US Military Modular Sleep System (MSS) Review

The US Military Modular Sleep System, or MSS for short, is a combination of sleeping components designed to allow a soldier to stay in the field under a wide range of conditions. The system is comprised of four elements. It contains two sleeping bags, a bivy bag, and a stuff sack.

The two sleeping bags and the bivy can work independently, or can be combined into one sleep system.

Many years ago, I purchased a MSS (Modular Sleep System), and used it for a very long time. In fact, I still use one of the components. I have been reluctant to do a full review of the MSS until now, for several reasons.

The first is that it is very hard to review military surplus gear, especially something like a sleeping bag. The reason is that there is no way to guarantee the condition of the product, and as a result, it is impossible to say if the particular example a person will buy would be any good. Even if you buy an unused Modular Sleep System (MSS), the way it has been stored over the years, will drastically alter its condition. During the past five years the bags might have been kept in a completely dry environment somewhere in Arizona, where they were loosely stored and taken care of; or they could have been stored in 90% humidity in Louisiana under a pile of shovels.

The second reason was that it was not a cost effective sleep system. Back when I purchased my MSS, the cost was about $350, and you had to search around to find it that cheap. For that price, you can find much better commercially available bags, so I never bothered reviewing this one.

However, things have changed. The US military has stopped using the original Modular Sleep System (MSS), and has now transitioned to a new version which can be distinguished by different colors (a lot of use of grey) and the ACU pattern. The system is largely the same, but all of the old models are currently being dumped on the market. As a result, prices have dropped to a point where they are irresistible. You can find complete used sets for as little as $50 and genuine new ones for about $150. That’s a price that is hard to beat no matter what the condition of the bags might be.

The available information on the MSS currently on the web is all over the place. You can not find two websites which give you the same stats on the system. So, I am going to try to write a comprehensive review here based on my experience with two different sets of the US Military Modular Sleep System (MSS) and the measurements I have personally made. Like I said above, condition is not consistent across the board, so your experience might be somewhat different, not to mention that sleeping bag warmth vary significantly from person to person. You know how I camp and what I use, so hopefully that will help you judge for yourself.

As I mentioned above, the US Military Modular Sleep System (MSS) is comprised of four components, two synthetic sleeping bags, a bivy bag, and a stuff sack.

Green Patrol Sleeping Bag:

The first component is the Patrol sleeping bag. It is green in color, and is intended for warm weather use. Since the specifications are all over the place, it is hard to get an official temperature rating, but based on my use, I would say that it would be between a 32F (0C) and 40F (4C). If rated as a commercial bag, it would probably be rated closer to 40F (4C).

It is the lighter of the two sleeping bags. I still use mine for three season camping. I personally use it successfully down to about 32F (0C). Of course, how you use the bag will also make a difference to how warm you stay. Back when I used to use it US military surplus closed cell foam pad, I would get cold in the bag if the temperature got anywhere near 40F (4C). When I started using a warmer pad however, I was easily able to stay comfortable down to 32F (0C) with the use of some clothing. Of course, that doesn’t make it a 32F (0C) bag according to commercial standards, but it can be made to work at those temperatures without much effort. 

According to my measurements, the green Patrol sleeping bag weighs 2lb 5oz, and compresses into a stuff sack that is 8 inches in diameter and 6 inches tall. It fits perfectly into a fully compressed Sea to Summit medium side dry bag (4.5L). The bag uses Polyguard HV insulation and has a ripstop nylon shell. 

In the above picture you can see the Patrol bag in a Sea to Summit medium size stuff sack, next to a Nalgene bottle for comparison.

Black Intermediate Cold Sleeping Bag:

The second sleeping bag in the system is the Intermediate Cold sleeping bag. It is black in color, and is intended for cold weather use. I have seen some temperature ratings floating around of –10F (-23C). I assume they were released by the military, as I find them quite optimistic. Keep in mind that the military temperature ratings usually show the temperature in which a soldier can survive for a certain period of time (usually 4 hours), not the temperature at which a person can be comfortable.

