 1930 were trying to innovate and move beyond their wool
blankets, I will intentionally refrain from doing so because of the unfair
advantage I would have in such an endeavor. I don’t have access to potentially
portable furs like rabbit fur blankets, so i can’t put them to use. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
What I am left with are wool blankets. Since I am determined to carry all of my
gear on my back while traveling on foot, using period correct packs, that
presents quite a problem. The wool blanket that you saw me carry on my last trip
takes up good 70% of my pack. Carrying a second one would be impossible without
getting a pack twice the size. Unfortunately, that leaves me with only one
option: “<em>Only a single blanket and a small, light canvas shelter can be
taken and to sleep without a fire under such conditions is out of the question.
A good hot fire must be kept going and such a fire will consume nearly half a
cord of wood during the long northern night</em>.” For anyone who finds this an
appealing option, I recommend that you try gathering enough wood to keep a good
size fire burning during a long winter night, and then waking up every two hours
to feed the fire. From experience, I don’t look forward to it. None the less, it
is the course I have chosen to take.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My blanket of choice for the task is an old wool blanket I bought about fourteen
years ago. In fact, it is the first sleep insulation I used on my early
backpacking trips. It was promptly replaced by a sleeping bag, but it’s an
excellent blanket, so I’ve been using it around the house. Ordinarily, when
selecting gear I like to use commercially available options, in order to make it
easier for you guys, but here unfortunately I can’t do that. I haven’t been able
to find a reasonably priced blanket that matches this one in terms of warmth for
the weight. I bought it at a regular department store, so you may want to try
your luck as well. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
To illustrate what I mean when I say that the blanket provides more warmth for
the weight than any other reasonably priced blanket I have been able to find,
here is a comparison picture between the popular Italian Army wool blanket (the
Rothco 90% wool replica), and the blanket I am using. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGFLJahDor6ZGUaDwxieEMJA8QiPMkOkOLmNbXLHuyRPSsblhFiMBFyoVyP-meiahSSLuCWLyP2a-PXQwkmLRIr0-sEBqzpCdkTWyQQ56M3m-i7QFv4Cs1CMZ6qhDt5eLWaYTppuDqEo/s1600/IMG_4641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGFLJahDor6ZGUaDwxieEMJA8QiPMkOkOLmNbXLHuyRPSsblhFiMBFyoVyP-meiahSSLuCWLyP2a-PXQwkmLRIr0-sEBqzpCdkTWyQQ56M3m-i7QFv4Cs1CMZ6qhDt5eLWaYTppuDqEo/s640/IMG_4641.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My wool blanket (right) weights 5lb 8.9oz. The Italian Army blanket (left)
weighs 4lb 8.7oz. My blanket weighs only 1lb more, but is about two and a half
times the size. The reason is that it is much more loosely woven. The Italian
Army blankets are about as bad as you can get in terms of insulation you can get
from a wool blanket. They are so tightly woven that they are better suited for
work as a tarp than as a blanket. They do have the advantage of packing much
more easily because of their compact size, but the insulation they provide for
the weight leaves a lot to be desired.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Because of its loose weave, the blanket is very large. As I mentioned above, it
takes up about 70% of my pack.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9agBvU0KmxaWYtRYYm-oT07vifuo5UO4zIUvi2XHFrmEPM2gL4J8pVXUXsyRzcVuKPgNGtniURWzN7ZX25CimYnPxrS3H_aUoZLK-gmNf44NbdcV_XE_vAEx9yyEbLpH_qEoxNJAgsQ/s1600/IMG_5064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9agBvU0KmxaWYtRYYm-oT07vifuo5UO4zIUvi2XHFrmEPM2gL4J8pVXUXsyRzcVuKPgNGtniURWzN7ZX25CimYnPxrS3H_aUoZLK-gmNf44NbdcV_XE_vAEx9yyEbLpH_qEoxNJAgsQ/s640/IMG_5064.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have to stuff it in my pack, then open up a space between the folds, and then
stuff the rest of my gear in there. It provides good rigidity to the pack, but
it significantly limits what I can carry.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The blanket, of course, can should not be used without proper bedding. Typically
you want about five inches of compressed insulation between the blanket and the
ground. That is easier said than done considering that we do not have the luxury
some of our predecessors had of falling as many trees as we want for the bedding
material. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A stick bed might offer a possible solution. The goal is to create loft and dead
air space. The problem is that insulation like spruce boughs, let alone leafs,
compress significantly once weight is put on them. You may need two feet of
boughs so that you get five inches of compressed insulation, even more with
leafs. The solution is to use layers of other, less compressible materials,
leaving the boughs only for the top layer. That way you have to harvest less
resources from living trees. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMf3vDw939ldK2G18XyZpcT_-2L577fvD7lainlDH5PVkcPA9yf03pQtRPzZPkNuQkvYCv-KnCBmGHfaHTwH_cEEi_b0h5s61K9hBenRwihfkvQkFygrpLc-2fMc7EHDhhrxsuMw7yx7Q/s1600/IMG_4922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMf3vDw939ldK2G18XyZpcT_-2L577fvD7lainlDH5PVkcPA9yf03pQtRPzZPkNuQkvYCv-KnCBmGHfaHTwH_cEEi_b0h5s61K9hBenRwihfkvQkFygrpLc-2fMc7EHDhhrxsuMw7yx7Q/s640/IMG_4922.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4EYqMzesch0NUwfq5fOS3K5Bkqrx4w1UXrcbtFk8tlmXJW2HLQn2L9M2q15LFR9cogrrLmOvMz-icNyXnc3VFK_pE2_Off38CsUGghK1uGfiAHCHbkmA9Dq05Qb2DA2Fsr9T5rCgSD0/s1600/IMG_4928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4EYqMzesch0NUwfq5fOS3K5Bkqrx4w1UXrcbtFk8tlmXJW2HLQn2L9M2q15LFR9cogrrLmOvMz-icNyXnc3VFK_pE2_Off38CsUGghK1uGfiAHCHbkmA9Dq05Qb2DA2Fsr9T5rCgSD0/s640/IMG_4928.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT5xoNFO_uWSmKyo3RhSEaAM7wAZ3J7alQA-_KEuUIgTRpQU8lGn2ptqgg-4HAr0BQSeN9WBFeZwQX4zcFhnw7fX897h7JekTZ55Ea8g04tRWqePEMZZ_50SYlTrIZj4-2w5w0N6MuwUE/s1600/IMG_4930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT5xoNFO_uWSmKyo3RhSEaAM7wAZ3J7alQA-_KEuUIgTRpQU8lGn2ptqgg-4HAr0BQSeN9WBFeZwQX4zcFhnw7fX897h7JekTZ55Ea8g04tRWqePEMZZ_50SYlTrIZj4-2w5w0N6MuwUE/s640/IMG_4930.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I start with larger sticks, covered with a layer of finer brush, and covered
with a top layer of spruce of leafs. The lower layers compress much less, so you
get more compressed loft than you would otherwise from a similar thickness of
boughs alone. It is not as comfortable, but it can be made to work.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lastly, there is the issue of how to wrap the blanket about you. The method
which I was taught, doesn’t seem to have been used by any of the authors I’ve
read. So, let me give you a few quotes describing how they did it.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>I have never seen described the woods men's method of using a blanket,
however. Lie flat on your back. Spread the blanket over you. Now raise your legs
rigid from the hip, the blanket of course draping over them. In two swift
motions tuck first one edge under your legs from right to left, then the second
edge under from left to right, and over the first edge. Lower your legs, wrap up
your shoulders, and go to sleep. If you roll over, one edge will unwind but the
other will tighten.”</em> Stewart Edward White, Camp and Trail, 1911, p.88 </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Lying flat on your back on the browse bag cover yourself with the blanket,
kick up your feet rigid from the hips so as to bring the blanket foot end
draping over and under the feet, returning the feet to the tick roll the body to
the left side and tuck the blanket edge under your right side, reverse the turn
and do the same under your left side. Lower the feet, wrap up the shoulders and
go to sleep. The blanket is now drawn about you snugly above and below and there
is no exposed side to let in the cold air and in rolling over the blanket will
tighten about you.” </em>Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916, p.113</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I tend to do the opposite. I start out on top of the blanket, and then fold it
over on top of me. First, I position the blanket at a diagonal. Since the
blanket is not square, one of the side corners will be higher than the other. I
make sure that corner is away from the direction in which I will be turned, in
my case, the fire.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrq05b0wroQp3is48ZNV0WZjXu6Ib6DhTZ2CBAMYS8izGRT24CxDWt9-RwX2G5bLcxNvNJ4sm5uAPRJCOLuVHLNjIIsmrsuJ9liVLV1B1oRdh5cgo4ilbiNQtjaH_FW9MrBydIhMopjcE/s1600/IMG_5023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrq05b0wroQp3is48ZNV0WZjXu6Ib6DhTZ2CBAMYS8izGRT24CxDWt9-RwX2G5bLcxNvNJ4sm5uAPRJCOLuVHLNjIIsmrsuJ9liVLV1B1oRdh5cgo4ilbiNQtjaH_FW9MrBydIhMopjcE/s640/IMG_5023.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When I am on top of the blanket, I want the top corner to be just at the top of
my head. I then fold the lower corner over my feet.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_Ar7QYBpBPAangowtyF4Wg-lflQehLkl6jsutcX_pKz1PV11YvsIQPw5F4r4TmyNFPvCQ8bNxfQGQJX3RGAC_0Pj8vEkCiAnQ1bxGW-bMSG-Ja7w_d5YpgJHNQAkYBkF4ia-OpEmJ-I/s1600/IMG_5025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_Ar7QYBpBPAangowtyF4Wg-lflQehLkl6jsutcX_pKz1PV11YvsIQPw5F4r4TmyNFPvCQ8bNxfQGQJX3RGAC_0Pj8vEkCiAnQ1bxGW-bMSG-Ja7w_d5YpgJHNQAkYBkF4ia-OpEmJ-I/s640/IMG_5025.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then I take the corner pointing in the direction which I will be facing during
the night ,i.e. the fire, and wrap it around me. This should be the corner that
is slightly lower, so it should cover my hips and torso. I wrap is all the way
around. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGHWV_3GLDhsYIYPyURDRJIbntvcob21o48w-r1V81zV2gltyiDnvhDmuZ_jqvPlUSZBiCs2cz60YpHDBZzYnSnFRhfEGtbObSqSN_1VKQEdwxOtXvF_7i9xGsZD3t0jPmKkrddJp6oU/s1600/IMG_5028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGHWV_3GLDhsYIYPyURDRJIbntvcob21o48w-r1V81zV2gltyiDnvhDmuZ_jqvPlUSZBiCs2cz60YpHDBZzYnSnFRhfEGtbObSqSN_1VKQEdwxOtXvF_7i9xGsZD3t0jPmKkrddJp6oU/s640/IMG_5028.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I then wrap the other corner around me, which should cover the shoulders. I find
to easier to have this higher corner coming over my back, than across my chest.
It is less likely to unravel.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ7UuVAc88d_IpTa9j50NXIyKz2Sx6JXHwoak_u4QKLRpXcz315r1FtpxhQFE-bpGaumnZOLNLmNly0yJzV1S2g_btK2Z-JTeh0ihxHcGyTOpy7Q-98Vcm0olG-9XsJbqINfiKJUuQLw8/s1600/IMG_5031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ7UuVAc88d_IpTa9j50NXIyKz2Sx6JXHwoak_u4QKLRpXcz315r1FtpxhQFE-bpGaumnZOLNLmNly0yJzV1S2g_btK2Z-JTeh0ihxHcGyTOpy7Q-98Vcm0olG-9XsJbqINfiKJUuQLw8/s640/IMG_5031.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lastly, I take the upper corner that is under my head, and pull it under my
shoulder and around my neck.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwigSw9tsC1PCG9Vv1a4yXYhyFh9mJxw0QMzx3eXUhVgB6GiVAy-CLV4QStpCTc4JBpa5fNRdWFtRHzWm-Rgu-7ajeEHOY3pD84wtPBPPN9JJVNC_fcbfxgE0gHFX6OnDp6VWANTABJN4/s1600/IMG_5037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwigSw9tsC1PCG9Vv1a4yXYhyFh9mJxw0QMzx3eXUhVgB6GiVAy-CLV4QStpCTc4JBpa5fNRdWFtRHzWm-Rgu-7ajeEHOY3pD84wtPBPPN9JJVNC_fcbfxgE0gHFX6OnDp6VWANTABJN4/s640/IMG_5037.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I’ve started using two large blanket pins to secure the blanket together; one at
the feet, and another one around my shoulders. That way the whole thing doesn’t
come apart of I turn in the middle of the night. <em>“…horse blanket pins will
make one (sleeping bag) of your blanket.”</em> Stewart Edward White, Camp and
Trail, 1911, p.87</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Kyk8Px85gnX34Gh6T3iZz5y7A5qNvHyz-aWw-zkuDDabwEvaBHI17saezyW5U2XAPs7SSx1KDr3Se7r1RjehveqpnK2kKA4sKcb6jSfam8rg0QgFD3hCj1qgLuRPiQ-moBp-od8H3e4/s1600/IMG_5062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Kyk8Px85gnX34Gh6T3iZz5y7A5qNvHyz-aWw-zkuDDabwEvaBHI17saezyW5U2XAPs7SSx1KDr3Se7r1RjehveqpnK2kKA4sKcb6jSfam8rg0QgFD3hCj1qgLuRPiQ-moBp-od8H3e4/s640/IMG_5062.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The above wrap has served me well, and allows for a relatively small blanket to
be used without wasting any material.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Let’s have no delusions though. Blankets are a miserable affair. Getting up when
nature calls in the middle of the night is miserable, requiring you to undo the
bundle you have created. Even if pee bottles were a thing back then (they
weren’t), I still don’t see a way of doing it without unfolding the blanket. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I’ve even seen people these days recommend blankets over sleeping bags for
various reasons, the main being that they are safer to use around a fire. That
is as true at it is ridiculous. It is the same as me deciding to walk the 50
miles to work each day instead of taking the train, so that I would avoid train
delays. True, I’ll avoid the delays, but it will take me two days to get to
work, making the delays irrelevant. Similarly, considering that for the weight
of a single blanket which will struggle to keep you warm at 32F (0C), I can get
a sleeping bag which will keep we warm at –40F (-40C) without the need for a
fire, the blanket is a poor choice. I want to stress that the only reason I am
using a blanket here is that I am trying to do what I am calling Classic
Backpacking, focusing on the time period of 1880 through 1930. Even by the
1950s, when On Your Own in the Wilderness by Col Townsend Whelen and Bradford
Angier (1958) was published, the blanket was discussed only as a relic from the
past. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Similarly, don’t buy into myths about how your wool insulation will keep you
warm even when wet. It will not. Take off all of your wet or damp clothing, and
keep the blanket as dry as possible. A wet blanket, no matter if made of cotton,
wool, or fibers spun by magical woodland elves, will get you in trouble when it
really counts. A dry pair of socks to sleep in will avoid a lot of discomfort. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I say all this for those who wish to try camping in the same manner. Please know
that it is no joke. A single blanket, or even two of them are a really poor form
of insulation compared to what we are used to these days. You will have to
adjust your approach accordingly. Anyone can go to their local campsite or
backyard where they have a precut pile of wood, and then show you how they sleep
with a blanket along a large long fire. Similarly, it is an easy enough task in the middle of summer, when one can spend the night out with no blankets at all. Doing the same thing in the woods after
a long day of backpacking, in winter, is a completely different story, and you
will have to manage your time and your energy well. Lastly, you have to have
realistic expectations and be prepared to have a hard night if things don’t go
as planner, or even if they do. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The sleep insulation has been my biggest concern, and will continue to be so.
