Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold Complete the First Ascent of the "Fitz Traverse"

I know this is not a climbing blog, but I think an alpine traverse like this one is well worth a look. It is certainly an impressive achievement.


The route involves climbing across the ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia. This ridge-line involves climbing Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja de l'S.


They completed the traverse in five days despite bad weather, simulclimbing most of the way. Now, if you thought you had managed to cut down your own gear list, check out what Caldwell and Hannod brought:


Camping Gear:

  • Two backpacks (35L and 25L)
  • A Black Diamond First Light Tent
  • One sleeping bag which they shared. They had no sleeping pads, but brought an insert that zipped into the sleeping bag to close it off and make it large enough for two people.
  • A stove with three fuel canisters. Since a pot is not mentioned, I’m assuming it was a combined pot/stove system like the MSR Reactor or the Jetboil.

Technical Gear:

  • One ice tool
  • Two pairs of aluminum crampons
  • One ice-screw
  • Two #2 Camalots each (I’m assuming the C4s)
  • One #3 Camalot
  • Two sets of stoppers
  • A 60m 9.8mm lead line
  • A 80m 6mm tag line
  • Three ascenders/locking pulleys (Petzl Micro-traxion, Kong Duck and Futura)
  • Six quick-draws
  • Fourteen slings

And that’s it. Now, as a result, they slept very little, and admit that they would have to reevaluate their gear for their next alpine climb, but wow!


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