Based on my use, I would say the comfort rating of the bag is about 10F (-12C). With my bag and a closed cell foam pad, I would start getting cold around 15F (-9C). I would still be able to sleep, buy I would wake up from time to time feeling cold. With the use of a good pad, 10F (12C) I think is realistic. With extra clothing, and in a well protected space, I would be willing to push it down to 0F (-18C).

The bag is adequate, but it’s missing some features which you find on a lot of modern cold weather bags. It does not have a synch along the neck baffle, which doesn’t even go all the way around, it does not have continuous baffle tubes so that you can readjust the insulation, it does not have a water repellant shell, and the draft tube along the zipper is narrow by comparison to commercial bags.

The black Intermediate Cold bag weighs 4lb 6oz, and compresses into a stuff sack that is 8 inches in diameter and 17 inches tall. It also fits into a medium Sea to Summit compression stuff sack, but barely. It takes up about 13L. It also uses Polyguard HV insulation and has a ripstop nylon shell.

I don’t use the black Intermediate Cold bag from the US Military Modular Sleep System (MSS) anymore because it is bulky and heavy compared to other options. My Western Mountaineering Antelope MF 0F (-18C) bag weighs 2lb 7oz, and compresses to the same size as the green Patrol bag. Of course, it costs a lot more. In this instance, you get what you pay for. That being said, I used this bag for many years when winter camping, and I made it work for me.

In the above picture you can see an Intermediate Cold sized bag in a Sea to Summit medium size stuff sack, next to a Nalgene bottle for comparison.

GoreTex Bivy Bag:

The third component of the system is a GoreTex bivy bag. The bivy bag is very basic in design. It has no netting, no hoops, no pockets. It is as basic as it gets: a zipper, some button snaps to attach it to the sleeping bags, and a GoreTex enclosure. In fact, this is exactly how I like my bivy bags. Simplicity is what I look for, and I have not been able to find it in commercially available bivy bags.

Unfortunately however, as this is a product designed for the military, even though it is very basic, that does not translate to low weight. Shockingly, the bivy from the Modular Sleep System (MSS) weighs 2lb 3oz. It is almost as much as the Patrol sleeping bag.

The GoreTex is very durable and completely waterproof. You get the same condensation issues you would with any bivy, but nothing noteworthy. I used the US Military Modular Sleep System (MSS) bivy for a very long time, until one day I actually put it on a scale and measured it. The weight was prohibitive. My GoLite Shangri-La 3 tent weighs 1lb 8oz. I can not justify carrying a bivy that is heavier than a tent.

Compression Stuff Sack:

The last component of the US Military Modular Sleep System (MSS) is the compression stuff sack. It is a monstrosity, and a a poorly designed one at that. The stuff sack is intended to accommodate all of the other three components of the system. As such, it is huge. It is 14 inches in diameter and 30 inches tall. You can compress it some, but not much. That is a result of the bulkiness of the components, but also of the poor design of the stuff sack. For some reason, the compression straps are attached to the side of the stuff sack, and do not extend over the top.

As such, when you compress them, the draw cord on the top of the stuff sack loosens, and the contents gets pushed out through the opening. If you plan on using any of the components of the MSS, leave this one behind and get a better stuff sack. The stuff sack is not waterproof, and weighs 14oz.

Bring It All Together:

Those are the individual components. As I mentioned earlier, they are designed to work together as well. The black Intermediate Cold bag fits within the green Patrol bag, and attaches to it with snaps located along the zipper. Both bags then fit inside the bivy and attach to it in the same way, using snaps along the zipper. The components actually fit very well together, and considering that there are three zippers to operate, then are relatively easy to get out of, largely because the zippers can be opened by pulling apart the bags.

The bag is out of place because my dog is hiding inside.