I will see how well I can manage when the temperatures drop lower, and I’ll keep
you updated. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-41913014311703979512016-01-15T14:06:00.001-05:002016-01-15T14:21:57.504-05:00Classic Backpacking Gear - SheltersThe next piece of gear I want to discuss in the context of Classic Backpacking
is shelters. The amount written on the subject by authors of the time period is
quite large, so here I will try to hit the main points they are making, in
particular as it relates to traveling on foot.<br />
<br />
When considering shelters during the period between 1880 and 1930, there are
three aspects to discuss. The first is the material used in the shelters; the
second is the waterproofing techniques for the shelter, and the third is the
type of shelter, i.e. design of tent, tarp, etc.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga876J-TM33uqsOJRs5g4NQtNWEfUvqdbGQmFujbWTbIWbd6Oyz3TV2EGlOam7wAqPfteCjYs41cMeknjTVOfIjkaC_WK133CoBMJtMVR_3HYSMt08MMGiP7CM4Zkzy-gAM3pp6eFK0ag/s1600/IMG_4947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga876J-TM33uqsOJRs5g4NQtNWEfUvqdbGQmFujbWTbIWbd6Oyz3TV2EGlOam7wAqPfteCjYs41cMeknjTVOfIjkaC_WK133CoBMJtMVR_3HYSMt08MMGiP7CM4Zkzy-gAM3pp6eFK0ag/s640/IMG_4947.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<strong><u>Shelter Materials</u></strong><br />
<strong><u><br /></u></strong>
I will start with the aspect that I consider most important, the shelter
material. Shelter designs are numerous, and vary widely depending on the
personal preferences of the author. I will mention the preferences of some of
them as I go along. Lastly, I will discuss some of the common waterproofing
methods.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
I believe that we have a huge misconception when it comes to woodsmen of the
time period between 1880 and 1930. Many seem to imagine a rugged woodsman who
grew up in the wilderness, going into the woods with an axe, a canvas tarp, and
a blanket; and more importantly, doing so because he knows through his vast
experience that those tools are the best for the job. The reality appears to
have been very far from this. Since this is a post about shelters, let’s discuss
shelter realities.<br />
<br />
First and foremost, not a single author I have read, from Sears (Nessmuk) to
Kephart, used what today we would call canvas tarps or shelters. Canvas was just
as heavy back then, as it is now. Accordingly, woodsmen traveling on foot were
equally reluctant to use it for shelters. <br />
<br />
As a bit of general background for people unfamiliar with canvas, it is a
tightly woven material, typically made from cotton, but linen and hemp versions
can also be found. Duck canvas is more tightly woven, double duck typically
being preferred for shelter material. Canvas is usually referred to by weight:
10oz duck, 8oz duck, etc. The weight refers to the weight of the canvas per
square yard. So, 8oz duck weighs 8oz per square yard of fabric. 10oz (10.10 oz)
double duck, sometimes also called Army duck, is the material you typically see
these days for use in tents. Some manufacturers offer lighter tents in 8oz or
7oz duck, but 10oz double duck is the most popular, in particular because it
takes modern waterproofing treatments like Sunforger well.<br />
<br />
So, when we read of woodsmen from the past using canvas, we usually assume
that they were referring to what we think of as canvas, i.e. 10oz double duck.
During the time period we are considering here however, they certainly didn’t
use anything of the sort. A 10oz 8ftx6ft canvas tarp that was been waterproofed
with paraffin will weigh about 6 1/4 pounds. The weight is just too much,
especially if talking about more sizable shelters. The material that was
actually in use by just about everyone from Sears (Nessmuk) to Kephart, was
Egyptian cotton a/k/a balloon silk.<br />
<br />
“<em>Formerly a man had to make a choice between canvas, which is heavy but
fairly waterproof, and drill, which is light but flimsy. A seven by seven duck
tent weighs fully twenty-five pounds when dry, and a great many more when wet.
It will shed rain as long as you do not hit against it. A touch on the inside,
however, will often start a trickle at the point of contact. Altogether it is
unsatisfactory, and one does not wonder than many men prefer to knock together
bark shelters. Nowadays, however, another and better material is to be had. It
is the stuff balloons are made of, and is called balloon silk… A tent of the
size mentioned, instead of weighing twenty-five pounds, pulls the scales down at
about eight.”</em> Stewart Edward White, Camp and Trail, 1911 p.79<br />
<br />
“<em>The materials that are recommended (for an A frame tent) are placed in the
order of lightness. 1. Japanese Silk 2. "Thintus" (very fine cotton) 3. Best
Lawn, Egyptian (J. Goodman & Sons, 30, Glasshouse St.,W.) 4. Ordinary Lawn
(Piatt & Co., St. Martin's Lane, W.C ) 5. Fine Unbleached Linen
(edited).</em>” Thomas Hiram Holding, The Camper’s Handbook, 1908 p.321<br />
<br />
“<em>For a hunting- party of four men, I should consider a 7x9 Baker
shelter-tent, weighing 12 pounds in balloon silk, to be a good investment. It
has become standard for north woods and Canada hunting and fishing
parties.”</em> Warren Hastings Miller, Camp Craft, 1915 p.31<br />
<br />
<div>
This Egyptian cotton described as the preferred tent material by just about all
of the authors that I have previously listed as my sources, appears to have been
of very uniform quality. The weights listed be Sears (Nessmuk) match exactly the
weight of the material listed by Kephart, 26 years later, as well as every
author in between that time period. The weight given for the untreated Egyptian
cotton material prior to any waterproofing treatment is 3 1/2 oz per square
yard. In effect, we are talking about a modern bed sheet. In fact, most modern
bed sheets are a bit thicker, coming in closer to 4 oz per square yard. The
material is very thin, and in no way resembles what we typically call canvas.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
“<em>Of materials preferable for use in light weight tent-making waterproofed
balloon silk stands in a class by itself. Superseding the antiquated duck or
flimsy drill tents it is one of the items which has done much to make tramping
trips feasible and worth while. It is in reality not a silk at all but a closely
woven cotton cloth with a weight of but 3 1/2 ounces per square yard (10 ounce
duck waterproofed tips the scales at about 16 ounces). It is water proof, rot
proof, mildew proof and exceedingly durable. A leanto for the bivouacker can
then be kept down to three pounds.”</em> Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot, 1916
p.86</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
“<em>Tents that are to be carried on pack animals need to be of strong, heavy
duck, or else carried in stout bags; otherwise they will be ruined by the sawing
of lash ropes and snagging or rubbing against trees and rocks. For such work the
best of army duck is none too good… Otherwise the most suitable material is very
closely woven stuff made from Sea Island or Egyptian cotton, which has a long
and strong fiber. A thin cloth of this kind is stout enough for most purposes,
yet very light, and a tent made from it rolls up into a much smaller bundle than
one of duck. It comes in various weights and fineness of texture. The standard
grade of "balloon silk " runs about 3 1/2 oz. to the square yard in plain goods,
and 5 oz. when waterproofed with paraffine. This trade name, by the way, is an
absurdity: the stuff has no thread of silk in it, and the only ballooning it
ever does is when a wind gets under it.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and
Woodcraft Vol I, 1918 p.69</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It should be noted that the weight of a 9ft x 7ft tarp made of Egyptian cotton as
listed by Kephart (Camping and Woodcraft Vol II, p.105) exactly matches the
weight given for a 9ft x 7ft tarp as listed by Nessmuk (Woodcraft, p.39),
indicating the use of the exact same material. Some like Elmer Harry Kreps still
used materials like drill (Camp and Trail Methods, p.89), which Stewart Edward
White noted as outdated in his above quote a year later, but the consensus
appears to have been that for a person traveling on foot, shelter was to be made
of Egyptian cotton, which at the time appears to have been consistently 3 1/2 lb
per square yard prior to waterproofing, and according to Kephart, approximately
5 oz per square yard after waterproofing. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
That is not to say that other options wouldn’t be period appropriate. Several of
the above authors mention silk (actual silk, not balloon silk/Egyptian cotton)
as tent material, although Kephart wrote that it is too weak for prolonged use.
Actual canvas, both 10oz Army duck and lighter versions were certainly in wide
use for shelters that were intended to be transported by pack train, cars, etc.
It wouldn’t be out of the question for someone at the time to cut up a small
tarp out of such material and use it for their shelter, whether it be cotton
duck or linen. The preference however of these pioneers of backpacking seems to
have been Egyptian cotton. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<strong><u>Waterproofing Methods</u></strong><br />
<strong><u><br /></u></strong>
Canvas type materials are still in use today. As such, manufacturers have
developed modern waterproofing treatments for canvas. Some such treatments
resemble the old methods, others do not. One can purchase canvas tarps and tents
which look the part, but because they have been waterproofed in a modern way,
wouldn’t be functionally equivalent to the materials available during the 1880
to 1930 period. The most popular modern waterproofing method for canvas is the
Sunforger treatment. It is an excellent waterproofing method for canvas that
hardly adds any weight to the material. Such canvas can also be purchased with
fireproofing treatment. It is the material of choice for manufacturers like
Tentsmiths. Unfortunately, the treatment is not period correct. A canvas tarp
treated with period correct methods would be significantly heavier than its
untreated version. So, let’s look at some of the available period correct
methods:<br />
<br />
<em><u>Alum and Lime</u></em><br />
<em><u><br /></u></em>
George Washington Sears (Nessmuk) gives the following description: “<em>The
cloth does not even require hemming. It does, however, need a little
water-proofing; for which the following receipt will answer very well, and add
little or nothing to the weight: To 10 quarts of water add 10 ounces of lime,
and 4 ounces of alum; let it stand until clear; fold the cloth snugly and put it
in another vessel, pour the solution on it, let it soak for 12 hours; then rinse
in luke-warm rain water, stretch and dry in the sun, and the shanty-tent is
ready for use.</em>” George Washington Sears, Woodcraft, 1892 p.35<br />
<br />
However,
Kephart later comments that he has had no luck with waterproofing a shelter with
the method described by Nessmuk: “<em>I have had no success with the alum and
lime method mentioned by " Nessmuk."</em>’ Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft
Vol I, 1918 p.73 I am more inclined to trust Kephart’s writing than Nessmuks.<br />
<br />
Sears does however mention that the above method does not make the cloth
flame/spark resistant: “<em>Lastly, whatever cloth structure you may erect to
use for a camp, do not fail to cover the roof with a screen of green boughs
before building your camp- fire. Because, there will usually be one fellow in
camp who has a penchant for feeding the fire with old mulchy deadwood and brush,
for the fun of watching the blaze, and the sparks that are prone to fly upward;
forgetting that the blazing cinders are also prone to drop downward on the roof
of the tent, burning holes in it.”</em> George Washington Sears, Woodcraft, 1892
p.39<br />
<br />
These days it is often pontificated online that canvas is safe around fires. It
is nothing of the sort. While wool resists sparks and flame, cotton canvas,
unless it has received some fireproof treatment, is very vulnerable to sparks as
well as to drying out and catching fire.<br />
<br />
<em><u>Paraffin or Wax</u></em><br />
<em><u><br /></u></em>
“<em>Waterproofing by paraffin is a most satisfactory process and the one
most used by tent manufacturers… Simply put. into a tin vessel 3 pounds of
paraffin shavings (ordinary paraffin of the stores) and two gallons of gasolene
or turpentine. The receptacle, best with a closed top, is set in the sun or in a
tub of boiling water and never near a flame. When a solution is effected out
doors spread it on the stretched cloth by means of a brush, sponge or piece of
cheesecloth. The gasolene evaporates leaving a thin coating of paraffin in the
fibers of the cloth… To make it fire proof and rot proof as well as water
repellent I would treat the cloth first to an alum and sugar of lead solution
and then paraffin well as above.”</em> Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot ,1916
p.88<br />
<br />
A similar paraffin treatment is proposed by Kephart as the most effective
waterproofing option: “<em>The cheapest, simplest, and, in some respects, the
most satisfactory way is to get a cake or two of paraffine or cerasine, lay the
tent on a table, rub the outer side with the wax until it has a good coating
evenly distributed, then iron the cloth with a medium- hot flatiron, which melts
the wax and runs it into every pore of the cloth. The more closely woven the
cloth, the less wax and less total weight. Some prefer to treat the tent with a
solution of paraffine. In this case, cut the wax into shavings so it will
dissolve readily. Put 2 lbs. of the wax in 2 gallons of turpentine (for a 7x9
tent or thereabouts). Place the vessel in a tub of hot water until solution is
completed. Meantime set up the tent true and taut. Then paint it with the hot
solution, working rapidly, and using a stiff brush. Do this on a sunny morning
and let tent stand until quite dry. The turpentine adds a certain elasticity to
the wax; benzine does not.</em>” Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol I,
1918 p.72<br />
<br />
“<em>Paraffine is used either plain (in which case it is liable to crack or
flake in cold weather) or combined with some elastic substance. The " mineral
wax " called ozocerite or cerasine (often used as a substi tute for beeswax, and
sold by dealers in crude drugs) is not so brittle as paraffine, adheres better,
and, like paraffine, has no deleterious action on cloth, being chemically
neutral… The plain wax process renders cloth quite water proof, but adds
considerable weight, makes the stuff rather stiff, and increases its liability
to catch afire when exposed close to a stove or camp-fire…”</em> Horace Kephart,
Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918 p.71<br />
<br />
Undoubtedly, the paraffin method of waterproofing is not a particularly safe
option. Heating up wax mixed with gasoline or turpentine is as close you can get
to making home-made napalm without the ATF knocking on you door. Using your
wife’s iron to melt wax onto a tarp will even more certainly lead to a swift
death. The method however appears to have been the preferred one.<br />
<br />
It should again be noted that both authors mention that a fabric treated in
such a way is not flame resistant.