The specifications being tossed about are that in this configuration, with all of the components used together, along with a military closed cell foam pad and standard issue thermal underwear, the rating of the system is supposed to be –30F (-34C). It’s not. Maybe those numbers can be used as some sort of extreme survival rating, but as a comfort rating it is rather optimistic.

According to my calculations, the whole system weighs 9lb 12oz. It fits in the 14x30 inch stuff sack. There is no way around it, the whole system is big and it’s heavy. In comparison, my Western Mountaineering Puma MF –25F (-32C) bag weighs 3lb 7oz, and is much warmer.

If you have been thinking about buying a US Modular Sleep System (MSS), be careful. There are a lot of knock offs out there. The GI issue ones are produced by Tennier Industries Inc, and will have the NATO NSN number. For the older woodland camo system the number should be 8465-01-445-6274. You can find it on a label sewn onto each component of the equipment, typically the same one as the cleaning and care instructions. The exact location will vary depending on the age of the bag. The one below if from my bag, which is an older model.

The new ACU pattern bags have a NSN number of 8465-01-547-2757, and from what I have seen are selling for anywhere from $400 to $600.

So, where does that leave us? Well, the US Military Modular Sleep System (MSS) is old technology, and is designed to be used by people who have no choice but to use what is given to them. It lags far behind commercially available sleeping bags. It is bulky, heavy, and the temperature ratings are very optimistic. I would never consider buying one in the $400 to $600 price range. There are just much better options out there. That being said, it is a very usable system, and if you can get it for $100, it is not a bad way to go. In that price range, you will be hard pressed to find something better. In particular, the two sleeping bags are very usable. With some creativity you can push those temperature ranges down a bit, giving you a usable four season sleep system.

I would ditch the bivy. It is just too heavy for what it is. For that weight, and for not all that much money, you can get a huge tarp with which you can build a waterproof shelter, or find a cheap tent. It will give you much better protection and comfort, for less weight.

Also, immediately throw out the stuff sack, and buy yourself a proper waterproof compression stuff sack in the appropriate size. As you saw above, the Sea to Summit medium stuff sacks are large enough for each individual bag, and the large size will fit the two bags together. 

So, the US Military Modular Sleep System (MSS) is a good buy for around $100, specifically because of the two sleeping bags that you get. It is a good way to start out camping without investing too much money. Be careful not to buy a knock off, and don’t pay too much. If you can find the bags alone, for less money, I would consider that a good way to go. 

Low Cost Ultralight Winter Backpacking Gear List

Recently I’ve posted examples compiled by others which feature ultralight gear lists. The last one I provided pointed out how an ultralight weight can be obtained at relatively low cost. It was however correctly pointed out by some readers that all of these gear lists are three season lists, i.e. for temperatures down to 32F (0C). This is not an uncommon phenomenon. Even many experienced ultralight backpackers, consider ultralight gear to be reserved for three season use. For winter use, the heavy gear once again comes out.

Now, as you have seen from my personal gear lists, it is very possible to bring the total weight of your winter gear down to nearly 10lb. For one such example, you can see the video here. Of course, it was once again pointed out that bringing the weight of winter gear down is relatively easy to do when you spend lots of money on it. That is certainly true.

So, it go me thinking; can one create a low cost, ultralight winter backpacking gear list? I figured I would play around with the offerings from some manufacturers with which I am familiar, and see what I can come up with. It would be roughly based around my Beginner’s Guide to Affordable Buschraft and Camping Gear. You may also want to check out my Beginner’s Guide to Winter Camping and Bushcraft.

The big problem that we immediately face is the one with sleeping bag insulation. All other gear transitions fairly well from three season to winter use, but the sleeping bag does not. We will need a new one. The problem is that the lower the temperature rating is, the harder it is to make a good, lightweight, and cheap bag. We can do lightweight, and we can do cheap, but not at the same time. You can get a –40F (-40F) sleeping bag that weighs just over 3lb, but it will require high quality down, and will cost nearly $1000. On the other hand, you can make a –40F (-40C) bag that costs $150, but it will weigh 8lb. There is no way around it. If you want to go out in temperatures like those, and do it with lightweight gear, you will need a high quality down bag, which will cost you. However, it is possible to find well priced, fairly lightweight bags for more moderate winter temperatures. So, for this post, I will assume that the camper wants to go out in winter in temperatures down to 0F (-18C). For many readers, this would be a more accurate representation of the winter conditions they will encounter. With some skill, those ratings can be pushed down quite a bit further as well.

Now, this is a somewhat strange exercise because people typically do not just go out and purchase a whole “winter gear kit”. Usually you use a lot of the three season gear you have already accumulated, and just supplement what you have so you can start going out in lower temperatures. In many cases, simply adding a warmer sleeping bag and some warm clothing will get you there without any additional gear. However, for purposes of this post I will pretend that we have a situation where a person who had decent experience with three season backpacking wants a brand new winter gear set up, and wants it to be low cost and light weight. Can it be done? Well, here is my crack at it. Please keep in mind that here I am only discussing the core gear that one will carry. There will be many small odds and ends that will get added to this list by each individual user.

Backpack:

My pick for a backpack is the GoLite Jam 70. This is a 70L pack, which has a functional load transferring hip belt and a foam insert for a frame. It costs $130 and weighs 1lb 15oz. Ordinarily, I would never recommend such a large volume pack which does not have a more solid frame. I typically do not like using frameless packs, or packs with foam insert frames which are over 35L and have to carry over 20lb of weight. This however, is a peculiar situation. As you will see, the final weight of our gear will be fairly low, yet the volume might end up being large. Since we are being price conscious, we will probably end up with some bulky clothing items, which can quickly fill up the pack.

If this one seems like too much volume for you, check out the Golite Jam 50. It will save you a few dollars as well as few ounces. Another good alternative is the REI Flash 62. It is more expensive at $180, and it weighs more at 2lb 14oz, but features an aluminum internal frame, which will cope much better with heavier loads.

I use both the REI Flash 62 and the Black Diamond Speed 40 pack, which weighs 3lb (2lb 10oz modified) and costs about $150. I have not recommended the Black Diamond Speed 40 because it is only a 40L pack, and with some of our gear options, it may not be large enough for all of the gear listed here.

Shelter:

For shelter I would go with the GoLite Shangri-La 2 (without the nest). Am I being sponsored by GolIte, you ask? No, it’ just that ever since they moved their distribution in house, they have cut their cost almost in half. They make good products at a good price. The Shangri-La 2 is no different. It is a floorless shelter that will stand up to just about any winter weather you can throw at it. You will probably find it deficient if you want to climb Annapurna, but for the use it will see with most of us, it will do admirably. The shelter weighs 1lb 10oz and costs $160. It gets pitched with the use of two trekking poles, which I will address later.

You can still use a tarp in winter, but I would recommend a more enclosed shelter to block the wind. Other good shelter options are the Mountain Laurel Designs DuoMid. It will set you back about $215 and weighs 1lb 6.5oz. The Black Diamond Beta Light (without nest) is also a good choice with a cost of $200 and a weight of 1lb 3oz.

I use both the GoLite Shangri-La 3 and the Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2 tents. I use the Shangri-La 3 without the nest, which drops the weight to 1lb 8oz when pitched with my trekking poles. It costs about $300. It is not a bad way to go if you need the extra room. The Direkt 2 is too expensive to recommend for this list at around $400. It weighs 2lb 8oz, and is rated as a mountaineering tent; overkill for the type of trips we are discussing here.

Sleeping Bag:

Here we come to the big obstacle. As I mentioned above, if you want to go out in extremely cold weather, you will need to spend the money on a high quality down bag, or just put up with the weighs. For our purposes however, for moderate winter temperatures, i.e 0F (-18C), I would recommend the Mountain Hardwear UltraLamina 0 sleeping bag. It is a synthetic bag, utilizing ThermalQ fill insulation. It costs $280 and weighs 3lb 3oz. It is relatively light weigh and at a good price.