<br />
<br />
<em><u>Alum and Sugar of Lead</u></em>
<br />
<em><u><br /></u></em>
“<em>For tents to be used in cold weather before an open fire, the following
process is better: First soak the tent over night in water to rid it of sizing,
and hang up to dry. Then get enough soft water to make the solutions (rain water
is best; Some city waters will do, others are too hard). Have two tubs or
wash-boilers big enough for the purpose. In one, dissolve alum in hot soft
water, in the proportion of 1/4 lb. to the gallon. In the other, with the same
amount of hot water, dissolve sugar of lead (lead acetate — a poison) in the
same proportion. Let the solutions stand until clear; then add the sugar of lead
solution to the alum liquor. Let stand about four hours, or until all the lead
sulphate has precipitated. Then pour off the clear liquor from the dregs into
the other tub, thoroughly work the tent in it with the hands until every part is
quite penetrated, and let soak over night. In the morning, rinse well, stretch,
and hang up to dry. A closely woven cloth should be used…”</em> Horace Kephart,
Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918 p.73<br />
<br />
As quoted above, Fordyce also recommended the use of alum and sugar of lead, but
only for its fireproofing characteristics. He still recommended treating the
material with wax afterwards. <em>To make it fire proof and rot proof as well as
water repellent I would treat the cloth first to an alum and sugar of lead
solution and then paraffin well as above.”</em> Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot
,1916 p.88<br />
<br />
It should be noted that sugar of lead (lead acetate) is a poison. I think it
may still be in use in textile manufacturing, but I’m not sure how one can
actually get it, and I certainly wouldn’t recommend it. <br />
<br />
<em><u>Oiled Cloth</u></em><br />
<br />
“<em>For ground-sheets to use under bedding: get some of the best grade of
boiled linseed oil of a reputable paint dealer. One quart will cover five or six
square yards of heavy sheeting. Four it into a pan big enough to dip your hand
into. Lay out the cloth and rub the oil into it between your palms, using just
enough oil at a time to soak the cloth through, filling the pores, but leaving
no surplus. Then stretch it in a barn or garret, or other dry shady place, for
one week. Finish drying by hanging in the sunlight three or four days, first one
side up, then the other.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918
p.73<br />
<br />
“<em>Cloth proofed with linseed or other drying oil is not strong enough for
tenting (for its weight); it is sticky in hot weather, stiff in cold, and
dangerously inflammable.”</em> Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol I, 1918
p.71<br />
<br />
There must have certainly been other methods for treating tent/tarp material,
and Kephart does mention that each manufacturer makes their own, but the above
are the most common ones that I have noticed.<br />
<br />
<strong><u>Types of Shelters</u></strong><br />
<strong><u><br /></u></strong>
As I mentioned earlier, the type of shelter recommended by each author
changes based on their personal preferences. I will quickly touch on some of
them.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsY0dNi3Dp6oS-1DdEGptJSASVi5OudnikliJyJZpKQpDRMh3ZTjczObHXEf7WqlVvF5K6Q8nzO38TTcCdo9Hw_aIX194JT6JFTDDvfnsOsMnW8oppHMhMNVB0Lhg02MjNglKzeFC8htU/s1600/Scrambles+Alps+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="365" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsY0dNi3Dp6oS-1DdEGptJSASVi5OudnikliJyJZpKQpDRMh3ZTjczObHXEf7WqlVvF5K6Q8nzO38TTcCdo9Hw_aIX194JT6JFTDDvfnsOsMnW8oppHMhMNVB0Lhg02MjNglKzeFC8htU/s640/Scrambles+Alps+1.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The above is drawing of a four person tent used by Edward Whymper and his team
when climbing in the Alps. I will save you the full description of the tent, but
if interested you can read it in Scrambles Amongst the Alps by Edward Whymper,
1872 p.46-47.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The above A frame design continued to be a popular design during the period of
1880 through 1930. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>For three seasons I have come gradually to thinking that an A or wedge tent
is about the proper thing. In event of that rain storm or those flies its
advantages are obvious. When a cold snap comes along, you simply pull up the
stakes along one side, tie the loops of that wall to the same stakes that hold
down the other wall — and there is your lean-to all ready for the fire.”</em>
Stewart Edward White, Camp and Trail, 1911 p.84</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Other authors had different preferences, usually changing with the season. A
number of them preferred tarp for warm weather, and some sort of more enclosed
tent for winter. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>For a summer camp, however, I have finally come to prefer the simple
lean-to or shed roof. It is the lightest, simplest and cheapest of all cloth
devices for camping out, and I have found it sufficient for all weathers from
June until the fall of the leaves. It is only a sheet of strong cotton cloth 9x7
feet, and soaked in lime and alum-water as the other…The one I have used for two
seasons cost sixty cents, and weighs 2 1/4 pounds. It makes a good shelter for a
party of three; and if it be found a little too breezy for cool nights, a
sufficient wind break can be made by driving light stakes at the sides and
weaving in a siding of hemlock boughs.”</em> George Washington Sears, Woodcraft,
1892 p.38-39</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>As good a camp as I have ever tried — perhaps the best — is the "shanty
tent," shown in the illustration. It is easily put up, is comfortable, neat, and
absolutely rain-proof. Of course, it may be of any required size; but, for a
party of two, the following dimensions and directions will be found all
sufficient: Firstly, the roof. This is merely a sheet of strong cotton cloth 9
feet long by 4 or feet in width. The sides, of the same material, to be 4}4 feet
deep at front, and 2 feet deep at the back. This gives 7 feet along the edge of
the roof, leaving 2 feet for turning down at the back end of the shanty. It will
be seen that the sides must be "cut bias," to compensate for the angle of the
roof, otherwise the shanty will not be square and ship-shape when put up. No
buttons, strings or loops. The cloth does not even require hemming. It does,
however, need a little water-proofing; for which the following receipt will
answer very well, and add little or nothing to the weight: To 10 quarts of water
add 10 ounces of lime, and 4 ounces of alum; let it stand until clear; fold the
cloth snugly and put it in another vessel, pour the solution on it, let it soak
for 12 hours; then rinse in luke-warm rain water, stretch and dry in the sun,
and the shanty-tent is ready for use.</em> </div>
<br />
<em>The above description of the shanty-tent may seem a trifle elaborate, but I
hope it is plain. The affair weighs just three pounds, and it takes a skillful
woods man about three hours of easy work to put it in the shape described.
Leaving out some of the work, and only aiming to get it up in square shape as
quickly as possible, I can put it up in an hour.”</em> George Washington Sears,
Woodcraft, 1892 p.34-35<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXFMOFR0riFQQsXpWHz8PAYx0AfL51pVLoVNeYe5xJ08IhmJyejnrjY-rSkhtmL6lJL5GQIdUdrwYFP_izoLxiJZv0dTperXDjhbkwyQSBU5przMUaEW80QI2sihGzFthFniLjRmT1RYY/s1600/Nessmuk+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXFMOFR0riFQQsXpWHz8PAYx0AfL51pVLoVNeYe5xJ08IhmJyejnrjY-rSkhtmL6lJL5GQIdUdrwYFP_izoLxiJZv0dTperXDjhbkwyQSBU5przMUaEW80QI2sihGzFthFniLjRmT1RYY/s640/Nessmuk+1.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I think it is very interesting that Sears (Nessmuk) considered it perfectly
reasonable that it would take three (3) hours for a skilled woodsman to put up a
tent. By today’s standards that is absolutely ridiculous. On a short winter day,
combined with the time needed for collecting fire wood, setting up camp would
have taken about half the day. Setting up camp was clearly a much more elaborate
process back then, even for a person on the move.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Tent designs similar to the one above were popular with other woodsmen as well.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>To me the open tent with the backlog fire is the acme of forest life. I
have camped in teepee, wall-tent, A-tent, shack, shelter- tent, lean-to, leaf
pile, canoe-tent, and Forester, but my pleasantest memories cluster around the
open- tent camps with a bright camp-fire in front.”</em> Warren Hastings Miller,
Camp Craft, 1915 p.41</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Like Sears (Nessmuk), Kephart preferred a tarp for warm weather and a tent for
winter. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>Shelter cloth, 7x9 ft., waterproof 2lb 4oz</em>.” Horace Kephart, Camping
and Woodcraft Vol II, 1918 p.105</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>It is enough in most parts of our country, but warmer bedding would be
required at high altitudes, and perhaps a closed tent, such as the "Compac" or
one of the semi-pyramid type, weighing 3 1/2 to 4 pounds, instead of the
one-pound shelter cloth</em>.” Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol II,
1918 p.104</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Elmer Harry Kreps seems to have preferred a small modified tarp year round.
“<em>For the trapper who is inclined to travel lightly, there is only one tent
to use for the long line, where one seldom spends two nights in succession on
the same camp site. That is the shelter tent or leanto…I prefer to make one for
my own use, and have made and used several such. The illustration shows the
style. A convenient size for one person is 5 x 7 feet ; for two it should be
somewhat larger. Triangular corners are sewn to each end, and when the shelter
is pitched at the proper angle these pieces effectually close the ends. It is
best to have a ten inch sod cloth to prevent the wind from entering at the
bottom</em>.” Elmer Harry Kreps, Camp and Trail Methods, 1910 p.89</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVypdPQRhLb-dQEfKv2ZyeAjlKoHUBNI-DYMqxsLD3u5e-8xXUF9QOgZO7zf8kIA1AKnWuAfw1OOZtSKHWBcEFwjdHM1Bl4IIMKnkHVzoBGlrBjSwaZvEwoPoUvcPl-dJs3ezGDC34MQ/s1600/Kreps+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVypdPQRhLb-dQEfKv2ZyeAjlKoHUBNI-DYMqxsLD3u5e-8xXUF9QOgZO7zf8kIA1AKnWuAfw1OOZtSKHWBcEFwjdHM1Bl4IIMKnkHVzoBGlrBjSwaZvEwoPoUvcPl-dJs3ezGDC34MQ/s640/Kreps+1.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It should be made clear that the examples given here are intended for a person
traveling on foot, carrying all of their gear on their back. Each author had
their own preferences for larger and more elaborate shelters when it came to
permanent camps or travel by pack train or other methods.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
One other thing you may also notice when reading the books is that some of the
authors refer to using “mackintosh” as flooring for their shelters. Macintosh is
a rubber coated fabric patented by Charles Macintosh in 1823. It was a
waterproof material that some of the authors used for shelter floors or rain
protection, although none of them seem to have tried constructing shelters from
it. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now, that I have given you a summary of the source materials on which I am
relying, let me say a bit about my current choice of a Classic Backpacking
shelter. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuhjMDGUgaSUo_nc_qepIR4EGgpViZFrR0HVXZAzetM-O-T9_5DOuOWUft-dUtShikQi-XPYtSmc3Yy-OvTt-en20MPkw-Y1O-QedKTjhKHluGP56DWRyJwLrpg1Dy6heW5uFOruv0Fjk/s1600/IMG_4951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuhjMDGUgaSUo_nc_qepIR4EGgpViZFrR0HVXZAzetM-O-T9_5DOuOWUft-dUtShikQi-XPYtSmc3Yy-OvTt-en20MPkw-Y1O-QedKTjhKHluGP56DWRyJwLrpg1Dy6heW5uFOruv0Fjk/s640/IMG_4951.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In terms of design, I decided to go with a tarp for several reasons. For
starters, I’ve decided to rely just on a blanket for warmth, am issue I will
discuss in a later post. As a result, during winter I will need to use a fire to
stay warm at least part of the night. Therefore, I need a shelter that is open
on at least one side so that I can work with the fire. I could have constructed
a shelter similar to that depicted by Kreps, but I chose not. One reason for not
doing it is that I have to sew everything by hand, and I wasn’t looking forward
to all that sewing. The other, and more important reason is that in my opinion
leanto style shelters are useless in bad weather. They are nice when everything
is calm and you have a nice fire in front, but if there is any significant rain
or snow, they might as well not be there. See, rain and snow don’t fall at 90
degree angle to the ground. They move around and come in at different angles. If
you are in a shelter where one side if open, you will spend a significant part
of the night with rain or snow beating directly in your face. With a tarp like
this one, I can pitch it into an A frame type tent and stay protected if the
weather turned.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For the material, I made the same choice that all of the above authors made,
Egyptian cotton. I simply went to Walmart and bought a Full size 600 thread
count Egyptian cotton bed sheet, 86in x 96in (7ft 2in x 8ft). I also bought the
pillow cases for the same set, to use as material for stuff sacks, etc. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The material is as close to what was used by the likes of Kephart and Nessmuk as
I can get. It is the same material (100% Egyptian cotton), although it is
probably higher thread count than what they ha back then. It is also probably a
bit thicker because when I do the math, the weight of the tarp ( with folded and
finished edges, etc) is 4 1/2 oz per square yard, about an ounce more than the
material used by the above authors. The total weight of the untreated tarp is
1lb 13.7 oz (29.7oz). </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For water treatment, I decided to turn it into oilcloth using boiled linseed
oil. The process was clearly available at the time, and even earlier, although
it was not preferred method listed by any of the authors. The reason why I chose
this method is because it was the easiest and safest for me to do. I’ve used to
ironing method to coat a tarp with wax before, and it’s a real pain. There is no
way I am mixing molten wax with turpentine of gasoline, and I’m not using lead
acetate, even if I could find it. That left me with oil cloth as the period
correct method of waterproofing. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_DMUxo34Bp9sgtANGxlfsB5WrgdSzP6f7nZkEVHcynOnMA6j8BqqdVol2aAhYapHW3jWAuJAbkNuf_yASG9VpQ0_j2slhZliFbX2WnNVpbKge2htR6s5OkhAbmnrW98fP7WLT5mCyTJY/s1600/IMG_4550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_DMUxo34Bp9sgtANGxlfsB5WrgdSzP6f7nZkEVHcynOnMA6j8BqqdVol2aAhYapHW3jWAuJAbkNuf_yASG9VpQ0_j2slhZliFbX2WnNVpbKge2htR6s5OkhAbmnrW98fP7WLT5mCyTJY/s640/IMG_4550.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I used a method I was familiar with. I mixed equal parts boiled linseed oil and
mineral spirits. The mineral spirits just serves to thin out the linseed oil so
that it is easier to apply. Because of that I didn’t bother to check whether the
components of the mineral spirits were period correct. You can use other
diluting agents if you wish. I got both from Home Depot. I applied the oil with
a brush because I wanted to use just enough to coat the material without letting
any of it pool. When I was done, I hung it up to dry.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOk_Vc6qfrh_Tr77DLL3VIYE7GrbvdJ6tIfTYY6kLLTwqiRaP-Hoor7Vt_wq_XQ17l0ViegdwTf149bvN9oZNoSCMe42OScWiMPj7pr8_Ayn8Qn-jQiyRk5NPWRlKvYJP_wSI_XmFyzOQ/s1600/IMG_4565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOk_Vc6qfrh_Tr77DLL3VIYE7GrbvdJ6tIfTYY6kLLTwqiRaP-Hoor7Vt_wq_XQ17l0ViegdwTf149bvN9oZNoSCMe42OScWiMPj7pr8_Ayn8Qn-jQiyRk5NPWRlKvYJP_wSI_XmFyzOQ/s640/IMG_4565.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After about six hours I flipped the tarp upside down so that the edge that was
on the bottom would be on top. That way the oil would distribute more evenly and
not pool along the bottom edge. After a day in the garage, I brought the tarp
inside to dry completely as the garage was too cold to get it done. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When drying the tarp, leave it spread out. Linseed oil produces heat when it
dries, and if you have the tarp bundled up, you can actually get ignition, or
damage the tarp.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I sewed loops made of cotton string on the corners and about every two feet. I’m
still worried that the string will not be strong enough, but it has held so far. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I made a stuff sack from part of one of the pillow cases and treated it the same
way. That way when the tarp is wet I can keep the rest of my pack dry. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After being treated, the tarp weight 3lb 0.8oz (48.8oz), a significant weight
increase, but still very manageable and matches the weight increase listed by
Kephart. It is light compared to my wax treated 10oz, 6ft x 8ft canvas tarp,
which weights 6lb 5oz, and is about two and a half times the size. It is easy to
see why canvas was rarely used even in the late 19th century by people traveling
on foot. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, that’s what I use for now. It seems to be working well, and wasn’t a
difficult project. </div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-45077762839086086852016-01-12T08:49:00.000-05:002016-01-12T09:10:57.468-05:00Classic Backpacking Gear - PacksThe first piece of <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a> gear that I would like to discuss is the
pack. I want to point to some things that I have discovered during my research,
and to tell you what I use as an affordable option.<br />
<br />
What we have to remember before we start looking into packs is that backpacking
technology as we know it was almost non-existent at the time. Traveling on foot
with all of your gear on your back was not something that was done all too
often. The standard form of travel in the wilderness was by horses or canoes.
You can check out my posts on <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2014/01/18th-century-woodsmanship-and-its.html" target="_blank">18th Century Woodsmanship and Its Modern Applications</a> and <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2014/03/19th-century-woodsmanship-and-its.html" target="_blank">19th Century Woodsmanship and Its Modern Applications</a>. The
practice of carrying all of your gear on your back when in the woods starts to
develop during the 1880 through 1930 period, and backpack technology developed
along with it.<br />
<br />
From what I have seen, there were two main sources for pack technology that
influenced pack use by woodsmen during what I am calling the Classic Backpacking
period (1880-1930). The first is rucksacks; a small bag with two shoulder
straps. The second was portage packs; larger packs with shoulder straps and
tumplines, designed to carry larger amounts of gear on canoe trips, primarily
when the canoes had to be carried from one body of water to another. Preferred
designs leaned to one side or the other depending on the author. <br />
<br />
In some of the earlier writings, we can see remnants of the methods used by
soldiers for carrying their gear, which would later be replaced by packs of
different types.<br />
<br />
“<em>For carrying your baggage you will perhaps prefer a knapsack, though many
old soldiers are not partial to that article. There are also for sale broad
straps and other devices substitutes for the knapsack. Whatever you take, be
sure it has broad straps to go over your shoulders: otherwise you will be
constantly annoyed from their cutting and chafing you. You can dispense with the
knapsack altogether in the same way that soldiers do,— by rolling up in your
blanket whatever you have to carry. You will need to take some pains in this,
and perhaps call a comrade to assist you.”</em> John Mead Gould, How to Camp
Out, 1877 p.23<br />
<br />
While the practice of carrying a blanket roll was apparently still around in the time period with which we are concerned, 1880 through 1930, it was not popular with any of the authors I have previously listed. Kephart even comments on his dislike for the blanket roll: "<i>Some pedestrians like the blanket roll because it saves the expense and weight of a pack-sack or harness, and because it can be shifted from one side to the other. In reality nothing is gained in ease of carrying, but rather the contrary. All the weight is thrown on one shoulder at a time, and there is no help from the hips. A man can carry a heavier load in a pack-sack with less fatigue in the long run.</i>" Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft Vol II, 1918 p.118<br />
<br />
A decade and a half after John Mead Gould's writings, the practice of carrying gear wrapped in a blanket
over your shoulder appears to have gone out of favor, and replaced by the use of
packs.<br />
<br />
<em>“Firstly, the knapsack; as you are apt to carry it a great many miles, it is
well to have it right, and easy- fitting at the start. Don't be induced to carry
a pack basket… The loaded pack basket on a heavy carry never fails to get in on
the most vulnerable knob of the human vertebras. The knapsack sits easy, and
does not chafe. The one shown in the engraving is of good form; and the original
— which I have carried for years — is satisfactory in every respect. It holds
over half a bushel (approximately 18 litters; Kephart mentions one that is the
same design but about 24 litters p.128 of Camping and Woodcraft Vol II), carries
blanket-bag, shelter tent, hatchet, ditty-bag, tinware, fishing tackle, clothes
and two days' rations. It weighs, empty, just twelve ounces.”</em> George
Washington Sears (Nessmuk), Woodcraft, 1892 p.8<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLdoinLJjW9m6EEE-r2JsSMfmz3E9uFMD8ymfxjf4NNxccKpoUMP1TYf3pvo6h2SLASX-Jm7Tquj5kKmlkMUilxC84yCl_zrtqZHw-yWDIeWQeQ9NkZUtL7N1Uyg8dFLHQVggluYi6yms/s1600/Nessmuk+Woodcraft+p9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="329" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLdoinLJjW9m6EEE-r2JsSMfmz3E9uFMD8ymfxjf4NNxccKpoUMP1TYf3pvo6h2SLASX-Jm7Tquj5kKmlkMUilxC84yCl_zrtqZHw-yWDIeWQeQ9NkZUtL7N1Uyg8dFLHQVggluYi6yms/s640/Nessmuk+Woodcraft+p9.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The pack described by Nessmuk is similar to what later Kephart describes as a
rucksack design which was in use in Europe. Kephart states such packs were too
small to carry all of one’s gear, althoughhe mentions Nessmuk’s was a larger
pack sack of such design. I have no reason to doubt that these rucksacks were of
European origin, although it does appear that large versions existed in Europe,
as such packs were used by Edward Whymper to climb the Alps in 1872. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUnKeXgDxZrEggI5HXlQd2rMHDQMtBcTMWJS_-2inC7NgiEGYPydxWQCUYb1Giw78tkOP06n9GQ6OX8M6yFP3x60zGL1XcIfKJuu7klhAYG3eJ1ImSYTCqhsn4FNGwVBiXQB13TFIv_AI/s1600/Whymper+Scrambles+Amongst+the+Alps+p95.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUnKeXgDxZrEggI5HXlQd2rMHDQMtBcTMWJS_-2inC7NgiEGYPydxWQCUYb1Giw78tkOP06n9GQ6OX8M6yFP3x60zGL1XcIfKJuu7klhAYG3eJ1ImSYTCqhsn4FNGwVBiXQB13TFIv_AI/s640/Whymper+Scrambles+Amongst+the+Alps+p95.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
Similar design of pack seems to have been preferred by some other authors as
well.<br />
<br />
“<em>This is made inside of linen for strength, and is covered with the gossamer
mackintosh. It consists of a square sack drawn in round the neck by a cord,
having a flap, as sewn, to keep out the wet, with an outer pocket for articles
to be bought en route. The straps are so placed as to lie into the hollow of the
shoulder where the braces are and so leave the neck free. From the two bottom
corners a strap comes round the waist and not only holds the bag in position but
it takes part of the weight on the hip bones</em>.” Thomas Hiram Holding, The
Camper’s Handbook, 1908 p.369<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6I3yWO39SRg8Y9asQEKb79gfSL72DgWB9r_1MkVGChxS8wbq2Q9CZogdOnfwrr9w9l9JVrO5Ox0uPlAehOWLO2CyVthphcxRMK6PNEb7cgrQitROX3QEPsPWBKeXEWxc-KBrJVuxBWyk/s1600/Holding+The+Campers+Handbook+p369.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6I3yWO39SRg8Y9asQEKb79gfSL72DgWB9r_1MkVGChxS8wbq2Q9CZogdOnfwrr9w9l9JVrO5Ox0uPlAehOWLO2CyVthphcxRMK6PNEb7cgrQitROX3QEPsPWBKeXEWxc-KBrJVuxBWyk/s640/Holding+The+Campers+Handbook+p369.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Most woodsmen whose writings I have read, seemed to personally prefer a Duluth
pack. Duluth still sells these packs today in their canoe section. They are
portage packs that were adopted for general use by many woodsman at the time.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>For the trapper who is tending a long line of traps, and always has
something to carry with him, also for any person who is going into the woods for
a camping trip, making long trips and carrying a light outfit, I recommend the
use of the pack sack. As its name implies it is a sack or bag, made of duck, and
fitted with both shoulder and head straps, all adjustable… The sack is made
square, about twenty-six or twenty-eight inches in size and has a nap covering
the top and fastening with three straps and buckles. The head and shoulder
straps are fastened securely to the opposite side and should be made of heavy
leather, the shoulder straps being placed very close together at the top, so
that there will be no trouble in keeping them in place.” </em>Elmer Harry Kreps,
Camp and Trail Methods, 1910 p.40-41</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI_1m6CESuLkJ2OnXDGjqWhyphenhypheneMfTiECXzFjIH8tT358Kkq37lcAzUXcSqV0DiQPjADlVwvJ42F3LpQlRDVn4NXuxG0sbrqaM55Tp-29B8wfy9UlICRzqkxQA4tgfqdYF215S5OPya8o-U/s1600/Kreps+Camp+and+Trail+Methods+p40-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI_1m6CESuLkJ2OnXDGjqWhyphenhypheneMfTiECXzFjIH8tT358Kkq37lcAzUXcSqV0DiQPjADlVwvJ42F3LpQlRDVn4NXuxG0sbrqaM55Tp-29B8wfy9UlICRzqkxQA4tgfqdYF215S5OPya8o-U/s640/Kreps+Camp+and+Trail+Methods+p40-2.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>The harness for packs is varied enough, but the principle remains simple. A
light pack will hang well enough from the shoulders, but when any weight is to
be negotiated you must call into play the powerful muscles lying along the neck.
Therefore, in general, an ordinary knapsack will answer very well for packs up
to say thirty pounds. Get the straps broad and soft; see that they are both
sewed and riveted. When, however, your pack mounts to above thirty pounds you
will need some sort of strap to pass across the top of your head. This is known
as a tumpline, and consists of a band of leather to cross the head, and two long
thongs to secure the pack.” </em>Stewart Edward White, Camp and Trail,1911 p.227</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The pack in many respects is not all that different from a rucksack, except that
it is a bit more square/rectangular, and has a tumpline. The tumpline allows the
carrier to use his head as additional support for the load and for extra
stability. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em>“The haversack or knapsack slung by a strap from one shoulder is out of date
and never measured up to the requirements for use in heavy packing. It is handy
for lunches or as a ditty or emergency kit bag. The best pack sack was
originated and put out by one Poirier of Duluth some twenty-five years ago and
was originally really the whiteman's improvement of the Indian tump line and
pack cloth, ingeniously folded and tied so as to serve as a sack with suspension
harness. As listed today by most outfitting firms it consists of a sack with
shoulder straps and head suspension. It is a very desirable article from the
point of view of the wilderness voyageur as he is enabled to ease up different
sets of muscles while on the hike and in handling a heavy pack the combined use
of the neck and shoulder muscles are brought into play. _ This pack goes under
the name of the Duluth, Poirier, Woodsman or Northwestern Pack and with slight
modifications is listed under other names by various dealers in camp supplies.
The genuine, however, consists of a simple flat bag of dimensions twenty-eight
by thirty inches with adjustable shoulder and head straps. It has a large top
flap with three long straps to hold it down thus enabling one to ad just it to a
large or small pack. The following features are to be insisted upon — get the
straps broad and soft and see to it that the connections are both sewed and
riveted. The Poirier pack is much used on the Canadian border and is easily
procurable or it can be made at home.</em>” Claude P. Fordyce, Touring Afoot,
1916 p.57-58</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjssbJQ18jQ7iKPpKcV5YTam0VYJdZc__0RCGd6C7nENv4gdicaiAGdyz19CfuPs15qxpryOBcoiS7wfRT7d4uW44Zvl_LxY0WESNlY5CZm0e6t3qHyLb79dneBBMdyxx8G-g-XnxczyhQ/s1600/Fodryce+Touring+Afoot+p57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjssbJQ18jQ7iKPpKcV5YTam0VYJdZc__0RCGd6C7nENv4gdicaiAGdyz19CfuPs15qxpryOBcoiS7wfRT7d4uW44Zvl_LxY0WESNlY5CZm0e6t3qHyLb79dneBBMdyxx8G-g-XnxczyhQ/s640/Fodryce+Touring+Afoot+p57.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Horace Kephart seems to agree with Kreps and Fordyce. He gives thee examples of
what he considers good pack sacks out of all of the available options. One of
them is the Nessmuk type pack, the second is the Duluth pack, and the third is
the Whelen pack. Both the Nessmuk and the Whelen packs appear to be large
rucksacks, with the Duluth pack offering a tumpline and a more rectangular
shape. His preference was for the Duluth pack.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGjv6eWwxwmsUDoL3gKCoA-Kyr0KC19sute58L0jMkliXxMDD9TrOJvMavq25M8UovsUVsinmOXoB8kBxLCi0i7Dc1ttnpGwo0hc0TEhAD91lGcsula7Y1qxRQ94GKIeSpBLWwnRxKXpI/s1600/Kephart+Camping+and+Woodcraft+p129-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGjv6eWwxwmsUDoL3gKCoA-Kyr0KC19sute58L0jMkliXxMDD9TrOJvMavq25M8UovsUVsinmOXoB8kBxLCi0i7Dc1ttnpGwo0hc0TEhAD91lGcsula7Y1qxRQ94GKIeSpBLWwnRxKXpI/s640/Kephart+Camping+and+Woodcraft+p129-2.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
“<em>For regular packing, when one sleeps out, the best pack sack at a moderate
price that I know of is what is known as the Duluth, or, from its inventor, the
Poirier pattern (Fig 32). Originally made for trappers, timber cruisers, and
other professional woodsmen, it is now used by many sportsmen as well. The
Duluth sack has no boxed sides, but is sewed up in the form of a simple bag, and
so is made wider and higher than boxed ones of equal capacity... The standard
sizes and weights, in A grade, are as follows: No. 1. 24 x 26 inches- 2 1/4
lbs.; No. 2. 26 x 28 inches- 2 1/2 lbs.; No. 3. 28 x 30 inches- 2 3/4 lbs. For a
pedestrian the No. 1 or No. 2 is large enough.</em>” Horace Kephart, Camping and
Woodcraft Vol II, 1918 p.129</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The above of course is a small sampling of the available literature on the
subject. Kephart probably has the most in dept discussion on packs out of all
the authors mentioned. I do think however that it gives a good idea of what was
available and actually in use by woodsmen at the time. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, moving away from the text, I my goal within this Classic Backpacking thing I
am trying to do, was to find a suitable pack which would be functionally
equivalent to the packs discussed above, without costing too much. You can
actually go on the Duluth website and purchase a <a href="https://www.duluthpack.com/duluth-packs-canoe-pack.html" target="_blank">#2
Canoe Pack</a>, which will be just about an exact replica of what Kephart used.