Another option to consider, which prioritizes cost over weight, would be the Marmot Trestles 0 sleeping bag. It is also a synthetic fill bag, but it costs only $140. On the other hand, the low cost results in heavier weight of 5lb 8oz. If money is your primary concern, it is not a bad way to go.

If you are willing to think more outside the box, another good option is to forego the sleeping bag, and use a quilt. Enlightened Equipment and several other manufacturers make quilts which will suit the purpose. For example, the Enlightened Equipment Revelation 0F quilt with 750 fill down weighs 1lb 10oz and costs $260. I am personally reluctant to use a quilt in temperatures that low, but if you can make it work, it is a great option.

I use the Western Mountaineering Antelope MF sleeping bag. It is rated to about 0F (-18C), weighs 2lb 7oz, and costs an eye watering $575. It is an amazing bag, and I have slept in it at temperatures down to –15F  (-26C), but the cost keeps we from recommending it for this list.

Sleeping Pad:

A well insulated pad is very important during winter camping. Generally a pad with a R-value of 4 and larger is considered appropriate for winter use. My choice would be the Big Agnes Air Core Insulated Pad. It comes both in rectangular and mummy shape forms. It has an R-value of 4.1, costs $80 and weighs 1lb 4oz.

If you already have a sleeping pad with a lower R-value, a traditional way to use it in winter is to pair it up with a closed cell foam pad like the Therm-a-Rest Ridge Rest SOLite, which costs only $20, weighs 14oz, and will add additional 2.8 to the R-value of your ground insulation system.

I use the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm. The pad weighs 15oz, has an R-value of 5.7, and costs around $150. It is a great, very warm pad, but the cost is a bit too high for this list.

Pot:

My pick for a pot is the Open Country 2qt Aluminum Kettle. It is hard to beat for the weight and price. It will cost you only $16, and weighs 8.2oz.

There are many good options out there. The only thing I would say is that for winter use try to go with a post that is at least 1L in volume. During winter you will very likely have to melt snow for water, and being able to make enough water at once to fill up your water bottle is a good idea.

I use a 1L SnowPeak titanium pot. I used to use the above Open Country pot, but didn’t need that much volume. The SnowPeak pot weighs 4.7oz, and while I don’t remember the cost (they don’t make it any more) I’m sure it wasn’t cheap.

Stove:

The stove you choose for winter use is very important because, as I mentioned above, you will very likely have to melt snow for water. My choice would be the Kovea Spider. It is a remote gas canister stove, which allows for inverted canister use in liquid fuel mode. That lets you use in cold temperatures where other canister stoves will not perform well. It is a bargain at $54, and weighs only 6oz.

I would leave out alcohol stoves because while they do work in winter, they do not produce enough heat to melt snow effectively. Some upright canister stoves like Jetboil Flash and the MSR Reactor get used during winter, but you will have to come up with a way to keep that canister warm. The MSR Windpro II is a good alternative. It also allows for inverted canister use. It weighs 6.6oz and costs $100. White gas stoves like the MSR Whisperlite (in all variants) work very well in winter. One will run you about $100 and weigh around 11oz.

I use the Kovea Spider. It is not a well known stove, but I have used it in many different conditions, and it has always come through for me.

Water Bottle:

Two Gatorade bottles. They are light at 1.8oz each, cost about $3 (with the Gatorade) and have a wide enough mouth to delay freezing during winter use.

A Nalgene bottle is always a good alternative, and they even have collapsible wide mouth Nalgene bottles. A Nalgene bottle weighs 6.2oz.

I use one Nalgene bottle and one collapsible 2L wide mouth Nalgene bottle.

Water Purification:

During winter your filter is not going to be a good option for filtration. Once you get it wet, the likelihood of it freezing and getting damaged is too high. I would recommend carrying some Katadyn Micropur Chlorine Dioxide purification tablets. They cost $10 for a pack of 20, and weigh about 1oz. Since you will be most likely be melting snow for water, the tablets should get used only occasionally if you can find flowing water somewhere when the weather is warmer.