However, you would have to pay upwards of $200 for it. I am okay spending that
type of money for a good pack, but I am not willing to do it for a canvas bag
with two straps.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
An affordable option I was able to find was the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6IY8AO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03" target="_blank">Gootium 21101 Pack</a>, size Large. It is a random pack that I
found on Amazon, but I was very happy with the purchase. For $43 I think it’s a
good choice. The pack weight 2lb 1.0oz.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinWILT50VF9iCxd4XfIgnQjV4M4JqQAOQLK2xNIhxRnDLocBaBaMiEEhkE6J-VfC1RtiksBMXqrfFoE8juD-Bc4k8uiGd6Wkt-8p_1QhS7UCxv9dipGgW3quCLNtlKxi8l0gW6zAYcHNE/s1600/IMG_4722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinWILT50VF9iCxd4XfIgnQjV4M4JqQAOQLK2xNIhxRnDLocBaBaMiEEhkE6J-VfC1RtiksBMXqrfFoE8juD-Bc4k8uiGd6Wkt-8p_1QhS7UCxv9dipGgW3quCLNtlKxi8l0gW6zAYcHNE/s640/IMG_4722.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLXNWtt-zd9lEgskUH6zEZqgy1FciGlT6gUiSfUy3nlgBEDuTbRm44VgmN6rHnplrORTStWvazDffoPCpngvjoV1UJOiHnBDAt3cjFYx-OcWwib5TKq9Vqkd57bpgbMJ0jgZWQ-_j-PUE/s1600/IMG_4763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLXNWtt-zd9lEgskUH6zEZqgy1FciGlT6gUiSfUy3nlgBEDuTbRm44VgmN6rHnplrORTStWvazDffoPCpngvjoV1UJOiHnBDAt3cjFYx-OcWwib5TKq9Vqkd57bpgbMJ0jgZWQ-_j-PUE/s640/IMG_4763.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The pack is 2048 cubic inches (34 litters). I find it large enough to hold a
large wool blanket, a tarp, a 2L pot, a canteen, a cup, a sweater, and all my
other odds and ends. In the pictures above it is very filled, so it looks like
it has a shape, but it’s just a large canvas bag with a draw cord on the top, a
flap to cover the opening, two straps, and some small external pockets. It is
very similar to the pack illustrated in Thomas Hiram Holding’s The Camper’s
Handbook, as well as the Whelen pack illustrated in Kephart’s Camping and
Woodcraft.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbgrCDa-RbFpObhr1n2M59B4L4O5wqq1mJtwlfFiry0J4EQa1YIciZxe382q7gWAy2TyEafIwzfj_CSuMo3Qx3Sfcv3ywMH7LpxeM_8tCFCG_10NtvOvGXSK84myrMXOFdmCPPTvETis/s1600/IMG_4998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbgrCDa-RbFpObhr1n2M59B4L4O5wqq1mJtwlfFiry0J4EQa1YIciZxe382q7gWAy2TyEafIwzfj_CSuMo3Qx3Sfcv3ywMH7LpxeM_8tCFCG_10NtvOvGXSK84myrMXOFdmCPPTvETis/s640/IMG_4998.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As you can see from the above picture, there are no axe holding accessories on
the pack. When I need a larger axe, I carry it similarly to the way one would
carry an ice axe. I slide it down between my shoulders and let it come out
through the shoulder strap one one side. The only difference is that I slide it
through the handle on top of the pack. It is surprisingly comfortable due to the
lack on frame or rigidity in the pack.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There are two noticeable inaccuracies with the pack that you may want to
address. The first is that there is a zippered pocket inside the pack. It just
dangles from the top and is very easy to cut off. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The second is that under each of the buckles, there is a brass snap. This allows
you to quickly open the pack without having to undo the buckles. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCAOAXnTpZRa-XNsgYbFAoThgL2kCRIcn6m4W8JOIPMeKfgeVm2plOSuHIaOl78BdezSBM-dD3NCQRgV5OKmRYagOakAp49inKFpy9XLV5YZI7wQu7fS-QsJspfEn-FR91jDRf6ObmlZ8/s1600/IMG_5152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCAOAXnTpZRa-XNsgYbFAoThgL2kCRIcn6m4W8JOIPMeKfgeVm2plOSuHIaOl78BdezSBM-dD3NCQRgV5OKmRYagOakAp49inKFpy9XLV5YZI7wQu7fS-QsJspfEn-FR91jDRf6ObmlZ8/s640/IMG_5152.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
While I believe brass snaps were around during the time period in question, I
seriously doubt that there were any packs with this type of construction. The
problem is easy to fix. You can epoxy the snaps shut, or you can sew the are
around the snaps to the leather underneath.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Of course, I am not trying to tell you that you should get this pack. If you
look around, you can probably do better, especially if you are willing to spend
a bit more money. For me thought, it is a good fit, and I believe is very
functionally equivalent to the type of packs that were around between 1880 and
1930. It is also very similar to the type of packs we used to use back in the
old country when I was growing up, so it brings back memories. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The size of the pack (34L) is perfect for me. During my regular backpacking, I
use a 40L pack, and most of the time it’s a third empty.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwh_olykpH1q3U5XIEuvZje610pzZMo8b1ICu2yPLyIVTFQjeMx74tuz3yOt5lU3gf1FGKlifZgzKoI8mvzT3t1b4Q5qInDCg3GM2KvttHLnRj3IJaCRYCgMlGi9vQWgakh-7BZu4np0/s1600/IMG_5074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwh_olykpH1q3U5XIEuvZje610pzZMo8b1ICu2yPLyIVTFQjeMx74tuz3yOt5lU3gf1FGKlifZgzKoI8mvzT3t1b4Q5qInDCg3GM2KvttHLnRj3IJaCRYCgMlGi9vQWgakh-7BZu4np0/s640/IMG_5074.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here for a winter trip, I have to fill up this pack to the top, especially
because I have a bulky blanket. Three days of food is about the maximum I can
fit in it, so for longer trip I would either need a larger pack, or I would have
to strap things to the outside of the pack. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lastly, I leave you with an image of the actual pack used by Horace Kephart, along with its tumpline, held at Western Carolina University. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlfGXZviec-rTsgFPyI4oKzGmRIuAqetzDd1E_4YcSt0qq5G6NN9kVn3i6OYA-VKfaBiEJt74Ak6iWhuqPiKnWj7fO-E0Mx80P6SePH_9-4o-S5pcv1hs2itASWJMUwPPTNgVLzGiVJvI/s1600/download.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="672" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlfGXZviec-rTsgFPyI4oKzGmRIuAqetzDd1E_4YcSt0qq5G6NN9kVn3i6OYA-VKfaBiEJt74Ak6iWhuqPiKnWj7fO-E0Mx80P6SePH_9-4o-S5pcv1hs2itASWJMUwPPTNgVLzGiVJvI/s640/download.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
The above is just a general overview of packs. I believe, based on my reading
of the source materials, that the most functionally accurate pack for Classic
Backpacking is one that is just a canvas bag with a draw cord and flap at the
opening, and two shoulder straps. A tumpline would also be period correct, if
you wish to attach one. There is absolutely no need for one with my current set
up, which is under 20L, but if you end up getting a bigger pack, it may be a
good option.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-69263721074716279142016-01-07T08:02:00.001-05:002016-01-07T08:02:49.584-05:00Trip Report: Classic Backpacking 1/1/16 - 1/3/16<em>“The man who goes afoot, prepared to camp anywhere and in any weather, is
the most independent fellow on earth. He can follow his bent, obey the whim of
the hour, do what he pleases whenever he pleases, without deference to anybody,
or care for any beast of burden or obedience to the course of any current. He is
footloose and free. Where neither horse nor boat can go, he can go, seeing
country that no other kind of traveler ever sees.” </em>Horace Kephart, 1918<br />
<br />
What better way to celebrate the new year than with a three day camping trip. I
figured it was the perfect opportunity to try being in the woods using the
<a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2016/01/classic-backpacking-concept-and-theory.html" target="_blank">Classic Backpacking</a> equipment and techniques I have been trying to put together.<br />
<br />
The weather was ideal for the task. From the sources I’ve been reading, there
seems to be a consensus that a person in the woods, relying on a single 5lb
blanket and without relying on a fire all night long to keep warm, can do so
down to about 40F (4C) and with discomfort can go down to 32F (0C). For
temperatures below that, one would have to rely on a fire that can be kept
burning all night long, or would need different insulation like fur robes. Since
the temperature for the weekend was set to be fairly warm, at about 32F (0C)
during the day, and down to 20F (-7C) at night, I figured it would be a good
test for the gear and techniques I was about to use. Any colder than that, and I
would have had to bring out a larger axe and rely on a fire to make it through
the night; any warmer, and it wouldn’t be much of a test.<br />
<br />
I picked an area of the forest that I expected to have good resources, and set
out. When doing Classic Backpacking, it is much more important to select your
terrain carefully, as you are much more dependent on the resources that you can
find, so you must plan accordingly.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hTWcw5Xz5VXfM5z292YXYOQMlY7M4uvC3UAEuF2P-7G-8gyLMOSiML0EVSQnbSDTMco6TT68QLdApS6lqWLXfuCk175uf7hDndPtplW6QSPWo_q_2ww9cOLWn3WDOP-_Y_3BUe9xqAY/s1600/IMG_4772.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hTWcw5Xz5VXfM5z292YXYOQMlY7M4uvC3UAEuF2P-7G-8gyLMOSiML0EVSQnbSDTMco6TT68QLdApS6lqWLXfuCk175uf7hDndPtplW6QSPWo_q_2ww9cOLWn3WDOP-_Y_3BUe9xqAY/s640/IMG_4772.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I followed a river into the woods, or at least I tried to stay close to it. You
always hear the advice of following a river out when in a survival situation,
but the terrain along rivers is often some of the most difficult you will
encounter.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Along the way I tried to gather resources when I saw them. Some birch bark and
pine pitch make good fire starter. They also make a big mess when you try to
carry them.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLw3bbl1Ut6dW_Mq3rKnNsJAN-jrDjjkp94Rn0JQnI-u6UEe9qqPB17VzGRlThB-zml-ns2nhR0068q5XDUyig6fsS9BvT4OfTmtVPhpl-2x-5vPHa3d9mZGCKLTQg4eKXluGV8Y61FHs/s1600/IMG_4790.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLw3bbl1Ut6dW_Mq3rKnNsJAN-jrDjjkp94Rn0JQnI-u6UEe9qqPB17VzGRlThB-zml-ns2nhR0068q5XDUyig6fsS9BvT4OfTmtVPhpl-2x-5vPHa3d9mZGCKLTQg4eKXluGV8Y61FHs/s640/IMG_4790.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMFBJPZrc4tq6zz_KRPehqJ9scWcGOHB7QT40N1RfpFiCFk3G1es5FxBmzlFgXFG1kinyXDLnEIG9kWvFEPCiMMqlwkL8X46Pblv94jMv7M4VVXsFW3cXwkraeubo_z7tY6EMKXQk8-Lw/s1600/IMG_4841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMFBJPZrc4tq6zz_KRPehqJ9scWcGOHB7QT40N1RfpFiCFk3G1es5FxBmzlFgXFG1kinyXDLnEIG9kWvFEPCiMMqlwkL8X46Pblv94jMv7M4VVXsFW3cXwkraeubo_z7tY6EMKXQk8-Lw/s640/IMG_4841.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There are two very significant constraints on someone doing Classic Backpacking these days when compared to the people in the late 19th and early 20th century who did the same. One of
them is the willingness to drink untreated water. While I do not want to
discuss gear specifics in this post, most sources specify carrying only a single
canteen for water. That indicates two things. The first is that those travelers
were much more careful in sticking close to water sources. The second is that
they were willing to drink untreated water. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzN3DoW05gtjbsMTlm5B8tcT25qSiK4U84yiYN5igpIlM0Lc25mTOMKTosjUlcykd30P3gUm2JrgYAfEnbCAiMeAEyqUSf-ORZ05qsB3AYBbf9lIfEU_BVe4_9aW7mNKE_J9gzaGpva4M/s1600/IMG_4806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzN3DoW05gtjbsMTlm5B8tcT25qSiK4U84yiYN5igpIlM0Lc25mTOMKTosjUlcykd30P3gUm2JrgYAfEnbCAiMeAEyqUSf-ORZ05qsB3AYBbf9lIfEU_BVe4_9aW7mNKE_J9gzaGpva4M/s640/IMG_4806.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
When it comes to water, that presents a serious issue if one wants to do things
in an authentic way without getting sick. I would have to purify my water,
something I can’t do on the move. That means I had to wait until my canteen was
empty, fill it up with unpurified water, and then bring it to camp so I can boil
it. Here I was also lucky to have some snow around, which I could melt for water
once I got into camp.<br />
<br />
I walked as deep into the woods as time allowed. Ordinarily I would wait until
it was fairly late before stopping to set up camp, an act which takes me about
ten minutes. Since when doing Classic Backpacking I would have to set up a much
more complex camp, I stopped several hours earlier and got to work.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyO1-zoisyr95V7-VYK8gRVoDTbeT6d3sQEUbqWPa9K0Y1qwsqAMqZhbvuOErK2XyhC16LuTOvhl1Pjdgtn91Yb21Gz4UHoHaLWv-7XlXPVT9I1fOckb4wneIy8PJCX3OA5jkX2fOa5RQ/s1600/IMG_4857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyO1-zoisyr95V7-VYK8gRVoDTbeT6d3sQEUbqWPa9K0Y1qwsqAMqZhbvuOErK2XyhC16LuTOvhl1Pjdgtn91Yb21Gz4UHoHaLWv-7XlXPVT9I1fOckb4wneIy8PJCX3OA5jkX2fOa5RQ/s640/IMG_4857.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I brought only a small hatchet. I figured it would be sufficient for setting up
camp and gathering a small amount of firewood so that I could cook, and have
some left over in case I needed it during the night.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZFf5rK4R24SflluEOrnBl3am53w-kaM-8Coqmx-ITB_ZzV2n8d4GIG6mchK4iNkyVfpWa8-2BBUE72MbOBiBnKOVCBXFCwhEZYsHemVkBAKoVJ8MjeFhluMrDrfE05tfiFuYk84wKzs/s1600/IMG_4903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZFf5rK4R24SflluEOrnBl3am53w-kaM-8Coqmx-ITB_ZzV2n8d4GIG6mchK4iNkyVfpWa8-2BBUE72MbOBiBnKOVCBXFCwhEZYsHemVkBAKoVJ8MjeFhluMrDrfE05tfiFuYk84wKzs/s640/IMG_4903.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When setting up the bedding area, I encountered the other significant
disadvantage faced by someone doing Classic Backpacking when compared to people
in the past: the ability to collect natural resources. It is simply not
considered responsible these days to start felling trees in the way that it was
done in the late 19th and early 20th century. While Nessmuk describes bringing
down one tree six inches in diameter for fire wood and another for bedding and
shelter material, that is not a sustainable practice.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The result is that we have to be more careful in the way we use our firewood and
bedding materials. In this case, instead of me collecting a large number of pine
boughs, I collected just enough to create a soft top layer of bedding.
Underneath a constructed a stick bed, comprised of lined up sticks, covered by
finer willow branches. That way I can create sufficient dead air space and
separation from the ground without excessive use of living plant material. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ59Dj__n9E_DEVVtcNJ7PRFhIrNVk95K6IpW1mUc0kg-5jQkzPvSopkezy70ms4LuH7owMuC4zffCSKz-E5q9JqMPgOY40Xptaonyf2ivBV3cKU-0VF9fEDyP-mOQFpz47uwI9aNHZz8/s1600/IMG_4962.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ59Dj__n9E_DEVVtcNJ7PRFhIrNVk95K6IpW1mUc0kg-5jQkzPvSopkezy70ms4LuH7owMuC4zffCSKz-E5q9JqMPgOY40Xptaonyf2ivBV3cKU-0VF9fEDyP-mOQFpz47uwI9aNHZz8/s640/IMG_4962.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For insulation, in addition to my blanket, I brought a sweater, a scarf, a pair
of gloves, and an extra pair of socks. Unfortunately, I was tired and
distracted, and forgot to change my socks before going to bed, and wrapped
myself up in the blanket while wearing my damp socks. I woke up around 9 pm with
my feet freezing. I had to get up, put on my other socks, get the fire going
again, warm up, and then get back into bed. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
All went well until about 1 am when I woke up because I was cold. I had a little
bit of fire wood left, but starting the fire up again would have been a waste.
See, contrary to popular belief, cotton/canvas tarps are not flame resistant
unless they have been chemically treated. Mine hasn’t been because I didn’t want
to use modern chemicals, and the methods listed in the primary sources, using
sugar of lead (lead acetate) just didn’t seem like a good idea. The result is
that you can’t have the fire too close to the tarp. I had my fire set up about
three feet from my bedding, which was safe for the tarp, but would mean I would
have to get up and move closer in order to get any decent heat from my
small fire. It just wasn’t worth it. I spent the night waking up on and off due
to the cold. In the morning I used the remainder of my wood to warm up.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcohna6EpMy2CNv8rtPaDS_jTKQC-cxeeosLxh5GsvRQ1q2Z4eUyJPiGdn47dYvwi9ZKVweEIZYv5xMOiRjIGM8J90PaCDjgcnXFFGVfsWD9ixL91VBz0e2JmhVjxc5JC_bvkjWvJsxc/s1600/IMG_4990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcohna6EpMy2CNv8rtPaDS_jTKQC-cxeeosLxh5GsvRQ1q2Z4eUyJPiGdn47dYvwi9ZKVweEIZYv5xMOiRjIGM8J90PaCDjgcnXFFGVfsWD9ixL91VBz0e2JmhVjxc5JC_bvkjWvJsxc/s640/IMG_4990.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The first night under my belt, I packed up and got moving again. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaXaqNnm-LlaUZbti2MDgBzpfxsF0GCm66uDZWAXTES7f-JVgjgTPH-TFnFODTlGhSRWgfAO-UzuCXLYbvO6Dp8knFmG5KG02RX4rioATj3vRvPaVx2tz-GTDfkC5zlOjFmQosuZeb5r4/s1600/IMG_4784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaXaqNnm-LlaUZbti2MDgBzpfxsF0GCm66uDZWAXTES7f-JVgjgTPH-TFnFODTlGhSRWgfAO-UzuCXLYbvO6Dp8knFmG5KG02RX4rioATj3vRvPaVx2tz-GTDfkC5zlOjFmQosuZeb5r4/s640/IMG_4784.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For the second night I also stopped early. My plan for night number two was a
bit different. It seemed to me that the time I spent the previous day setting up
my tarp was time I could have used in better ways. There was no chance of rain,
so I didn’t really need the tarp. A tarp does virtually nothing when it comes to
reflecting heat from a fire, and an open set up like mine does little to trap
warm air. I figured my time would be better spent gathering more firewood and
then building the fire closer to my bedding.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
That's exactly what I did for night two, using my tarp as ground cover on top of
my bedding to keep moisture away. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXzIyzfeSqYdvg-VBWUZMzzkfMWdp3pZXGvjzS5fP8YYGh3kM0_bicsny6uFXCGRxm48we5C8RgCKoNqUFyO3XaSe5nvudXmYryxirhq6FPz7NTUkoAvGK6U11xjT5Xqoj_ldr22y6Zc/s1600/IMG_5050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXzIyzfeSqYdvg-VBWUZMzzkfMWdp3pZXGvjzS5fP8YYGh3kM0_bicsny6uFXCGRxm48we5C8RgCKoNqUFyO3XaSe5nvudXmYryxirhq6FPz7NTUkoAvGK6U11xjT5Xqoj_ldr22y6Zc/s640/IMG_5050.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I melted snow for water, cooked some basic food, and wrapped myself up for the
night.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsh_EIPtazrzxXeVGc-8MFKzMVXW96iBCZa6IIiu9VgQ4yTxCQjUQ2tMdKNlnyRhNa2blp1Wxw1Q-sPm6PaXr3MSItTuIVOhH2gSeoJOBU7CTOVG5F1vNqV2Jk2wSF8OyqTQgO2JSDwU/s1600/IMG_5062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsh_EIPtazrzxXeVGc-8MFKzMVXW96iBCZa6IIiu9VgQ4yTxCQjUQ2tMdKNlnyRhNa2blp1Wxw1Q-sPm6PaXr3MSItTuIVOhH2gSeoJOBU7CTOVG5F1vNqV2Jk2wSF8OyqTQgO2JSDwU/s640/IMG_5062.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I hope you appreciate the above picture. I only have a 30 second timer on my
camera. That right there is the Olympics of blanket wrapping.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I didn’t make the socks mistake again, but still woke up during the night from
the cold. Having the fire close by made it easy to restart and warm up on
several occasions, letting it die down in between. That way the wood lasted me
through the night. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Some of you are probably wondering why I didn’t build a long fire like you see
in retro-style pictures. The reason is that I find long fires to be incredibly
wasteful of firewood, a precious resource that requires time and energy to gather, and are
usually unnecessary. A smaller fire, close to you, at about torso level will
keep you plenty warm. I would only consider a long fire if I needed a very large
fire for some reason without making it very deep. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Anyway, the night wasn’t as bad as the first. I packed up, and headed out.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Considering that I was trying to push my gear and the corresponding skills, I
think the trip was a success. I was right a the boundaries of what my gear would
allow me to do. I would say that the estimates for a comfortable night with a
single 5lb blanket, assuming proper bedding, of about 40F (4C) sound right. I was
able to push it lower with a few tricks I have picked up over the years, but it
wasn’t comfortable. If the temperatures were any lower, I would need to bring
out a proper axe and depend on keeping a fire going all night long for warmth.