I mostly melt snow for water, but have a few of the above tablets as a back up. There are several other manufacturers who make similar products such as Aquamira. Avoid the liquid versions, as they have a tendency to freeze in cold weather.

Trekking Poles:

My pick, heavily considering cost, would be the Black Diamond First Strike trekking poles. They weigh 13.9oz, cost $55, and are rated for winter use. The down side to the poles is that they collapse only into two sections rather than three, which means they are not as compact when collapsed, but I think the $100 in savings is well worth it.

I use the Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork. They weigh 16oz and cost about $140.

Headlamp:

My pick is the Black Diamond Gizmo. It is not the brightest, but at only $20 and with a weight of 2oz, it is hard to go wrong with it. 

An alternative would be the Petzl Tikka. It costs $30 and weighs 3oz.

I use the Black Diamond Gizmo. It has covered all of my needs so far.

Knife:

Even if you don’t plan on processing any wood on your trip, a knife is something you should always have. My choice would be the Mora #2. It weighs just 3.3oz (with the sheath), and costs under $15.

I use a custom Mora #2 full tang clone made by Mark Hill.

Saw:

During winter it is also a good idea to have a saw with you in case you do want to process any firewood. Huge bon fires are not necessary if you have the proper gear, so a small saw will cover most of your needs. I would go with the Bahco Laplander, which weighs 6.2oz and costs about $30.

An identical saw is sold by Kershaw. It is marked as the 2550X. If you can find it, you may be able to get it for about $20.

I use the Bahco Laplander saw. It offers great capability for the weight.

So, where does that leave us in terms of weigh and cost? According to my math, the above list gives us a weight of 10lb 11.2oz, and a total cost of $741. Add a few accessories and necessary small items like a map and compass, fire kit, first aid kit, small repair kit, etc (check out my pocket carry kit video for ideas here), and we can say that we have a 12lb gear list for about $750. If you go with the Marmot sleeping bag instead of the Mountain Hardwear one, you can bring the cost down to about $600, but the weight will go up to 14lb 8oz. It may not be a bad tradeoff. Shopping around for discounts will easily drop that price down even further.

And lastly, clothing for these conditions is not all that tricky. It will largely be your three season clothing with the addition of a big puffy jacket on the outside, along with a hat and gloves. If you are still unsure, the most cost effective option is fleece. It is bulky, but you can get fleece shirts for $10 at Wal-Mart. The 70L pack from the list should be more than capable of dealing with multiple fleece layers. For more of my thoughts on witer clothing, check out Winter Clothing – The Layering Theory Revisited.

All of the above gear will function fine in even lower temperatures. The main change you would have to make is to invest in a good sleeping bag rated for the temperature you are likely to encounter. I use the Western Mountaineering Puma MF –25F (-32C) bag. It weighs 3lb 7oz, and costs $825.

A common urge for many people when buying a winter sleeping bags is to go for the warmest bag on the market. Many times people end up with extremely expensive –40F (-40C) bags that are rated for arctic use and cost over $1000. In my experience such an approach is often unnecessary. Look at the realistic temperatures you are likely to encounter, and get a bag appropriate for those conditions. 

Anyway, this has been my attempt to offer an affordable unltalight winter gear list for temperatures down to 0F (-18C). The result is a gear list that weighs 10lb 11.2oz and costs $741. You will certainly need to add other small items and personal gear, and for more specific conditions, you will need additional gear like snowshoes, crampons, ice tools, etc. I do think however that this is a good starting point. Hope it has been of some use.

Marooned – New Survival Series on the Discovery Channel

Last night at 10pm, after the premier of the new season of Dual Survival on the Discovery Channel, a new show aired, called Marooned. It is a series featuring Ed Stafford. You may remember him as the guy who walked the length of the Amazon river, or more likely from his show Naked and Marooned, or Naked Castaway as it was aired in the US. Just like on that show, this new one, Marooned, focuses on Ed Stafford being dropped off in a remote location with absolutely nothing (including no clothing), and leaving him there to survive for 10 days. There is no camera crew. Ed has to film himself in a manner similar to Survivorman.