That’s not a fun way to spend the night, but the choices are limited. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
I’ll do some separate posts on gear. I tried to keep the items as authentic
as possible, but they weren’t in all respects. My boots were my regular
boots, my knife is not period correct, my water bottle has a threaded plastic
cap, etc. But, I’ll get into all that in later posts. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-30357490282189875342016-01-05T08:40:00.002-05:002016-01-21T08:20:16.655-05:00Classic Backpacking: Concept and TheoryFor several years now I have been writing and trying to practice a concept that
I have been referring to as <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-modern-woodsman-concepts-for.html" target="_blank">The Modern Woodsman</a>. At its base is the assertion
that woodsmanship did not end or peak at some point in the distant past, but
that it has continued to evolve and develop over the years and into the present
day, resulting in better equipment and more skills. To that end, I’m sure many
readers have noticed my preference for modern gear and theory.<br />
<br />
As a result, many readers of this blog don’t associate my writings with more
traditional forms of backpacking or camping. I do however, and always have had a
significant interest in historical trekking and traditional skills, in
particular the late 19th and early 20th century; the time of Nessmuk and
Kephart, Nansen and Mallory. I have done a fair amount of backpacking with more
traditional gear, as well as research on the topic. My reluctance to write on
the subject in anything other than a historical sense, has been due to the fact
that I haven’t been able to find a good context for it.<br />
<br />
My main interest is in the time period between the end of the American Civil
War, 1865, and before the wide scale introduction of petroleum based products
such as plastics and nylon, about the 1940s. In my opinion this is the
birthplace of what will eventually, at a later time, come to be called
backpacking. It is a time when traditional skills, which were primarily utilized
in commercial ventures like trapping, prospecting, logging, etc, which utilized
pack trains and canoes to achieve their goals, were combined with emerging
technological products of the Industrial Revolution and were transformed into a
set of skill and gear that would allow an individual to travel through the
wilderness under his own power, carrying his own gear, and do it all for no
reason other than recreation. In that respect, much of what we read by people
like Nessmuk, Kephart, Kreps, Holding, Miller, etc, is not the culmination of
wilderness knowledge, but rather the beginning of a whole new frontier in
wilderness exploration. Their struggles to come up with new skills and create
new gear is a reflection of that new beginning.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdB3DdbVsoCEiKgKs8srJKZIr4uhf6Xcp4raJ_xxFDN9KUUpRAhWNMnwAb1b0FujzrQcaMfqNn_Ja7NZW0Gluiw4XckIeIhqxaq7F7cYg1SQMEbCDmM7XyEReqQ1jdbxW3-VTGCA0gGXU/s1600/IMG_4965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdB3DdbVsoCEiKgKs8srJKZIr4uhf6Xcp4raJ_xxFDN9KUUpRAhWNMnwAb1b0FujzrQcaMfqNn_Ja7NZW0Gluiw4XckIeIhqxaq7F7cYg1SQMEbCDmM7XyEReqQ1jdbxW3-VTGCA0gGXU/s640/IMG_4965.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After spending a few years wondering about how to best approach the subject
without getting tangled up if the utter nonsense that permeates the internet
regarding traditional gear and skills, I decided to try doing it from the
context of historical trekking; an attempt at experimental archeology, which
I’ve decided to call Classic Backpacking as an homage to Steve Watts and Dave
Wescott’s concept of Classic Camping. Unlike Classic Camping, which focuses on,
well, camping, I want to focus on the man-portable approach to the wilderness in
that time period, which I am calling Classic Backpacking. While writers like
Kephart wrote at length about large tents, packing horses, canoes, setting up
permanent camps, camp kitchens, etc, they also wrote a significant amount on
traveling through the woods with minimal gear, carried in a backpack. It’s true,
that wasn’t the common experience of a person venturing into the wilderness at
the time, but for me, it is those parts of the writings that show the boundaries
of what was possible, and what woodsmanship of the time could truly provide.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em>Classic Backpacking is a practical study of the origins of wilderness
backpacking- between the years 1880 and 1930; reconstructing the experience of a
wilderness pack-hauling traveler of the period, through time spent in the
wilderness using period correct equipment and skills.</em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My goal here with the concept of Classic Backpacking is to do a bit of
experimental archaeology, and try to do backpacking in the style used by people
in the period roughly between 1880 and 1930, utilizing the equipment and skills
that existed at the time. I want to experience what those early woodsrunners
experienced and how the limitations of their gear related to the skills they
developed and the way they related to nature.<em> </em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxexgAD9ZHzSxp7gy4GQMgWRvDor305DywVl2cSveEiuZgdZbz6kbAE7GatQ5yPVltYCLimXTenp2_clS0-UGsEX1HUgk_XIQy_yGRWNApkfwGBkvPKzgXpt6Ky4BQf25pFYuIJ_G1kmw/s1600/IMG_4722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxexgAD9ZHzSxp7gy4GQMgWRvDor305DywVl2cSveEiuZgdZbz6kbAE7GatQ5yPVltYCLimXTenp2_clS0-UGsEX1HUgk_XIQy_yGRWNApkfwGBkvPKzgXpt6Ky4BQf25pFYuIJ_G1kmw/s640/IMG_4722.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<em><br /></em></div>
Since I want to experience and better understand those struggles, when doing
Classic Backpacking trips I want to strive to keep the gear and skills as
authentic as possible. Of course, I will have to make compromises for different
reasons, not the least of which is money, but I want to keep the experience as
authentic as possible without being hyper precise. By that I mean, I don’t want
to use any gear that is designed to look “old-timey” while using modern designs:
no canvas backpacks with hip-belts; no canvas tarps made waterproof and flame
resistant with the use of modern chemicals; no ferro rods, no cooking pots with
nesting stoves, etc. I also want to make every effort to avoid using modern
skills and knowledge and applying them to the past. For example, I can certainly
take the materials available in the late 19th century, and construct a pretty
decent equivalent of a modern sleeping bag. That however, wouldn’t give me an
authentic experience. I want to do it in the “traditional” way. I want to do it
with the skills an equipment actually in use during that time.<br />
<br />
In doing this, I am relying on several sources for my information on how things
were done during that period. Here is the list of publications that I have read
so far and on which I am basing my opinions:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Scrambles Amongst the Alps by Edward Whymper, 1872
</li>
<li>How to Camp Out by John M. Gould, 1877
</li>
<li>Travels in Alaska by John Muir, 1879
</li>
<li>The First Crossing of Greenland by Fridtjof Nansen, 1890
</li>
<li>Woodcraft, George Washington Sears, 1892
</li>
<li>Farthest North Vol I and Vol II by Fridtjof Nansen, 1897
</li>
<li>Abercrombie & Fitch Catalog, 1907</li>
<li>The Camper’s Handbook by Thomas Hiram Holding, 1908
</li>
<li>Camp and Trail Methods by Elmer Harry Kreps, 1910</li>
<li>Camp and Trail by Stewart Edward White, 1911
</li>
<li>Camp Craft by Warren Hastings Miller, 1915
</li>
<li>Touring Afoot by Claude P. Fordyce, 1916
</li>
<li>Camping and Woodcraft Vol I and Vol II by Horace Kephart, 1918 (2nd edition, 1920)</li>
<li>Woodcraft by Elmer Harry Kreps, 1919</li>
<li>The Book of Camp-Lore and Woodcraft by Dan Beard, 1920
</li>
<li>On Your Own in the Wilderness by Col Townsend Whelen and Bradford Angier,
1958
</li>
<li>Blizzard by Jasper Rees, 2006 (1911/1912 Amundsen/Scott Expedition)
</li>
<li>Mallory Myths and Mysteries: The Mallory Clothing Replica Project by Mike
Parsons and Mary Rose, 2009 (1924 Malory/Ervine Expedition)
</li>
<li>Benchmarking Functionality of Historical Cold Weather Clothing: Robert F.
Scott, Roald Amundsen, George Mallory by George Havenith 2010 (1911/1912
Amundsen/Scott Expedition and 1924 Malory/Ervine Expedition)</li>
</ul>
<div>
Not all of the books are as valuable with respect to Classic Backpacking, but
they have all given me a glimpse into the techniques and technology available at
the time. You will notice that not all of the books fit within that time period.
Some of the later books are studies of the period in question, while others like
the work of Col Townsend Whelen are used to put things in the wider context of
backpacking. I’ve also decided to expand the usual selection of source materials
to include a number of European explorers, who I think have much to contribute
to the subject.<br />
<br />
And a few more words on gear to clarify the above points: Ideally, when I am doing Classic Backpacking, I would
like to exactly duplicate the experience of someone traveling on foot between
1880 and 1930. To that end, it ideally I would be using either vintage gear from
the period, or exact replicas. Of course, I am not going to do that, nor do I
expect that anyone else would. To obtain such precise gear would not only be
extremely time consuming, but would also be very expensive. We would also face
the problem of deciding exactly which period correct gear to use. Do we use gear
available to the average woodsman of the time, or do we use cutting edge gear
like that used on expeditions for national pride like those of Amundsen and
Mallory. Certainly the technology used by Mallory was not in any way available
to the average trapper of the time.<br />
<br />
So, all that being said, my goal is to stick to gear that is functionally
equivalent to what was being used at the time. I want to use materials that
would approximate the performance, weight, and size of the gear that was
available at the time. Sometimes that can be done exactly, sometimes, not. My
focus is not to look the part and play dress-up, but rather to do what those
people used to do.<br />
<br />
As I have mentioned above, I want to at all costs avoid gear that has been made
to look like period correct gear, but offers modern performance. For example, I
can take a thin cotton tarp, put a silicone treatment on it, and I will have a
close equivalent of a plastic tarp that looks like a canvas tarp. That is not
what I want. Or, I can buy a canvas tarp with a Sunforger treatment which will
make it waterproof without adding any weight to the tarp, but that wouldn’t
match the reality of waterproofing a tarp in the late 19th century, where more
than likely the waterproofing process nearly doubled the weight of your tarp.
Similarly, I can buy a Duluth pack that is made of canvas and leather, but is in
other respects more similar to a modern pack, complete with a hip-belt. It looks
the part, but in terms of functionality, is far removed from the time period in
question. <br />
<br />
I would much rather use gear that uses materials that are not exactly period
correct, but offers the same performance available at the time, than to use gear
that looks period correct, but offers modern performance. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Lastly, please keep in mind that when I write about any of this, it is not
meant to be taken as definitive in any way. I am not a historian. What I write
is based only on my personal research into the subject, which I do as a hobby.
Also considering that for me this is a hobby within a hobby, I want to do the
best I can with very limited funds. I imagine other people interested in the
subject have similar financial constraints, so I’ll try to use affordable and
easily obtainable gear, which unfortunately will contain some less than accurate
features. Certainly one could spend thousands of dollars and recreate every
piece of gear down to the last stitch and button, but I doubt many of us could
do that. So, please keep in mind that I base all of this on the research I have
been able to do in my limited free time, and with a very small budget. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I hope you guys enjoy reading about my journey, and feel free to use the concept if it appeals to you. The more of us there are doing the same thing out there, the more actual information we can gather. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-6880421853272257672016-01-03T18:48:00.004-05:002016-01-03T18:50:26.510-05:00Dual Survival Returns For Season 7 With New HostsThat’s right folks, Dual Survival is coming back for another season. It was very
surprising when The Discovery Channel canceled the show after the alleged issues
with co-host Joe Teti (have a look <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2015/07/dual-survival-canceled-by-discovery.html">here</a>),
considering the high ratings of the show. Seems like someone at Discovery had
the same thought, so the show will be back for Season 7.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinWFRYjdXjb1nt1BhXV1C-84e3aUl2gRhz1WlXOQx4Ax0vEKOxxH5OM4UZeSMe-wTPfcoo7M8uOAQC0PQ-rSDI8cW0zY5DikTu4OBlZ_WobBuPt063x5reF2eVlWGDYUxWWx2gt1D_UVI/s1600/34508_ep521_028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="433" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinWFRYjdXjb1nt1BhXV1C-84e3aUl2gRhz1WlXOQx4Ax0vEKOxxH5OM4UZeSMe-wTPfcoo7M8uOAQC0PQ-rSDI8cW0zY5DikTu4OBlZ_WobBuPt063x5reF2eVlWGDYUxWWx2gt1D_UVI/s640/34508_ep521_028.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Shaking things up however, not only is Joe Teti gone, but so is Matt Graham.