Last night’s episode saw Ed stranded on a small island in the Okavango Delta in Botswana. In many respects, the show was very interesting. In the 10 days he was able to make a fire, build a shelter from the rain, make shoes, and even set a few traps. I like watching Ed Stafford, and he reminds me of the early days of Survivorman, when Les was still excited to do the shows.

The downside of the show, at least for me, is that it is filled with comments about how he is setting himself up to “thrive” long term in that environment. Instead of focusing on the very admirable task of successfully making it through the 10 days with no tools, he has to end the show with grandiose statements about how he has made it a long way towards thriving long term in that environment, as he had set out to do from the beginning. I don’t know what it is with the obsession Brits have with “thriving” in the wilderness; perhaps they have all grown up watching too much Ray Mears, who likes to toss around the phrase. The result is unfortunate, naively optimistic, and quite misleading.

Why do I say that? Well…

First, Ed was intentionally dropped off in that area at the back end of the dry season. When he tried and succeeded in making a hand drill fire on the first day there, the materials he was using had not seen any moisture in many months. I would be interested to see the task completed two months into the rainy season, or him repeating the task if he had remained there during the rainy season and his fire had gone out.

Second, his conclusion that he had come a long way to long term “thriving” was largely based on him finding a handful of nuts and stealing a corner of old honeycomb from a bee hive on the last day of the show. Oh, and he spent a day making three traps that didn’t catch anything. Understandably, his clams about thriving are rather perplexing, considering that all of the food that he found probably adds up to about a third of a day’s worth of calories, spread out over a 10 day period. His starvation was evident as he was very lethargic by the last day…and that’s not the result of all of the thriving.

Third, during the entire time he was there, Ed was drinking unpurified water from the marsh surrounding the island, which was densely inhabited by hippopotamus. It is an absolute certainly that there is hippo dung in that water and that it contains a whole range of pathogens, not the lest of which is Giardia. If he had stayed on the island for another week or two, he would have been dropped by one of those pathogens, and would have spend the rest of his time there with severe diarrhea and vomiting, preventing him from doing absolutely anything.

So, the claims about him being able to thrive there long term are quite ridiculous based on what actually happened on the show, and detract from the actual value of the show, which demonstrates quite realistic and good quality survival over a 10 day period.

If you can get past the “thriving” delusions on the show, it is quite good, and worth a look. It looks like it will be airing on the Discovery Channel on Wednesdays at 10pm.

Under $350 Ultralight Backpacking Kit

There is a concern often expressed by people that if they want to reduce the weight of their gear, they must spend huge amounts of money. Those concerns are certainly justified, as many of the ultralight gear lists obtain maximum performance through very expensive, top of the line gear.

It doesn’t have to be that way however. The current state of the market is such that by removing unnecessary gear, and making some smart choices, one can easily create a very light weight kit on a budget.

You may have seen my Beginners Guide to Affordable Bushcraft and Camping Gear, where I was focusing more on low cost than low weight, but the resulting kit was under 13 lb, including a hatchet and saw, and cost a bit over $400 with all of the small accessories.

Well, Lightweight Backpacking has put together another gear list, titled Under $350 Ultralight Backpacking Kit, which I think is well worth a look.

You can follow the above link to the full article. I probably wouldn’t have made all of the same choices. For example, I would prefer a DIY alcohol stove over an Esbit one, and I would rather have a tarp than a one person tent, but overall, the gear choices are solid both in terms of weight and cost.

I think the choices for backpack, sleeping bag and sleeping pad are excellent, and surprisingly cost effective. Of course, this is not the and all and be all gear list, but it goes to show that with some careful gear selection, and by leaving behind a lot of unnecessary equipment, the weight of your pack can be brought down significantly without braking the bank.