This season will feature two
brand new hosts, former U.S. Army Green Beret Grady Powell, and primitive
skills instructor Bill McConnell. See what The Discovery Channel has to say about them <a href="http://www.discovery.com/tv-shows/dual-survival/" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX8n-lgEnr9wx-9LQEUxwyIWkSLghylGf9-AGQc_Qwqm1lFOT2jq-LpdLiSLmlRy8fjjf-3K6SD6I0pta7xjYeDdMsftQ9YFEn3J_NSfdDotUfORMTqYLS02DaUwNzSbZ3dxVxeturA-c/s1600/dual-survival-grady-bio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX8n-lgEnr9wx-9LQEUxwyIWkSLghylGf9-AGQc_Qwqm1lFOT2jq-LpdLiSLmlRy8fjjf-3K6SD6I0pta7xjYeDdMsftQ9YFEn3J_NSfdDotUfORMTqYLS02DaUwNzSbZ3dxVxeturA-c/s640/dual-survival-grady-bio.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
I’ve seen Grady Powell before on another reality show, National Geographic’s
Ultimate Survival Alaska, where he was a member of the military team. He didn’t
seem like a wilderness expert on that show, but then again, it doesn’t seem like
qualifications are needed to be on a Discovery Channel show.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KG60TlRwW1OSKMVfvIzIC03NebZBCCtNF7r0tfi6HjmWOsOZYvYRHiYvkgFS8g-n4GqsZ-WrzxPSAedLRriJTUXiVsAxoYxiOh4Dzq0ARjOpK6q9T-rgDzY3pdGkpK6KB6FbGTPND84/s1600/dual-survival-bill-bio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KG60TlRwW1OSKMVfvIzIC03NebZBCCtNF7r0tfi6HjmWOsOZYvYRHiYvkgFS8g-n4GqsZ-WrzxPSAedLRriJTUXiVsAxoYxiOh4Dzq0ARjOpK6q9T-rgDzY3pdGkpK6KB6FbGTPND84/s640/dual-survival-bill-bio.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
<br />
I know nothing about Bill McConnell. He apparently runs the PAST Skills
Wilderness School in Montana. I guess they decided to start with a clean slate
this season, but I wish they had kept Matt. It’s hard to see why anyone wouldn’t
like him; then again, maybe that’s exactly why he wasn’t a good fit for the
show.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
Dual Survival season 7 will premier on The Discovery Channel on January 13,
2016 at 9:00 pm. I expect a fresh new dose of drama. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-64734954728639034482015-12-30T13:37:00.000-05:002015-12-30T13:37:02.624-05:00How to Camp Out, by John M. GouldThese past few months I have been doing a bit of reading on 19th century
camping, and I came across the above book. It was first published in 1877, and
contains one of the earliest discussions I have been able to find of
recreational backpacking. Of course, the term “backpacking” did not exist at the
time, so the practice if referred to as “traveling afoot”. Most of the book
focuses on camping with the use of wagons or other transport, but I found the
few sections on early backpacking very interesting.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6DNkyEfpA47GX-E6eS0Cj1Tx1ePJ8VBQ9idAFqgDui2skyRkzz6gaW2TrolUQj_sfvSGFMDaz7zGPKCMTitLZy7ZbiC_qEaCEsNQRuQFXfCXfoAI5ZXxMLFYB1Lqw_o9MrnGBXxaXODE/s1600/51GnnCCnb4L._SX330_BO1%252C204%252C203%252C200_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6DNkyEfpA47GX-E6eS0Cj1Tx1ePJ8VBQ9idAFqgDui2skyRkzz6gaW2TrolUQj_sfvSGFMDaz7zGPKCMTitLZy7ZbiC_qEaCEsNQRuQFXfCXfoAI5ZXxMLFYB1Lqw_o9MrnGBXxaXODE/s640/51GnnCCnb4L._SX330_BO1%252C204%252C203%252C200_.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The author, John M. Gould, draws his references and experience from the civil
war, and much is based on the experience of a soldier of the march, modified for
a recreational purpose. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
The book is in the public domain and can be viewed for free <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/17575" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-80499982731071205242015-12-22T08:39:00.000-05:002015-12-30T13:37:58.037-05:00Trip Report: Beaver Pond Duck Hunting 12/19/15 - 12/20/15I didn’t really have any particular trip in mind for this month’s trip report,
so this past weekend I figured I would take advantage of one of the last duck
hunting weekends to get out and give it a try.<br />
<br />
I am definitely not a duck hunter. I just don’t have easy access to the areas
where hunting would be much use. If you want a high chance of success when duck
or goose hunting, you need either large bodies of water, or open farm fields.
That’s where ducks and geese like to land, so you set up decoys, hide in a
blind, and try to call in the flocks. Unfortunately I don’t have access to
either such terrain. Since I hunt public land, I have no access to farm land,
and most decent size bodies of water are too easy to access, and as a result not
ideal for the trips I want to do. What I am left with are small ponds in the
middle of the woods. I have indeed been lucky in the past and have seen a
handful of ducks in some such small ponds, but hunting those areas is really not
a productive way to do it. You have to spend the day backpacking to a small
beaver pond in the hope that there are two or three ducks there. Sometimes there
are, most times there are not. If you are lucky, you then have to stalk the
ducks until you are within range, and take the shot. It works, it’s just not a
productive way to do it.<br />
<br />
Productive or not, my main goal when hunting is to get out into the woods, so
this type of hunting is just fine with me. I had a few ponds in mind, and I set
out before sunrise.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_kjWBwiZAfdVW8-5cS7f7iSRBu9lmUdRgX30G8Y3REQH_iBpPmxmhCS5UEr5Ak44SZm6PrSkETr0z9AbC46LJDm2DMOeGgWoXPknCqK5rdGYxbfDz1h_5KjLQDUfYNtCqvuTw34xoeuQ/s1600/IMG_4415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_kjWBwiZAfdVW8-5cS7f7iSRBu9lmUdRgX30G8Y3REQH_iBpPmxmhCS5UEr5Ak44SZm6PrSkETr0z9AbC46LJDm2DMOeGgWoXPknCqK5rdGYxbfDz1h_5KjLQDUfYNtCqvuTw34xoeuQ/s640/IMG_4415.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The first pond, which I had only seen on maps, was relatively close to my
starting point, and I reached it within an hour, just as the sun was coming up.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY-epFRraSdo4EvsI08vOWWgDdiCWo6dS7E5oqOQtNOUUKiJiKgxAwj7xs255cTGUpAcxhyxmi1Kyi2YgmH5hu_sHvH2cBUNkPdgUo9gR9e1WvPAd1ufpSYgkXC1PVvigvL0MYTEIxFL4/s1600/IMG_4541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY-epFRraSdo4EvsI08vOWWgDdiCWo6dS7E5oqOQtNOUUKiJiKgxAwj7xs255cTGUpAcxhyxmi1Kyi2YgmH5hu_sHvH2cBUNkPdgUo9gR9e1WvPAd1ufpSYgkXC1PVvigvL0MYTEIxFL4/s640/IMG_4541.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The good thing about small ponds like this one is that you have vegetation
right up to the water. That makes it easier to approach the edges without being
spotted. It also allows for easy concealment without needing a blind.
Unfortunately, there were no ducks. It’s just the luck of the draw. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
I found a spot near the water, and waited for a few hours in the hopes that
when feeding started, some ducks might decide to come to this pond.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLLq45vM3iSfEe3vMbBkMdCDWlgxS7XQG4ROWvQTf93uVmB1WYNQNlixblE02HYq7LBvENh4vjCRWCQb59Zsxi_rmcSUuyz8h_4vAmHbUtztsLSzWH1WeT362gCAQ8sdArfW5KwCrHeHw/s1600/IMG_4439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLLq45vM3iSfEe3vMbBkMdCDWlgxS7XQG4ROWvQTf93uVmB1WYNQNlixblE02HYq7LBvENh4vjCRWCQb59Zsxi_rmcSUuyz8h_4vAmHbUtztsLSzWH1WeT362gCAQ8sdArfW5KwCrHeHw/s640/IMG_4439.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had brought a duck call with me, so I called a few times. There wasn’t much
reason for it as the only thing flying overhead were crows.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiGV9Kv8kp627EvYITkAAx7-3jkVi1JbY38vCEJWhzygAPTuTjcDI2MZ5nmQHeBzVb95uOsfKPXVHOZ8WtGUOXNZQvwQeQKsizfdzIsOg3lqg4KiBAPp0d95aqlJNI3nFLwMIQ-6q1nZY/s1600/IMG_4482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiGV9Kv8kp627EvYITkAAx7-3jkVi1JbY38vCEJWhzygAPTuTjcDI2MZ5nmQHeBzVb95uOsfKPXVHOZ8WtGUOXNZQvwQeQKsizfdzIsOg3lqg4KiBAPp0d95aqlJNI3nFLwMIQ-6q1nZY/s640/IMG_4482.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I soon got bored, and decided to move on to another pond that I had seen on a
previous trip. I had actually seen a pair of ducks in it several months ago, so
I definitely wanted to take a look. I got to the area about mid afternoon. I was
noticeably up in elevation, so some of the snow we had earlier in the week was
still on the ground.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqswA18gPq2rkw9btwWXUlfN0A9TDQSRBBJKhXRmQ5e9HZSHUi6JyAikIan5HZg7Ood06N4V0Mq9RNus5eHDQjA0t-Pnk7Mg-SHygMaT4pTsquJG55QlJCTPiWnOhHhlTIDxbgjBK_AQ4/s1600/IMG_4545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqswA18gPq2rkw9btwWXUlfN0A9TDQSRBBJKhXRmQ5e9HZSHUi6JyAikIan5HZg7Ood06N4V0Mq9RNus5eHDQjA0t-Pnk7Mg-SHygMaT4pTsquJG55QlJCTPiWnOhHhlTIDxbgjBK_AQ4/s640/IMG_4545.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Again, no luck. I approached the area carefully, but there were no ducks. I
waited for a bit, but it was starting to get late in the day, so I decided to
just set up camp.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP9yEqA05GFfddVFz0zeKChukLl8qQDxtF5yfFmEv7nSjl9EMlXpB7o3755vfddCSZ6K_v8iV87XCtt1YgPLROBTm7ZKhIk26msjrmQgr1I3eSd2IJN-3GY59HG6_ex61snJG_JL8nE6c/s1600/IMG_4548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP9yEqA05GFfddVFz0zeKChukLl8qQDxtF5yfFmEv7nSjl9EMlXpB7o3755vfddCSZ6K_v8iV87XCtt1YgPLROBTm7ZKhIk26msjrmQgr1I3eSd2IJN-3GY59HG6_ex61snJG_JL8nE6c/s640/IMG_4548.JPG" width="580" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I used a white gas stove for this trip. There was no specific need for it,
the lowest the temperature got was 22F (-6C), but what happened is that I ran
out of gas for my canister stove and I haven’t had time to go buy more…so, I
used what I had around. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
The next day on my way out I passed both ponds again, but still no ducks. As
I was driving out of the forest, I spotted a flock of geese in a larger lake
right off the road. Of course there was a large sign, saying “no hunting”. It’s
just how it is.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-92190563352767594652015-12-14T08:14:00.000-05:002015-12-30T13:37:24.864-05:00Venison Jerky Recipe After shooting a good size deer this season, I still have a large supply of venison in my freezer. I’ve been thinking of ways to use it. This weekend I had the idea of making some venison jerky. I was very happy with the result, so I wanted to share the recipe with you. I’m sure there are better ways to do it, but this approach worked out well for me, and I was able to do it with ingredients I had in the house.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij40E2xFXwWC1MVqq9YnmhvT9IX-A7FWZ60u_s3vF17-KUyWnNMUxMQis7wKK8X4mg5hzXXG532va6nCNRZ5WglKWMxJPjnMZ0c3nRiNjhkzRJtDUaYlwICYkoyA8NjQ150gV2gxDVJ60/s1600/IMG_4396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij40E2xFXwWC1MVqq9YnmhvT9IX-A7FWZ60u_s3vF17-KUyWnNMUxMQis7wKK8X4mg5hzXXG532va6nCNRZ5WglKWMxJPjnMZ0c3nRiNjhkzRJtDUaYlwICYkoyA8NjQ150gV2gxDVJ60/s640/IMG_4396.JPG" width="580" /></a><br />
<br />
The usual way to make jerky, and the way I have done it in the past, is to
use a food dehydrator. Unfortunately, I threw mine out when I was moving, so for
this recipe I had to use the oven.<br />
Ingredients list for 1lb of venison:<br />
<ul>
<li>4 tablespoons of soy souse </li>
<li>4 tablespoons of Worcestershire souse</li>
<li>1 tablespoon of ketchup</li>
<li>1/4 tablespoon of garlic powder</li>
<li>1/4 tablespoon of onion powder</li>
<li>1/4 tablespoon of crushed black pepper</li>
<li>1/2 tablespoon of salt </li>
</ul>
I like to go heavy on the spices, but if you don’t adjust accordingly. <br />
<br />
The first step in making the jerky is to remove all of the fat and connective
tissue from the meat. For me this was the most time consuming part as I am not a
good butcher. It is however an extremely important part to do right because
otherwise the dehydration will not work well – fat does not dehydrate. <br />
<br />
Once the meat is cleaned up, slice it into 1/8 inch thick pieces. This is of
course easier said than done, especially when you are working with less than
ideal cuts. I like to start with the top of the piece of meat, and then keep
cutting around like unrolling a roll of toilet paper. That should give you a
good size thin piece of meat that you can then cut into strips. If you end up
with any thick sections, use the back of the knife to flatten them out. <br />
<br />
When the meat is prepared, put it in a large Ziploc bag or a container
together with the above ingredients. Make sure to mix well. Leave the meat to
marinate in the mixture overnight. <br />
<br />
The next day remove the meat from the marinate, drain any liquid that is till
on the meat, and place the strips on a baking sheet. Do not overlap any of the
pieces. Ideally you would be able to use a rack of some sort for this step, but
a baking sheet or pan will work fine as long as you don’t have any liquid
(marinate) dripping form the meat or fat that has been left over. At this stage
I also added some extra salt to the surface of the meat. Only do that if you
like your jerky salty. <br />
<br />
Preheat the oven to 170F (77C) and put the soon to be jerky inside. Keep it
in the oven for about seven hours. It’s a process that will take a good part of
your day. The jerky should be ready within six to eight hours. Since you are
not using a rack, for the last hour you may want to flit the pieces of meat
around so that both sides dry completely. <br />
<br />
And then you should end up with some nice jerky. This past weekend I did
about two and a half pound of venison, which from the looks of it is not going
to last us very long.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-18763236183735627742015-12-10T11:51:00.001-05:002015-12-10T11:51:14.786-05:00Video Series Highlight: Ask Paul Kirtley<p>For quite some time now I have been following the writings of Paul Kirtley, for whom I have great respect as a person and as a woodsman. </p> <p>For those of you who are not familiar with him, Paul is a UK based bushcraft instructor who runs Frontier Bushcraft. Prior to starting Frontier Bushcraft, Paul was an instructor for Ray Mears and has collaborated with several well known educators in the field. His school has received a number of awards.</p> <p>In this post I wanted to highlight a series of videos that he is doing called “Ask Paul Kirtley”.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mc-HugbNqqo/Vmmtfj6ujFI/AAAAAAAAQP8/JZ91oyLZ0-0/s1600-h/askpaulkirtley_episode_16_7003.jpg"><img title="askpaulkirtley_episode_16_700" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="askpaulkirtley_episode_16_700" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-29505xsZIIs/VmmtgQrVVZI/AAAAAAAAQQE/orjbYhRpBL0/askpaulkirtley_episode_16_700_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="330"></a> </p> <p></p> <p>You can see a complete list of episodes <a href="http://paulkirtley.co.uk/Topics/askpaulkirtley/" target="_blank">here</a>, or you can follow them on Paul’s blog <a href="http://paulkirtley.co.uk/" target="_blank">here</a>. </p> <p>The series is simply based on Paul answering questions that he has received from viewers. The episodes run almost an hour in length, and answer the questions fairly directly and without fluff. </p> <p>As you guys have probably noticed, I rarely do any endorsements for instructors or schools. In fact, you have probably seen me be critical of most such media personas. There are two reasons why I decided to do this post.</p> <p>The first reason is that I appreciate it when people take time to put out valuable information without a financial aim in mind. I appreciate that Paul takes time away from teaching classes at his school in order to answer questions people may have without advertising products or trying to drum up attendance at his school. </p> <p>The second reason is that recently Paul was accused of being the equivalent of an armchair bushcrafter because he released a video that he shot in his office. This of course is a phenomenon familiar to anyone who runs a blog or a YouTube channel; drive-by insults from anonymous individuals is just part of the reality. I bring this up not because anyone is taking those comments seriously, but because I want to give you my opinion on the matter. </p> <p>It is my opinion that Paul Kirtley is one of very few instructors who I don’t consider armchair woodsmen. In that I include not only online personas, but actual instructors as well. Sadly, most instructors, even the ones who intensively practice wilderness skills, have very limited knowledge of what it is like to be in the wilderness. The reason is that all of their skills are learned, practiced, and taught within ear shot of the house or car. They lack the necessary experience of actually being in the wilderness to put those skills in context. For anyone who has spent any time in the woods, it quickly becomes very obvious who those people are based on the skills they prioritize, and the gear they carry. Paul is one of the few people who actually spends time being in, and traveling through the wilderness, not just in the UK, but across the world. For that reason, while I do not always agree with him, I respect what he ha to say. </p> <p>So, all that being said, I hope Paul keeps up the series, I hope you guys check it out, and maybe even ask him a few questions. </p> <p><em>Wood Trekker does not have any affiliation with Paul Kirtley or Frontier Bushcraft, and I reserve the right to be critical of either as the need dictates. ;)</em></p> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-26084957932747572462015-12-03T07:47:00.001-05:002015-12-03T07:47:05.412-05:00The First Solo Unsupported Crossing Of Death Valley<p>This post is a bit delayed, as the crossing occurred early in November 2015, but I wanted to put some focus on the expedition. Because of my location, I often focus on cold weather achievements, and sometimes overlook expeditions in more arid climates. Well, it’s hard to get more arid than Death Valley. </p> <p>Between October 30, 2015 and November 7, 2015, Belgian adventurer Louis-Philippe Loncke completed the first solo unsupported crossing of Death Valley. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VYiFdfVx0XM/VmA5s6nDsHI/AAAAAAAAQOw/_fLqFXwv0fc/s1600-h/1G7uHpQXFbSjFBdjOwB7vNZDLjTSjPtRepIc.jpg"><img title="1G7uHpQXFbSjFBdjOwB-7vNZDLjTSjPtRepIcV1U8ec" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="1G7uHpQXFbSjFBdjOwB-7vNZDLjTSjPtRepIcV1U8ec" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FtkoXvHG4dQ/VmA5tiyvuSI/AAAAAAAAQO4/0qyZdqKBulU/1G7uHpQXFbSjFBdjOwB7vNZDLjTSjPtRepIc%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="676"></a> </p> <p>Loncke covered 150 miles in eight days, exceeding the six days he had planned for the crossing. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M3h8aVr38s0/VmA5uJK-dzI/AAAAAAAAQO8/yxPHk2xqZAM/s1600-h/_W117RJAlXPK5gYvNh180TP1DoMe3wAubsYL.jpg"><img title="_W117RJAlXPK5gYvNh180TP1DoMe3wAubsYLU7yEPa0,1jCCkHmhA10RueXJhnPo7Q9qqk7HSmDholWuvkJa9Hk" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="_W117RJAlXPK5gYvNh180TP1DoMe3wAubsYLU7yEPa0,1jCCkHmhA10RueXJhnPo7Q9qqk7HSmDholWuvkJa9Hk" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qvvt6HfFDfc/VmA5unjLK3I/AAAAAAAAQPE/qE8b7ky2qtc/_W117RJAlXPK5gYvNh180TP1DoMe3wAubsYL%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="391"></a> </p> <p>Unlike previous attempts, Loncke decided to forego pulling a sled, and instead used only a backpack to carry his supplies. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-692OfKMFe1U/VmA5vXEagAI/AAAAAAAAQPQ/3ue2i7wNSj0/s1600-h/SblwkfeYuEyela_0V2NysEPTQN8NWQd13_Te%25255B1%25255D.jpg"><img title="SblwkfeYuEyela_0V2NysEP-T-QN8NWQd13_-Teb2GA,z2AdmSWS2lEs1K1cip9kv79zKVdaF-vdCSjSbM3t36o" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="SblwkfeYuEyela_0V2NysEP-T-QN8NWQd13_-Teb2GA,z2AdmSWS2lEs1K1cip9kv79zKVdaF-vdCSjSbM3t36o" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yGQ6iq99hYs/VmA5v6G0tBI/AAAAAAAAQPU/DdRFFpPOW0Y/SblwkfeYuEyela_0V2NysEPTQN8NWQd13_Te.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="391"></a> </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8euVJdkYCAo/VmA5wic0SzI/AAAAAAAAQPg/N6nGwwrOKd4/s1600-h/kHughR4t22LFvNKQRT4ZAfxGCCmKdORoMZFX.jpg"><img title="kHughR4t22LFvNKQRT4ZAfxGCCmKdORoMZFXJXeoZtI" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="kHughR4t22LFvNKQRT4ZAfxGCCmKdORoMZFXJXeoZtI" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V_lMBnlA_M4/VmA5xfESGVI/AAAAAAAAQPo/KZEwALAgzew/kHughR4t22LFvNKQRT4ZAfxGCCmKdORoMZFX%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="495"></a> </p> <p>The expedition was by no means uneventful. A water bladder leak, and an improper salt balance in the water threatened to end the attempt midway, but some ingenuity and luck allowed Loncke to overcome the problem. </p> <p>You can see the trip journal and more photographs on Louis-Philippe Loncke’s website <a href="http://www.louis-philippe-loncke.com/" target="_blank">here</a>. </p> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-71223319835733921352015-11-30T08:15:00.001-05:002015-11-30T08:15:16.081-05:00Solo Stove Lite Kit Review<p>Last month I was contacted by the manufacturer of a portable wood burning stove called the <a href="http://www.solostove.com/" target="_blank">Solo Stove</a>. They provided me with a stove and pot set free of charge, and I agreed to review it. The stove was their most portable model, the <a href="http://www.solostove.com/solo-stove-lite/" target="_blank">Solo Stove Lite</a>, and the pot was a <a href="http://www.solostove.com/solo-stove-pot-900-1/" target="_blank">Solo Stove 900</a> pot designed for the stove, so that the stove can fully nest in the pot. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-se2zppiEAP4/VlxLtzjKq4I/AAAAAAAAQMg/TuepcVF3HKo/s1600-h/IMG_39573.jpg"><img title="IMG_3957" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_3957" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IUG6gZYQMlU/VlxLvIMKknI/AAAAAAAAQMo/zyswPkr_X2s/IMG_3957_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="308"></a> </p> <p>First, let’s get the obvious out of the way: this is a <a href="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/11/bushbuddy-ultra-review.html" target="_blank">Bushbuddy</a> clone. There is no way around that. You are either okay with it, or you are not. That being said, there are some differences to keep in mind. Mainly, the Solo Stove is much more robust. It is made of thicker steel, and the construction is very professional and polished. I never had any fear of crushing the stove, nor did you have any visible weld marks. The construction is something I would expect from a larger manufacturer like MSR. The downside is that it weighs 9 oz, significantly more than the 5 oz Bushbuddy Ultra. On the upside, the cost is correspondingly less, at about $70.00. </p> <p>The stove measures 4.25 inches in diameter, and 3.8 inches in height (5.7 inches when expanded). It fits perfectly in the provided Solo Pot 900, a 900ml stainless steel pot, both of which come in a good quality stuff sack. The pot weighs 7.8 oz and is 4.7 inches in diameter and 4.5 inches high, and costs about $35.00. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oX--nY6gOqo/VlxLv3Nu9TI/AAAAAAAAQMw/ITwP7Z_vFE0/s1600-h/IMG_39667.jpg"><img title="IMG_3966" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_3966" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CT1vrgs5aCQ/VlxLwyQ529I/AAAAAAAAQM4/-n6fAqA029k/IMG_3966_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="308"></a> </p> <p></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2HPdQIdn0T0/VlxLxpT5dzI/AAAAAAAAQNA/x3PLn1TPXJc/s1600-h/IMG_39773.jpg"><img title="IMG_3977" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_3977" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_10bKGikgXc/VlxLyQZE9rI/AAAAAAAAQNI/C1VY5yDYb6k/IMG_3977_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="311"></a> </p> <p>The pot stand portion of the stove flips over and nests within the stove in order to save space. You pull it out and place it upright when you need to use the stove. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XMI_Mg2AL6k/VlxLzIpsSsI/AAAAAAAAQNQ/Uyjib4xnYDE/s1600-h/IMG_39543.jpg"><img title="IMG_3954" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_3954" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EL2QHnzWqT8/VlxLz3d4DbI/AAAAAAAAQNY/csqb0ZDiBMo/IMG_3954_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="321"></a> </p> <p>The theory behind it is that once you start a fire in the stove, and heat builds up, the additional wood you place in it will not only burn, but gasify. The heat will release combustible gases from the wood, which will then mix with a secondary amount of oxygen and ignite. This should produce a much cleaner and more complete burn. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YINutdrcmKs/VlxL0jjDHTI/AAAAAAAAQNg/vtonPl4NOH4/s1600-h/IMG_40623.jpg"><img title="IMG_4062" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_4062" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XbvwEpayQmU/VlxL1FOyZkI/AAAAAAAAQNo/fLx07QnX5R8/IMG_4062_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="294"></a> </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y8i9uv24JP8/VlxL1-KvJ7I/AAAAAAAAQNw/KIuag6aqq28/s1600-h/IMG_40763.jpg"><img title="IMG_4076" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_4076" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PUAOE6VwU_Y/VlxL2aSS8RI/AAAAAAAAQN4/nDXE5x8sRdo/IMG_4076_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="282"></a> </p> <p>Even though the combustion is supposed to be cleaner and more complete, it still produces sooth and residue. The wood is burnt fairly completely, leaving mostly ash. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Es7kCej8tqg/VlxL2-7THRI/AAAAAAAAQOA/sRKtmWDXKEc/s1600-h/IMG_41103.jpg"><img title="IMG_4110" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_4110" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QO8IY4MvxdU/VlxL3VdcLFI/AAAAAAAAQOI/-TWCGQDhaks/IMG_4110_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="287"></a> </p> <p>So, this is the stove at a glance. These are the specifications, and the theory behind it. Now, let’s get into the actual discussion of how well it performs as a stove. </p> <p>Let me start by saying, that the stove works very well for its intended purpose. Once lit, it gasifies beautifully, and you can bring water to a boil with a very small amount of wood. The kit is very portable and easy to set up. The stove is well insulated from the ground, so it leaves no marks when used. </p> <p>There are however two significant downsides to the stove, not because of the manufacturer or even the specific design, but just by virtue of being a small wood burning stove.</p> <p>The first downside is that as a non-vented wood burning stove, you can not use it in a tent. For me this is a significant disadvantage to a stove. In bad weather I have to be able to use it inside a tent. For example, when I was testing the stove last week, I found myself in a very exposed and windswept location, where most stoves would have struggled to boil water. If I had a canister, alcohol, or even a while gas stove, I would have used it within my tent, eliminating the problem. With this stove I couldn’t. All stoves pose a danger when used inside a tent, but even with the cleaner burning gasification wood stove, you will be smoked out of your tent in no time. </p> <p>The second downside is that for all practical purposes, you are carrying 9 oz of gear in order to make a tiny fire. In turn, there are two issues with this. The first is that I can build a relatively small fire without the use of any stove, and save myself the 9 oz, or better yet I can bring 9 oz of fire starting material instead. The second issue is that the smaller of a fire that you try to make, the harder it is to actually build. </p> <p>If you are making a fire from dry, easily combustible materials like birch or pine, the job is relatively easy: you put some birch bark in the stove, light it, put some small, dry, pine twigs on top, and you have a tiny fire that you can then feed with finger-thick pieces of wood. However, try doing that in an oak and hickory forest. If you are relying on semi-dry grass as tinder and hickory sticks for fuel, starting such a tiny fire can be a nightmare. Woods like oak, hickory, and maple require high heat to burn. In a small space like this stove, where you have a limited amount of poor quality tinder, it can be almost impossible to raise the temperature high enough to ignite such woods. The problem can be overcome by building a larger fire where a sufficient amount of kindling (dry grass, feather sticks, bark, etc) can create enough heat to ignite the wood, but that is not possible in the small confines of the stove. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6pooiFdlCB0/VlxL4AjcV6I/AAAAAAAAQOM/dyDlxP7-Iqg/s1600-h/IMG_40873.jpg"><img title="IMG_4087" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="IMG_4087" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BjvVGHsOK4U/VlxL4zZwI0I/AAAAAAAAQOY/bq2UJqvb8rQ/IMG_4087_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="294"></a> </p> <p>So, ultimately, my issue with this stove is the same issue that I have with all small wood burning stoves. It is a great design, and works the way it is supposed to. However, when I can more easily build and use a fire without carrying any stove at all, why do I need the stove? Sure, in some cases it is slightly more convenient than a fire, but in many cases it is less convenient. Under less than ideal conditions it is easier to start a large fire than to build one inside a small stove like this one. Under adverse conditions it is difficult to light quickly, and can not be used inside a shelter. </p> <p>The Solo Stove Lite is a well built and designed tool, and works very well with the 900ml pot as part of a kit. However, you have to take the stove for what it is: a fun tool to use when you are enjoying yourself in the woods. In that respect, it is spectacular. There is just no way for you not to have a smile on your face when you are feeding little sticks into the stove and watching the gasification process. </p> <p>What the stove is not is a survival stove or a stove for adverse conditions. When you actually have to rely on the stove, especially when you are in a less than ideal spot, this is not the way to go. You need a stove that will work quickly every time, can be operated easily, can work under difficult conditions, and can be used inside a shelter. The Solo Stove is none of those things. </p> <p>As always, I have very mixed feelings about small wood burning stoves like this one. On one hand it is well made and a lot of fun to use. On the other hand, it occupies a strange space between a backpacking stove and an open fire, and from a practical stand point is no better than either. If I have the desire and the ability to make a fire, then I can just make a small fire; or even a large one if I needed it. If I actually need to rely on a stove because of bad weather, hypothermia, lack of material to burn, etc, then a more conventional backpacking stove (canister, white gas, alcohol, etc) is a much better option. Of course, practicality is not always the controlling factor of what we use in the woods. As long as the limitations of the stove a kept in mind, I think it can be a fun addition to any camping trip. </p> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6022646670147459511.post-70523669187532177102015-11-28T01:00:00.001-05:002015-11-28T01:00:44.043-05:00Survivorman Season 7: Survivorman Is Back, But Forgot to Tell Anyone<p>Hey guy, did you know Survivorman is back? Well, he is, but no one would blame you if you had no idea. Season 7 of Survivorman premiered earlier this month, to virtually no promotion. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Viqj63jSUkw/VllDCuFGQYI/AAAAAAAAQMA/4mgIeeJohi4/s1600-h/11064915_10153741978779704_176453184%25255B1%25255D.jpg"><img title="11064915_10153741978779704_1764531846525044112_o" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px" border="0" alt="11064915_10153741978779704_1764531846525044112_o" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3pyFbImRUgQ/VllDCxvzdwI/AAAAAAAAQME/bMQt71sOKD0/11064915_10153741978779704_176453184%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="584" height="296"></a> </p> <p>It has been airing on The Science Channel (Discovery Science) at 10pm Eastern on Saturdays. So far three episodes have aired: </p> <ul> <li>Episode 1: Fan Challenge (November 7, 2015) <li>Episode 2: Transylvania Part 1 (November 14, 2015) <li>Episode 3: Transylvania Part 2 (November 21, 2015)</li></ul> <p>I’ve been shocked by how little promotion the show has seen. Not only is it not shown on more mainstream cable networks like The Discovery Channel, being relegated to its less popular Science Channel, but there was almost no advertisement. In October I saw some promos on The Science Channel about a new season, but when I checked Les Stroud’s website, there was nothing about it. The last season listed was the silly Bigfoot chase Season 6. </p> <p>Being honest, Survivorman was never a show with big ratings. It can simply never manufacture the level of drama other survival shows pull of for purposes of ratings. Even in the early days it was being soundly beaten by the Bear Grylls fiasco Man vs. Wild. I imagine him spending a season chasing after Bogfoot didn’t do much for the appeal of the show either. I know I skipped that season. </p> <p>This new season has followed the usual pattern. It is informative in a subdued, realistic way. The first episode showed him surviving along with a fan, with Les giving him some tips. The second and third episode showed him getting lost in Transylvania. For those of us who have been in similar situations, the episodes can be interesting, but generally they are relatively slow moving. </p> <p>If you are a Survivorman fan, you can still catch the rest of the season. Again, it airs Saturdays at 10pm on The Science Channel. </p> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09366916570963904793noreply@blogger.com0